Whilst the harvest was early at Drouhin-Laroze, as elsewhere, Caroline Drouhin said that they will rack two months later than usual and bottle a month later too as the intensity and density of the fruit needs more time. Plenty of time will be needed in bottle too, but the Drouhin-Laroze wines are packed with ripe, healthy fruit and should develop beautifully, such is the natural balance in each wine.
Scented fresh, mashed forest fruit on the nose, but with a welcome strictness and structure. On the palate there is a richly textured, ripe, fresh dark berry fruit and a touch of spice. There is an overall sense of freshness and energy here with fine mineral tannins returning at the end to give a frame to the clean fruit. Drink 2023-2030
2020 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze SOLD OUT
£840 per 6 bottle case in bond
Healthy ripe fruit on the nose – strawberries, cherries and a floral violet note. While there is the weight and intensity that befits a Grand Cru, this is reined in here with a flowing elegance and silky textures. The fruit health is clear and the floral notes come back on the long mineral-laden finish of excellent persistence. Drink 2027-2040
2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
£720 per 6 bottle case in bond
Incredible density and intensity of ripe dark fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and full while also retaining a freshness and precision so seemingly typical of the vintage. This is the only wine in the range that is fully destemmed, as Caroline says that the natural power of Vougeot is diminished by whole bunch or stem use. This certainly does not lack opulence and power. It is a glorious mouthful of wine that is marked by exuberant, fresh, clean, healthy fruit. Drink 2027-2040
Burgundy 2024Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges I have never quite understood why they don't sell for more than they do given the fine quality.Allen Meadows, burghound.com
The 2024 vintage was brutal for the Lécheneauts. Brutal because of the hand Mother Nature dealt. Brutal too because they chose the pain of discipline to avoid the pain of regret. The outcome being that, across the range, the average loss of production was a shocking 80%.
They produced no old vine Nuits St Georges, Au Chouillet, nor any of their Premier Cru Aux Argillas, all the fruit saved from those two vineyards going into the village Nuits-St Georges. Even with these additions to boost it, there were only SIX barrels of Nuits-St Georges (village) produced in total compared to a more usual forty-five!! That there is so very little of their calling-card cuvée highlights, yet again, the Lécheneaut family's total commitment to quality. They did the work in the vineyards to counter the mildew provoked by the near constant rain through the growing season. They removed affected fruit. They then vinified sensitively.
The result is a set of wines, miniscule in volume, but showing fruit purity, fine tannins and, most importantly, beautiful freshness, fluidity and balance. These will be for drinking over the short to medium term, over which time they will provide the drinking pleasure we have all come to associate with the wines of Domaine Lécheneaut.Domaine Lécheneaut, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2024£120 per 6 bottle case in bondRipe fresh red and blue berry fruit on the nose. This fruit purity and freshness comes through to the palate with an appealing gently juicy quality and a fine, stony mineral aspect on the finish. Drink 2026-2030 (ROM)Lécheneaut et Fils, Marsannay, Les Récilles 2024£180 per 6 bottle case in bondA new wine to the Lécheneaut range this Marsannay comes from 60-year-old vines in organically certified vineyards, for which the viticulture is done entirely by the Lécheneauts. This stood out in my November tasting at the Domaine for its ripe and healthy, soft-skinned red and black fruit nose and palate. Fine purity and good mid-palate volume all wrapped up in fairly silky tannins and showing good length. A really enjoyable and nicely balanced red Burgundy at a very fair price. Drink 2027-2032 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Gevrey-Chambertin 2024£225 per 6 bottle case in bondInitially closed but with a lovely forest fruit purity beneath. Floral notes emerge with air. The palate is compact and shows good power and presence. Tannins are evident but not aggressive. Tight, compact, firm, but not austere. A typically fine Gevrey village from the Lécheneauts. Drink 2029-2036 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Morey-St Denis 2024£210 per 6 bottle case in bondElegant pure blue fruit on the nose. The palate shows a welcome spicy-peppery touch which cuts the fruit and confirms the Morey origins. Subtle juicy dimension and a mouth-wateringly saline finish. The tannins are fine the there is such lovely harmony. Drink 2028-2034 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Chambolle-Musigny 2024£250 per 6 bottle case in bondThis Chambolle-Musigny contains everything that was harvested by the Lécheneauts from their holdings in Chambolle, including the premier cru fruit, which was insufficient to allow them to make the Premier Cru Borniques. Even still they made only 3 barrels. Quite reticent on the nose this gradually opens to show its typical floral red fruit. The chalky mineral quality on the palate is well-judged and there is fine balance and length with good tension coming through on a finish that shows good length. Drink 2028-2034 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges 2024£210 per 6 bottle case in bondWith neither the Premier Cru Aux Argillas nor the old vine cuvée of Au Chouillet made in 2024, the village Nuits has benefitted from some even higher calibre fruit than usual. And it shows. Soft-skinned, ripe dark and red cherry fruit on the nose. Pure, ripe fruit attack. Beautifully cushioned and textured. The fruit spreads across the palate, coating yet caressing. The finish is taut and mineral, giving an excellent sense of focus and direction. Drink 2027-2034 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits- St Georges 1er Cru, Les Pruliers 2024£360 per 6 bottle case in bondThere is a broad swathe of red fruit underpinned by mineral precision and direction. Really tensile and persistent. Pure, precise and unusually silky for this vineyard as well as more open and expressive. The Lécheneauts demonstrate their craft here. Drink 2030-2040 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru, Les Damodes 2024£360 per 6 bottle case in bondClassically explosive, ripe, broad, almost exotic on the nose. Then the palate is tight and compact with a tannin presence; quite a surprise after the nose and for the vineyard. With a little time, the harmony and texture of Damodes reasserts itself. This should evolve well. Drink 2030-2040 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2024£540 per 3 bottle case in bondNot tasted due to tiny volume
Burgundy 2024Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
The style and quality of wine produced, initially by Sylvain but now already for more than a decade, by Sebastien Cathiard are rightly revered and consistently lauded. The fruit shows such purity, the textures are sublime. Every year there is a clamour for these beautiful wines.
Of course, the great bonus for fans of good Burgundy is that Sebastien has so significantly enlarged the range of wines available, and, what is more, at the more affordable end of the spectrum.
As we have written before, the hills above Nuits-St Georges have become an area of keen interest to many forward-thinking producers. Here they can craft wines that retain a cooler fruit profile in the warmer conditions, while in wetter vintages, such as 2024, there are distinct drainage benefits. Sebastien applies his skill and expertise in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, focussing on terroir expression and differentiation. The straight Hautes Côtes de Nuits, is almost entirely from the cru Pièce Dame Marie, a single vineyard in the centre of Villars-La-Faye, where Sebastien lives. It cannot be labelled as such since it also contains a tiny amount of wine from two other vineyards. All three of these parcels have deep soils with a reasonably high proportion of clay, which lends itself to a 'gourmand' style of wine - flowing, harmonious, pure fruited.
Chaumes has a small amount of clay but predominantly limestone soils and is situated on a plateau above the stretch of some of the greatest Nuits-St Georges Premiers Crus from Les Pruliers to Les Saint Georges itself.
Les Dames Huguette is an extension of Chaumes, where it begins to drop down the slope to these same Nuits-St Georges vineyards. The soils of Les Dames Huguette are poorer and thinner giving wines of pronounced mineral tension.
In short, these three wines are a testament to the long-standing Cathiard commitment to exposing the character of a given vineyard and expressing it in wines of immense pleasure and drinkability with all the hallmark pristine fruit and silky texture we have come to expect.
A final point, we are happy to have been able to reduce the prices of these above-mentioned wine in the 2024 vintage.Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Bourgogne Rouge 2024£225 per 6 bottle case in bondBright red fruit nose. Balanced, fresh, pure and vibrant on the palate and finish. Drink 2027-2030Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2024£235 per 6 bottle case in bondElegant, pure fruit. Good grip on the finish. Nice balance. Drink 2027-2032Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Aux Chaumes 2024£240 per 6 bottle case in bondGood fruit freshness and vibrancy. Broader and with good weight and grip on the palate, showing the clay component of the Chaumes terroir. Excellent balance and length to the perfectly ripe and healthy Pinot fruit. This will give excellent short to medium term drinking pleasure. Drink 2027-2033Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Les Dames Huguette 2024£250 per 6 bottle case in bondThere is a juicy quality to the fruit on the front and mid-palate which then is counter-balanced by the limestone terroir exerting its strong white stone grip on a long finish. Again, the balance here is excellent and the fruit so pure that this will give great drinking pleasure. Drink 2027-2033Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Gevrey-Chambertin 2024£450 per 6 bottle case in bondTight, concentrated nose of dark berry fruit. Good density on the palate. Fine but present tannins. Very classic, with pure ripe fruit persistence to perfectly balance the structure. Drink 2028-2036Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 2024£510 per 6 bottle case in bondQuite closed on the nose and tight on the attack but opening gradually on the palate to intimate what it will become. The tannins are silky and there is good freshness on the balanced finish. Drink 2028-2036Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru 2024£1,020 per 6 bottle case in bondThis blend of the two Premiers Crus of Thorey and Murgers has been necessitated by the volumes yielded in the vintage. This is roughly half and half of the two. The nose and attack currently show the elegance and tension of Thorey, while the mid-palate and finish show more of the density and tannin presence of Murgers. This is really well crafted and shows a fine balance. Beautifully textured too. Drink 2028-2038Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Aux Malconsorts 2024£2,850 per 6 bottle case in bondCurrently quite closed on the nose. The power and presence of Malconsorts combine with a textural depth and evident complexity. The tannins are mineral and fine supporting a wonderful concentration of peppery dark fruit. Long stony mineral persistence. Typically fine, textured and harmonious. Drink 2030-2040Please also be aware that these wines are only available to us in very, very limited quantities and that demand outstrips supply by a significant percentage each year, even before we consider the dramatically reduced production levels in this vintage. Nevertheless, please do let us know of your interest and we will do our best to help
2024 Burgundy: Domaine Morey-Coffinet - 'a great range of wines in 2024' JM
2024 BurgundyDomaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet A great range of wines in 2024, understated yet with fine backbones.Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com, December 2025
Without doubt Morey-Coffinet continues to impress with its crystalline whites and its flowing, beautifully balanced reds all of which express their vineyards with an effortless grace. The 2024s show very well. As I have written before, behind Thibault's calm and serene demeanour there is unmistakeable passion and an obsessive drive to produce wines that reflect and communicate a land respected. These are exceptional wines and continue to offer exceptional value for Burgundy of this quality.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet was established in 1980 by Thibault's father Michel, who was married to Fabienne Coffinet. She herself was from the combined winemaking families of Cecile Pillot and Fernand Coffinet. Some combined heritage then! The estate now covers 9 hectares almost exclusively within Chassagne-Montrachet itself. Under Thibault Morey, viticulture has become increasingly respectful and sensitive, with organic certification granted in 2018 and biodynamic principles espoused since 2015. Much of the ploughing is done by horse - or by electric tractor. Sheep roam the vineyards after harvest in the autumn. Most notably in the 2024 vintage, Thibault encouraged grass growth between rows in order to provide competition for the water that fell in this year. This approach seems to have been successful with fruit quality high and yields remarkably good in the vintage, nearer the norm and higher than many other producers. In terms of wine-making, the fruit undergoes a long, slow pressing with minimal sulphur use before fermentation and ageing in generally larger oak vessels and in amphorae. Everything is done to maintain fruit purity, to maximise vineyard expression and to retain elegance and tension.REDSDomaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 2024£230 per 6 bottle case in bondFloral red cherry fruit on the nose leads into a flowing, clean-fruited palate. Lovely balance and finishing with a gentle grip of fine tannins. Drink 2026-2031
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Clos St Jean 2024£375 per 6 bottle case in bondGood intensity and concentration at the core – as one would expect from this excellent premier cru at the top of the hill behind the Morey-Coffinet house itself. Intense red fruit, juicy and with good breadth. A wonderful core of fruit on the mid-palate, with red cherry and raspberry notes. Pleasing mashed berry fruit persistence and grip. Fine, silky tannins and mineral energy in evidence with fruit returning at the end. Drink 2027-2034
WHITES
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 2024£295 per 6 bottle case in bondAn enticing nose of creamy peach and nectarine fruit. Citrus vibrancy too. The core shows a juicy freshness, and the finish is beautifully vibrant and fresh but retaining that juicy fruit quality and a subtle creamy quality to the texture. Such fine balance and harmony. Drink 2026-2031
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Houillères 2024£335 per 6 bottle case in bondGood concentration of peach and citrus fruit on the nose leads into a palate of marked freshness and juicy-fruited length. What lifts this up a level is the fine mineral tension that carries the wine to the finish and creates a very fine sense of harmony. Drink 2027-2034
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, En Cailleret 2024£420 per 6 bottle case in bondThe cool fresh fruit on the nose is offset and counterbalanced by a stony dimension to the palate. This beautiful combination of cool ripe fruit and powerful mineral energy give a Chassagne Premier Cru that is both mineral and refined. Long and very fine. Drink 2028-2036
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, La Romanée 2024£435 per 6 bottle case in bondHere there is a notably mouth-watering quality to the fruit that is still nevertheless in a cooly ripe style. This is very classic and restrained but with a healthy core of fruit underpinned by a real sense of minerality and a fine persistence. Drink 2028-2036
Maison Morey-Coffinet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Combettes 2024£595 per 6 bottle case in bondThis is the last vintage of this wine that will be made. A vineyard that is known to benefit from a little more rain - not something it was short of in 2024, but a successful vintage for Thibault - giving a Puligny of depth and breadth while retaining a sense of direction and energy. Drink 2028-2038 Another very fine set of wines from Thibault Morey and Domaine Morey-Coffinet. Looking forward to hearing from you.
Richardrichard.omahony@atlasfinewines.com
