Domaine Taupenot-Merme 2017

Domaine Taupenot-Merme 2017

Romain Taupenot and his sister Virginie make multi-faceted wines with all the hallmarks of great Morey-Saint-Denis and impressive complexity from the outsetAs we have previously stated, Domaine Taupenot-Merme is increasing its relevance to fine Burgundy buyers year-on-year.  They have 13.5 hectares across villages of Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-St. Georges as well as small parcels on the Côte de Beaune in Corton, St. Romain and Auxey-Duresses, all of which originally came from a different arm of the family.

Romain describes himself as a ‘vigneron paresseux’ – or a ‘lazy vigneron’. A modest and self-deprecating comment perhaps, but it does hint at his policy of minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery.  For Romain Taupenot, the key issue in the 2017 vintage was “how to make wines with freshness” but that when this had become the focus “the definition of the appellation is quite obvious.”  Romain feels that the wines will remain open rather than shut down at any point.

The winemaking is unobtrusive; the use of oak is measured to allow Pinot’s aromatics to express themselves fully. Despite his insistence on a laid-back approach, he comes across as a grower intent on raising the bar and elevating the quality of his wines as well as the standing of this domaine.

Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Chambolle-Musigny 2017

£220 per 6 bottle case in bond

Beautifully elegant scented red fruit nose and palate. Fine-grained, gently chalky tannins provide a gentle supporting structure. Lovely balance of elements; a wine of suppleness and subtleness with good Chambolle typicity and appeal.  Drink 2020-2025

 

Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru, Les Pruliers 2017  

£385 per 6 bottle case in bond

Floral and dark cherry notes on the nose are underscored by spicy notes and a touch of dark chocolate.  The palate opens with good volume then tightens with taut mineral persistence, which gives the wine drive and energy. This Pruliers perfectly combines the ripe nature of the vintage with Romains’s sensitive hand and the mineral nature of this terroir.  Drink 2022-2030

 

Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Morey-St Denis 1er Cru, La Riotte 2017

£385 per 6 bottle case in bond

The nose here shows a deep, macerated fruit quality of spicy red fruits together with a stony mineral dimension.  The palate opens with darker cherry fruit and is notable for the dense yet ethereal texture backed up by fine grained tannins, which bring a gently assertive, chalky grip on the finish,  a very fine Riotte.  Drink 2022-2030

 

Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, La Combe d’Orveaux 2017

£480 per 6 bottle case in bond

Lovely purity and precision here. The scented, floral aromatics are supported by vibrant raspberry and loganberry fruit.  The palate shows a wonderful taut mineral energy. There is a lightness of touch and an almost airy quality to this refined, elegant Chambolle which shows great length and detail on the persistent mineral finish.  Drink 2022-2030

 

Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Charmes-Chambertin 2017 @ £750 per 6 bottle case in bond

Rich, ripe fruit on the nose and a gentle toast note.  The palate is full, softly textured and harmonious with juicy ripe fruit.  Breadth and ripeness through the mid palate sees this wine build towards a firm, well-structured finish of powerful mineral length.  Drink 2023-2035

 

Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Mazoyeres-Chambertin 2017

£865 per 6 bottle case in bond

While there is a glossy, creamy ripe fruit quality here, there is a sense of detailed precision, too.  Floral hedgerow fruit.  Great fruit purity and silkiness of texture.  Long and fine with irony tannins at the end. A touch of spice and dark chocolate with a sense of the Grand Cru style of Morey more than Gevrey, perhaps.  Drink 2023-2035

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