Tasting Note
92-94 Points, Stephen Tanzer, Vinous (tasted from barrique from a mix of clay and chalk soil; also from the Gavarini vineyard) Good medium-deep red. Complex aromas of redcurrant, plum, mocha, minerals and nutty oak, all lifted by an exotic whiff of orange peel. Superconcentrated, rich, minerally and impressive, with a more serious structure and a finer grain than the estate's other 2004 Barolos. Very impressive, mineral-driven wine that finishes with gripping tannins, juicy lift and wonderful lingering perfume. Gianluca Grasso, who started here in 1996, essentially invented this wine, which is now aged for at least 40 months in all-new barriques (the '01 remained in barrel for 33 months). The maceration lasts for 40 days, including 15 to 20 for the fermentation itself. This wine is my son, said Gianluca. Our other two Barolos are my brothers: they're my father's wines.Review Date: 01 Nov 07
About the Producer
Situated in Monforte d’Alba, the estate extends over 42 hectares of land of which 18 are dedicated to vineyards. They started making wine in 1978 from plantings of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto. Their production sits at a maximum of just 90,000 bottles annually, which they proclaim allows them to maintain meticulous control and care throughout the production process. Since taking over from his father Elio, winemaker Gianluca Grasso has worked tirelessly to bring about added refinement and consistency in the wines of Elio Grasso. We have been visiting the family since the 2001 vintage and have known their wines since the 1996 vintage. In the last decade they have lifted the bar for quality hugely. As with a number of other Piemonte estates, they have benefited from an unprecedented run of high-quality vintages, dictated first and foremost by the weather during the growing season, but equally Gianluca’s deft hand in winemaking has brought about greater purity and nuance in the estate’s wines. Gianluca and his father Elio, have always stressed the winemaker’s adage that wine is made in the vineyard. Gianluca is obsessive about determining the perfect moment to harvest and is not averse to taking risks in the vineyard.
