'McHenry Hohnen is an absolute' star in Margaret River' AH: 2022 Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard

'McHenry Hohnen is an absolute' star in Margaret River' AH: 2022 Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard

'McHenry Hohnen is an absolute' star in Margaret River' AH: 2022 Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard
 
The range of Chardonnays from 2022, in particular, is extraordinary.
Angus Hughson, vinous.com
 
McHenry Hohnen, Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard 2022
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond


Having just tasted a range of McHenry-Hohnen Chardonnay here in the office this morning, I feel compelled to offer the outstanding 2022 Hazel’s Vineyard Chardonnay which stood out to us here for its incredible purity of fruit. There is a breadth and depth allied to a clarity and freshness. The wealth of yellow citrus fruit was glorious, offset by a subtle nutty note and a light oak touch. But it is the core of fruit that dominates and lingers long. 

The Hohnen name is synonymous with quality and innovation in Australian and New Zealand wine. The Hohnen family were the owners of one of the early successes of Margaret River, Cape Mentelle, and it was David Hohnen who established Cloudy Bay, the estate that so significantly opened the wine world’s eyes to the quality that was possible in New Zealand. The McHenry family were vineyard owners who sold their fruit to Cape Mentelle in those early days but have expanded their holdings through canny purchases of excellent sites. As McHenry-Honen, they are now focused on site-specific wines and their range of single vineyard Chardonnay is scintillating. 

As Angus Hughson writes: Today, founder Murray McHenry leads the team with assistance from Head Winemaker Jacopo Dalli Cani, among a handful of other top wineries. Dalli Cani's focus on vineyard sustainability and biodynamics has helped him weave his magic to craft stylish, subtle and age-worthy wines. The range of Chardonnays from 2022, in particular, is extraordinary.

Hazel’s Vineyard is the most southerly of their vineyards with a north-facing aspect and with soils of an ironstone gravel over a clay base, such a soil structure providing good drainage and regulating water supply to the vines. As mentioned by Hughson above, viticulture is biodynamic and minimal intervention is key. This certainly translates to a purity that we witnessed ourselves in the glass today.

This is a magnificent expression of Margaret River Chardonnay and, at this price, represents incredible value for a wine of such outstanding quality. I urge you to take a case. I do not believe you will be disappointed.

My thoughts above. The notes of Angus Hughson and Erin Larkin below.

McHenry Hohnen, Chardonnay Hazel's Vineyard 2022
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond

96 points, Angus Hughson, vinous.com, May 2024
The approachable yet finely tuned 2022 Chardonnay Hazel's Vineyard draws you in with highly complex yet understated aromas of citrus flowers and peach stone against a background of gently toasty oak. Crisp and vibrant, a strong core acidity drives searing focus and mineral intensity through to an extremely long finish. The 2022 is so young, with plenty to look forward to. Drink 2030-2038

93+ points, Erin Larkin, robertparker.com, July 2024
The 2022 Hazel's Vineyard Chardonnay leads with creamy crushed and salted nuts, yellow peach and stewed apples. In the mouth, the wine is all about curry leaves and a hint of marzipan, candied almonds and pastry. There is also a hint of underripe pear. In some ways, it is archetypal Margaret River Chardonnay: powerful and yet tightly coiled, with firm acidity, populated by rich fruit and long. The acidity that sits on the back of the palate is fierce, and it serves to rip through the fruit and linger through the finish. I'd say that this wine will be better in a few years, which does make me sound like a broken record. But they really do blossom five years after harvest—so, circa 2027. For now, many will drink and love this, but it will be better! 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2025-2036

Please let us know of your interest.

Richard

richard.omahony@atlasfinewines.com

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2016 Chapelle d'Ausone - at near release price

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