JJ Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Spätlese 2015 12x75cl

93 Points, David Schildknecht, 2018-2040 Vinous A faint, yeasty veil needs to clear. Ripe apple and quince are garlanded in honeysuckle and lily and met by a hint of mango more predictable at this level of ripeness than were the tropical effusions harbored by the corresponding Kabinett. Strikingly creamy as well as delicate, the midpalate adds bright lime juiciness, apple seed piquancy and bittersweet vanilla bean, all of which go on to inform a lusciously ripe yet vibrant and refreshing finish. This is lovely, but it does illustrate what the Prüms consider typical youthful Wehlener Sonnenuhr behavior, insofar as it’s not quite as expressive or possessed of the same intrigue today as are the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr or (despite its initially veiled nose) the Graacher Himmelreich. (There was also an auctioned Himmelreich Auslese Goldkapsel, but I have not had opportunity to taste it.)Review Date: 01 Jun 17