A visit to Domaine Lécheneaut is always insightful; brothers Vincent and Philippe Lécheneaut are renowned for their knowledge and skill in managing their vineyards. With the well-publicised complexities thrown up by the unusual 2016 growing season, this was more essential than ever.
The domaine itself is situated in Nuits-Saint-Georges, but extends over 10 hectares of vines across 18 different appellations with some considerable holdings in Premier Cru vineyards, including Les Pruliers and Les Damodes. Fernand Lécheneaut worked for a négociant house and sold fruit from his own three hectares, purchased in the 1960s. Over the subsequent years, the family added to their holdings. It was Fernand’s sons, Vincent and Philippe, who then set themselves up as a fully-fledged domaine in the 1980s. Given glowing reviews, significant holdings and evident winemaking talent, it is surprising that this domaine has remained off the radar for so long. The brothers have accomplished much in the last 30 years and are subsequently very highly-regarded by fellow growers. It was, in fact, a personal recommendation from one such grower that led to our initial interest. The philosophy here includes organic and biodynamic principles which often underline the focus and attentiveness of a grower. The quality of the fruit is key to their success and each vintage we have assessed has demonstrated stunning purity. These are deceptively long-lived wines; while it is the fruit expression that comes to the fore, there is an underlying structure of great presence. High class Burgundy, indeed.
Domaine Lécheneaut, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2016
£180 per twelve bottle case in bond
Lovely purity and drinkability here. Crunchy berry fruit, fresh and moreish. The fruit is healthy and ripe and there is a wonderful balance and harmony to the gently expressed, early drinking style. Drink 2018-2020
Domaine Lécheneaut, Gevrey-Chambertin 2016
£180 per six bottle case in bond
Though currently quite tight, there is an underlying purity of fruit here. There is also an evident balance of fruit, acidity and tannin that only serves to underline Vincent and Philippe’s meticulous vineyard work throughout the growing season. Drink 2020-2027
Domaine Lécheneaut, Morey-St Denis 2016
£180 per six bottle case in bond
Scented blue fruit on the nose leads into a palate of flowing freshness with succulent, juicy, fresh blue and red berry fruit. The delicate, lacy texture carries the pure blue fruit and yet again yields a benchmark Morey villages from the Lecheneaut brothers. Drink 2019-2026
Domaine Lécheneaut, Chambolle-Musigny 2016
£180 per six bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Vibrant with floral cherry aromatics and a fragrance typical of the best wines of Chambolle. There is an increased intensity in the 2016, which benefits from the inclusion of what Chambolle Premier Cru the Lecheneauts were able to produce. The red and black cherry fruit palate is supported by tannins of great finesse. This Chambolle is all about accessible, fragrant fruit and gently-expressed mineral direction. Drink 2019-2026
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chouillets, Vieilles Vignes 2016
£190 per six bottle case in bond
Old vine concentration of pure red cherry fruit on the nose leads to a palate that is juicy and shows a wonderful fruit stone quality. The palate is multi-layered and the tannins are fine giving a beautifully textured length of purity, freshness and balance. Drink 2020-2028
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Les Damodes 2016
£310 per six bottle case in bond
This Damodes shows a beautiful interplay of red and blue fruit with a touch of spice. There is a silkiness here, not unexpected given Damodes proximity to Vosne-Romanée. Damodes is also one of the higher altitude climats of Nuits St Georges and the freshness and minerality that this engenders come through clearly in this wonderful expression with all its fruit purity and Vosne freshness. Drink 2020-2030
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Les Pruliers 2016
£310 per six bottle case in bond
A beautifully pure, spicy nose is followed by a clean, delineated, precise palate. Long flowing fruit gives way to a mineral core that drives through to the end of the palate, where it then leaves a sweet, pure fresh fruit on the finish. There is remarkable mineral complexity here in an exemplary Pruliers from Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut. Drink 2020-2030
Domaine Lécheneaut, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2016
£810 per six bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
With 40% of the crop lost in Clos de la Roche, the Lecheneauts only produced two barrels in 2016. But what they have produced is a wine with an incredible core of ripe, fresh, mouth-filling fruit. This is complex, spicy, mineral, long and fine. The finish shows a fruit opulence and tannins of irony power. Drink 2022-2032