Burgundy 2024
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges
I have never quite understood why they don't sell for more than they do given the fine quality.
Allen Meadows, burghound.com
The 2024 vintage was brutal for the Lécheneauts. Brutal because of the hand Mother Nature dealt. Brutal too because they chose the pain of discipline to avoid the pain of regret. The outcome being that, across the range, the average loss of production was a shocking 80%.
They produced no old vine Nuits St Georges, Au Chouillet, nor any of their Premier Cru Aux Argillas, all the fruit saved from those two vineyards going into the village Nuits-St Georges. Even with these additions to boost it, there were only SIX barrels of Nuits-St Georges (village) produced in total compared to a more usual forty-five!!
That there is so very little of their calling-card cuvée highlights, yet again, the Lécheneaut family's total commitment to quality. They did the work in the vineyards to counter the mildew provoked by the near constant rain through the growing season. They removed affected fruit. They then vinified sensitively.
The result is a set of wines, miniscule in volume, but showing fruit purity, fine tannins and, most importantly, beautiful freshness, fluidity and balance. These will be for drinking over the short to medium term, over which time they will provide the drinking pleasure we have all come to associate with the wines of Domaine Lécheneaut.
Domaine Lécheneaut, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2024
£120 per 6 bottle case in bond
Ripe fresh red and blue berry fruit on the nose. This fruit purity and freshness comes through to the palate with an appealing gently juicy quality and a fine, stony mineral aspect on the finish. Drink 2026-2030 (ROM)
Lécheneaut et Fils, Marsannay, Les Récilles 2024
£180 per 6 bottle case in bond
A new wine to the Lécheneaut range this Marsannay comes from 60-year-old vines in organically certified vineyards, for which the viticulture is done entirely by the Lécheneauts. This stood out in my November tasting at the Domaine for its ripe and healthy, soft-skinned red and black fruit nose and palate. Fine purity and good mid-palate volume all wrapped up in fairly silky tannins and showing good length. A really enjoyable and nicely balanced red Burgundy at a very fair price. Drink 2027-2032 (ROM)
Domaine Lécheneaut, Gevrey-Chambertin 2024
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
Initially closed but with a lovely forest fruit purity beneath. Floral notes emerge with air. The palate is compact and shows good power and presence. Tannins are evident but not aggressive. Tight, compact, firm, but not austere. A typically fine Gevrey village from the Lécheneauts. Drink 2029-2036 (ROM)
Domaine Lécheneaut, Morey-St Denis 2024
£210 per 6 bottle case in bond
Elegant pure blue fruit on the nose. The palate shows a welcome spicy-peppery touch which cuts the fruit and confirms the Morey origins. Subtle juicy dimension and a mouth-wateringly saline finish. The tannins are fine the there is such lovely harmony. Drink 2028-2034 (ROM)
Domaine Lécheneaut, Chambolle-Musigny 2024
£250 per 6 bottle case in bond
This Chambolle-Musigny contains everything that was harvested by the Lécheneauts from their holdings in Chambolle, including the premier cru fruit, which was insufficient to allow them to make the Premier Cru Borniques. Even still they made only 3 barrels. Quite reticent on the nose this gradually opens to show its typical floral red fruit. The chalky mineral quality on the palate is well-judged and there is fine balance and length with good tension coming through on a finish that shows good length. Drink 2028-2034 (ROM)
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges 2024
£210 per 6 bottle case in bond
With neither the Premier Cru Aux Argillas nor the old vine cuvée of Au Chouillet made in 2024, the village Nuits has benefitted from some even higher calibre fruit than usual. And it shows. Soft-skinned, ripe dark and red cherry fruit on the nose. Pure, ripe fruit attack. Beautifully cushioned and textured. The fruit spreads across the palate, coating yet caressing. The finish is taut and mineral, giving an excellent sense of focus and direction. Drink 2027-2034 (ROM)
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits- St Georges 1er Cru, Les Pruliers 2024
£360 per 6 bottle case in bond
There is a broad swathe of red fruit underpinned by mineral precision and direction. Really tensile and persistent. Pure, precise and unusually silky for this vineyard as well as more open and expressive. The Lécheneauts demonstrate their craft here. Drink 2030-2040 (ROM)
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru, Les Damodes 2024
£360 per 6 bottle case in bond
Classically explosive, ripe, broad, almost exotic on the nose. Then the palate is tight and compact with a tannin presence; quite a surprise after the nose and for the vineyard. With a little time, the harmony and texture of Damodes reasserts itself. This should evolve well. Drink 2030-2040 (ROM)
Domaine Lécheneaut, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2024
£540 per 3 bottle case in bond
Not tasted due to tiny volume