Domaine Patrick Javillier, Meursault, Clos du Cromin 2022 6x75cl

87 Points, Neal Martin, 2026-2034 Vinous The 2022 Meursault Clos du Cromin has a tight bouquet that remains buttoned down however much I aerate my glass. This ain't comin' out to play. The palate is well balanced, with a fine line of acidity—again, quite backward, and I would like to see it develop more complexity on the finish. I will be parsimonious with my assessment for now. Tasted at merchants' 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.Review Date: 30 Jan 24

Domaine Javillier, in Meursault, dates back to 1945 but really made its name when Patrick Javillier took over the running from his father in 1974, building the vineyard holdings up from their original two hectares to the current eleven. Patrick built a loyal following over several decades for wines that invariably show beautiful balance and approachability, wines of pure, pleasurable enjoyment, yet wines that also speak of their terroir. His work is now carried on by his daughter Marion and his son-in-law, Pierre-Emmanuel Lamy, who have been bringing refinements and improvements, without altering the fundamental and appealing style, for more than a decade already. These continue to be wines that should be on your radar. The Cuvée des Forgets epitomises the domaine’s trademark ease and harmony while the Cuvée Oligocène has long and widely been regarded as one of the stand-out Bourgogne Blanc of the Côte de Beaune, showing unusual mineral depth and presence for a wine of such humble status. The two single site wines of Clos du Cromin and Les Tillets show contrasting styles also, with the Clos du Cromin located just north of the village, towards Volnay, and known for a higher proportion of clay, which brings a roundness. Les Tillets is at the top of the slope, south of the village, at an altitude of over 300 metres, a much cooler site on thinner soils of hard limestone, leading to a wine of more linear, mineral tension. The Corton-Charlemagne is always an excellent expression of this magnificent Grand Cru.