Tasting Note
96 Points, Antonio Galloni, 2028-2056 Vinous The 2016 Barolo Riserva Bussia Vigna Mondoca is a powerful, brooding, old-school wine. Leather, melted road tar, rose petal, anise, macerated dark cherry, plum and spicecake give the 2016 its super-traditional profile. Swaths of tannin wrap it all together in a dense, strapping Barolo that will need a number of years to become approachable. For readers who want to know what Barolo is all about, well, this is it. Don't miss it. Review Date: 01 Feb 22
About the Producer
With a rich history dating back to the end of the 18th century, Poderi Oddero is one of the oldest established houses in Barolo, situated in the commune of La Morra. In 2005, Giacomo Oddero and his brother Luigi split the estate, and Luigi departed to create wines in his own name. When we first visited, and after sampling their exceptional Brunate and Rocche di Castiglione wines, it was clear this famous estate was on a steady path; we have followed them closely ever since. Their wines have risen to prominence under the stewardship of Mariacristina Oddero, Giacomo’s daughter, ably assisted by her niece Isabella and son Pietro. One of the keys to Oddero’s success is its enviable holdings in some of the most heralded Barolo vineyards such as Vigna Rionda, Rocche di Castiglione, Brunate, Villero, and a more recently acquired small parcel in Monvigliero. The total vineyard area is 35 hectares, with 16.5 hectares of Nebbiolo. Since 2008 they have followed organic practices and now all their Nebbiolo vineyards are certified organic. The wines are made in a reassuringly traditional style that allows vineyard typicity to be clearly expressed. This estate is garnering broader recognition; their wines show the excellent purity and definition and stylistically, they have broad appeal to followers of great traditional Barolo. Oddero has been a fascinating property to track; with quality higher today more than ever before, and there is exquisite consistency across the board, particularly in recent vintages since 2016 marking a turning point.
