Tasting Note
93 Points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous Light gold with a vigorous mousse. Exotically perfumed, complex bouquet evokes smoky pit fruits and cured meat. There's an intensely leesy, nutty character here that reminds me of a Jura wine. Broad and fleshy, offering palate-staining peach pit, honeyed pear and preserved lemon flavors. Impressively concentrated, luscious and cream Champagne with a singular personality that I love, but that some might find a bit too wild.Review Date: 01 Nov 07
About the Producer
Laurent Champs is the fifth generation of his family to run Champagne Vilmart & Cie, which can trace its history back to 1890. Vilmart has always made its own wines from its own vineyards. They own 11 hectares of vineyard in Rilly-La-Montagne, about five kilometres to the south of Reims in the region known as the Montagne de Reims. Their vineyards are planted with 60% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir with the remaining balance Pinot Meunier. Total annual production comes in at a modest 8,500 cases. Laurent has never employed herbicides or chemical fertilizers since he assumed control of the estate out of respect for the land. One factor that sets Vilmart apart is that Laurent has always vinified his base wines in oak, some of which is new, yet you wouldn’t tell that easily and, over time, the use of oak has become increasingly sensitive and refined. A second is that the wines do not undergo malolactic fermentation. Finally, dosage is kept to a modest 7 grams per litre. The ripeness potential of the fruit at harvest is the focus, and Laurent has an uncanny habit of turning out great champagnes vintage after vintage. Antonio Galloni once commented that ‘one of the things I admire most about Laurent Champs is his ability to turn out not just good – but great – wines in challenging years in which other growers struggle.’ It is in such years that growers demonstrate their skill, and it should be said that comparatively few can match Vilmart for sheer consistency. When you consider this approach, coupled with high-class winemaking, it is no surprise that critics are so ready to heap praise on this still small producer. It is worth noting that none of Vilmart's vineyards are classified Grand Cru, but you would not be able to tell that from the quality in the glass, a nod to Laurent’s talents.
