Looking for great, non-bank breaking white Burgundy?
Look no further than this Chassagne
Chassagne with great precision and persistence on the finish: elegance and class.
Neal Martin, vinous.com
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, En Virondot, Domaine Marc Morey
£390 per 6 bottle case in bond
Here is the short version…
Finding value in white Burgundy is challenging, particularly 1er Cru, as prices escalate quite quickly.
This wine has become a mainstay for us in recent years being a Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet at sub £400 per case.
And while I am not keen on ‘best ever’ monikers, this is certainly the finest vintage of this wine I have yet tasted.
The 2022 is stunning, with a classical sense of firmness in evidence that used to be typical of Chassagne.
In short, at this price point, Virondot 2022 from Marc Morey is a great buy – it is utterly delicious.
Here is the longer version…
Domaine Marc Morey manage 8.5 hectares of vineyard including a tiny parcel of Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru. However, the mainstays of their range are a bevy of well-situated Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, including Les Caillerets, Les Chenevottes, Les Morgeots and of course, En Virondot.
En Virondot is an interesting vineyard, which lies close to Les Caillerets to the south-west of the village. It is a separate ‘island’, not adjoining any other Premier Cru. The vines are 30 years old and lie at an altitude a little more elevated than all other Chassagne vineyards. The name ‘Virondot’ indicates that the vines on this site were originally planted in curved rows – in old French, ‘un virandiot’.
I have always said that this wine seems to show well at an early stage, certainly in vintages like 2019, in contrast to the comments of some critics. I think that is still the case as the fruit fans out on both nose and palate with time in the glass. That said, the 2022 doesn’t show in such a bold manner, in fact the impression is much more classical, which is at odds with the hot vintage conditions. Those that love Chassagne-Montrachet for that firm mineral backbone should take note as this wine will satisfy that itch in a way that many recent vintage white Burgundy, made in a looser knit style, fail to do.
This vintage shows a terrific lime marmalade character, orange zest to the finish, very fine tuned and detailed. A complex stony quality infuses the acidity that adds definition to the rich fruit. As always, there are hints of yellow plum to the finish, yet these are held in check by such a mouthwatering minerally acidity. This is at once inviting yet suggests it has more to give – one of those wines where you find it hard to resist, though you know it could be fascinating with age. Once more, a great glass of Chassagne with refinement and power. If you wish to drink this, early make sure you decant, and place back in the fridge for an hour before serving – you will be in for a treat. And if you have more patience, this is a sure bet for five to seven years cellarage.
Please see below for Neal Martin’s note, complete with one of his higher scores for this wine.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Virondot, Domaine Marc Morey et Fils
£390 per 6 bottle case in bond
93-95 points, Neal Martin, vinous.com
The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Virondot 1er Cru is habitually one of the Domaine's strongest cards, though this year, it is challenged by the brilliant Caillerets. Still, you cannot deny the nose has excellent mineralité and complexity, with touches of chai and chamomile complementing the yellow fruit. The palate is very well-balanced, with great power and precision. Wonderful acidity is interwoven into this Chassagne with great precision and persistence on the finish: elegance and class. Drink 2025-2045.
Please let us know of your interest.
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com