Domaine Hubert Lamy 2014

Bordeaux 2025 - At a crossroads

Bordeaux 2025 - At a crossroads If I read another comment on social media describing the 2025 Bordeaux vintage as “very unique”, I might scream—not only because something is either unique or it isn’t, but because the idea that one can meaningfully run the rule over a Bordeaux vintage and compare it to one from the past is as deluded as it is empty. The conditions encountered in modern-day Bordeaux are fundamentally different from those of previous decades, and the decisions made by winemakers have shifted just as dramatically. Would contemporary viticultural and winemaking choices deliver wines like the 1982s, the 1989s, or even the 2010s? Unlikely. Techniques and knowledge have evolved with experience, and just as importantly, style itself is in flux. Bordelais winemakers and estate owners are acutely aware of a changing market. They frequently cite a younger audience that feels little inclination to buy wines early on faith alone, trusting that they will represent value 10, 15, or 20 years down the line. In response, producers are increasingly aiming to make wines that show greater freshness; wines that are more supple thanks to a lighter hand in extraction; wines that are more fluid, a touch lighter in body, ideally lower in alcohol, and marked by less overt oak and less aggressively youthful tannin. The objective is to create wines with far broader drinking windows—wines that are approachable early, yet capable of aging for decades. After all, as one often hears in Bordeaux today, a good bottle of wine is an empty bottle—perhaps an implicit acknowledgement of some of the excesses of the last major stylistic shift, driven by the Parker palate, which prized richness, power, and extraction to the point where certain wines became near caricatures: showpieces for which enjoying a glass in their youth was an unfancied challenge. The scale of this shift should not be underestimated, and it may yet prove to be every bit as significant as the influence once exerted by Parker. Having visited Bordeaux for the best part of 25 years, I have never before sensed that the region stands at such an important crossroads. This vast landscape is evolving, and the stylistic spectrum is being stretched in a way I haven’t witnessed previously: some estates remain largely unmoved by fashion, continuing to produce wines that follow the classic pattern of earlier years; others still seem anchored in an extracted style; while a growing number are actively embracing the push towards lighter, more accessible wines. Given this backdrop, generalisations have rarely seemed so unhelpful. At the same time, the very purpose of the En Primeur system is being called into question, appearing increasingly irrelevant to a younger audience that struggles to understand the economic logic of parting with their cash years in advance when equally lauded vintages that are physically available at the same price. Even more seasoned buyers, who committed to En Primeur over many campaigns, have seen market corrections erode a very significant proportion of the value of their holdings. The likelihood of their re-engagement this year feels low, despite the ‘enthusiasm’ expressed by certain merchants. The price reductions required to genuinely re ignite demand seem to be at levels that many château owners find difficult to contemplate, particularly as it would have a cascading knock-on effect to many recent, overpriced vintages that have not sold through. Last Wednesday’s release of Château Pontet Canet hardly qualifies as a rip roaring success, coming to market above last year’s price. And yet, some people are already talking of it selling out. Given production was 40% down on a normal year and the Château may feel the need to hold back some stock, it may not represent a clamour for stock even if négociant allocations do run dry. As one négociant observed, we may need a sacrificial lamb: news of lacklustre sales travels quickly in Bordeaux and may yet prompt a last minute reappraisal of release pricing for the next wave of châteaux, should a release price meet with minimal uptake. Certainly, if this vintage needs to work, individual releases will be closely watched—and any signals could still perhaps be heeded. I would add that 2025 is no homogeneous success (please see the separate section below), an outcome signaled by the weather data and confirmed by our recent tastings. There are successful wines, but fewer than early noise might have suggested. The drum banging that has already begun, wrapped in simplistic soundbites, smacks less of confidence than of desperation. The UK fine wine market remains subdued. While a degree of stability has edged in since late autumn last year, volumes are low. The limited areas of buoyancy relate largely to mature stock in tighter supply, trading at market corrected prices and concentrated firmly at the top end of the market. The absence of meaningful En Primeur sales for merchants who have historically depended on them will inevitably pinch. It is worth remembering how the system once functioned: merchants sold En Primeur, collected cash from private clients within 15–30 days of invoicing, and benefited from positive cash flow through staggered payments to their négociants over the year. For many, it was a valuable financial tool—far less so in recent years, as volumes declined and demand narrowed to an ever-smaller group of wines. It is increasingly difficult to see how En Primeur regains its relevance, which will cause some added consternation for those merchants who view it as a central pillar of their offering. Today, there is no shortage of intelligent, financially minded analysis highlighting the true cost of carry and laying bare why, in recent years, En Primeur has so often failed to add up once all costs are factored in. As compelling as this analysis can be, it also strips away something vital: the joy of En Primeur as it once existed. When collectors participated, they rarely made hard nosed financial decisions. They bought what they liked, and often in volume. It may not have been framed as investment, but many purchased more than they were ever likely to drink, secure in the belief that first offer prices were relatively fair and that values would rise over time. The now more talked about carry costs would be covered by a steady and gentle price appreciation sufficient, at the very least, to cover their cellarage costs. I don’t recall spreadsheets or cost of carry calculations driving decisions back then. Release prices were low, the market was gathering momentum, and gains were assumed. At best, it was a passion investment: cases might have been sold occasionally to fund new purchases, never with the intention of losing money, but without anxiety either. Graphs were unnecessary. Today, almost everything in Bordeaux comes back to price, and it is remarkably hard to convey just how fundamentally attitudes have changed. Many of those collectors—now in their late 60s and 70s—are naturally less active, other than in selling down cellars even in a soft market. The baton is not being passed to the next generation because the decision is no longer an easy one. Collecting has become less about pleasure and more about avoiding mistakes: who wants to buy at the wrong price, only to watch wines emerge cheaper at maturity once someone else has paid for the cellarage. Small wonder, then, that Bordeaux en Primeur is proving to be a turn off for younger drinkers. The once finely tuned En Primeur machine now feels bloated and protracted, and above all, it demands analysis where instinct and enthusiasm once sufficed. It has certainly lost much of the sense of excitement that once made it special and now appears like a sideshow. Can it be salvaged? Of course, but it would necessitate a dramatic re-positioning if that were to be the case and I don’t believe Château proprietors and shareholders are anywhere near that mindset yet. Update on the quality of 2025 post tasting The 2025 Bordeaux vintage was shaped by a pattern that is becoming increasingly familiar: a hot, dry growing season punctuated by well timed rain, particularly towards the end of August that unblocks the vines and allows them to move into the final phase of ripening their fruit. Winter and spring provided modest water reserves, but from May through much of August conditions were warm to very hot, with prolonged drought stress across much of the region and occasional extreme heat spikes—up to 45–46°C in parts of Pessac Léognan, with close to 40–45 days above 30°C reported at some leading estates. As in 2022, there were genuine fears of runaway sugar accumulation, rising pH levels, and of vines shutting down before phenolic maturity could be completed. By mid summer, many vineyards—particularly those on free draining gravel and sandy soils—experienced hydric stress severe enough to induce vine blockage, effectively halting photosynthesis and sugar accumulation. This phenomenon was widely cited by technical teams during En Primeur tastings. On younger vines or less water retentive soils, ripening stalled entirely, producing small, thick skinned berries with low juice yields and growing sugar acid imbalances. At that stage, potential alcohol levels were tracking well beyond comfort zones, while malic acid degradation pushed pH upwards, raising legitimate concerns around freshness and balance. The vintage was effectively rescued by rainfall at the end of August and into early September, which reactivated blocked vines across much of Bordeaux. This rain played a decisive role. It allowed physiological ripening to resume while also increasing berry size, thereby reducing sugar concentration and moderating pH. As a result of both blockage stopping sugar accumulation and dilution on account of rains, many finished wines display alcohol levels notably lower than initially anticipated, frequently in the 13.0–13.5% range, with some prominent examples even lower. Correspondingly, pH levels tend to sit in a more classical range, lending a sense of freshness and structural discipline when managed carefully. However, the reduction in alcohol was not achieved through restraint alone. Dilution was a significant factor, and dilution works indiscriminately. While lower alcohol may be aesthetically appealing, the accompanying increase in berry volume also dilutes acids, phenolics, colour compounds and aromatic precursors. For illustration, a parcel sitting at 24° Brix (approximately 14.4% potential alcohol) that experiences a 15% increase in berry volume following rain will see sugar concentration fall to around 20.4° Brix, equating to roughly 12.2–12.5% potential alcohol—a drop of more than 1% ABV without any loss of total sugar per berry. The downside is that other structural components are similarly diluted. Where extraction and picking decisions did not adjust accordingly, some wines can feel flat or lacking in lift, with softened fruit definition and attenuated tension on the palate. This helps explain why 2025 is far from a homogeneous success. The strongest wines strike a fine balance between moderated alcohol and preserved concentration, integrating freshness without sacrificing depth. Less successful examples reveal dilution’s limitations: wines that are technically correct but lack energy, mid palate drive or aromatic precision—particularly where harvesting followed significant rainfall without sufficient recalibration in the cellar. The contrast between varieties further reinforces this point. Merlot appears less consistently successful than Cabernet Sauvignon, especially on the Right Bank. As an earlier ripening variety, Merlot was more exposed to mid season hydric stress and more vulnerable to dilution once the rains arrived. While top sites with old vines on clay limestone performed well, many Merlot dominant wines show broader fruit, softer definition and reduced precision. Cabernet Sauvignon, by contrast, benefited from its later ripening cycle, tougher skins and greater resilience to drought. Restarted by the late August rain, Cabernet reached phenolic maturity at lower sugar levels, producing wines with clearer aromatic definition, firmer structure and better overall tension—particularly on the Left Bank, which stands out as the most consistent set of appellations in 2025. Ultimately, 2025 is a vintage defined by timing and judgement. The weather delivered both the challenge and the solution. Where producers treated dilution as a variable to manage rather than a solution in itself—adjusting harvest timing, extraction and blending—the results are poised and compelling. Where they did not, the wines can feel resolved on paper but less convincing in the glass. There are several genuinely head turning wines that we would like to offer, having been impressed by both their quality and style. That said, it remains to be seen whether a compelling fair value case can be made. Our intention would not be to present a wide range, but rather a tight selection focused on the strongest performers. We will, of course, do our best to guide you on value, though the final decision to purchase ultimately rests with you. It is also worth highlighting a group of wines from smaller, lesser known châteaux that have navigated the vintage particularly well and whose releases rarely appear at ambitious price levels. Advances in winemaking techniques at these estates, combined with a noticeably riper fruit profile, mean they should offer attractive value for those seeking pleasure rather than prestige. Importantly, their pricing has limited scope to adjust downward, having been released at relatively modest levels from the outset Simon Larkin MW

Bordeaux 2025 En Primeur: Heat, scarcity and hope — but price will still decide all

Bordeaux 2025 En Primeur: Heat, scarcity and hope — but price will still decide all The 2025 Bordeaux vintage has arrived with a familiar narrative: extreme weather, tiny volumes and confident early assurances about quality. Much of this is well founded, but as ever in Bordeaux, the truth sits somewhere between genuine success and optimistic spin. The growing season was undeniably early and hot. After a mild, dry winter, budbreak occurred around the end of March—roughly ten days to two weeks ahead of the long term average—and the vines never really slowed down thereafter. Flowering in mid May was rapid and even, mercifully free of frost and with far less mildew pressure than growers have endured in recent years. That alone felt like a minor victory after the attritional seasons of 2021, 2023 and 2024. Summer, however, was uncompromising. June and July were warm and dry, and August delivered repeated heatwaves, with sustained periods above 35°C. Berry growth slowed dramatically, skins thickened and juice volumes fell, particularly on gravel soils and exposed sites. Timely rain in July and, crucially, cooler nights meant most vines avoided outright shutdown, but the margin for error was thin, and vineyard management decisions mattered enormously. The vines spent much of the summer operating close to their physiological limits, where relatively small differences in weather or human decisions could tip outcomes from ‘concentrated and fresh’ into ‘blocked, overripe or unbalanced’. Why? Firstly, water stress was finely balanced. Winter rainfall had certainly replenished reserves reasonably well, but from late spring onwards conditions were dry, and soil water began to deplete early. By July, many vineyards were already in moderate water stress, which is desirable for quality up to a point because it limits berry size and boosts phenolic concentration. The problem is that once a vine crosses a certain threshold, stress becomes excessive: photosynthesis slows or stops, sugar accumulation stalls, acids drop, and tannins can harden without fully ripening. The July rain was “timely” because it nudged vines back from that cliff edge. Without it, many sites—especially ones with young vines, shallow soils and gravelly terroirs—would likely have shut down entirely in August. That closeness to shutdown is what made the margin for error narrow. Secondly, the heat itself was sustained rather than episodic. A single heat spike can often be ridden out; weeks of elevated temperatures are harder to manage. During the August heatwaves, vines were simultaneously dealing with heat stress, water stress and rapid sugar accumulation. In these conditions, grapes can gain sugar faster than flavour or phenolic maturity, pushing potential alcohol up while leaving tannins under ripe. That means growers had little room to wait it out in the hope things would resolve themselves. Picking too early risked green tannins; picking too late risked high alcohol, jammy fruit and loss of freshness. There was no comfortable middle ground that applied uniformly across the region. Thirdly, canopy management decisions mattered much more than usual. In cooler or more forgiving years, leaf removal errors are often survivable. In 2025 they weren’t. Too much leaf stripping exposed bunches to sunburn, dehydration and phenolic bitterness; too much shading reduced airflow and slowed the final stages of ripening. Because the heat arrived early and persisted, many estates had to adjust standard practices on the fly—sometimes plot by plot. The difference between correctly shaded old vines on clay limestone soils and exposed young vines on gravel could be the difference between balance and excess, even within the same estate. And fourthly, harvest timing became unforgiving. Once sugar levels hit target levels, they did not plateau gently—they kept rising. Acids were vulnerable to rapid degradation in the heat, so a delay of just a few days could materially change the profile of a wine. This compressed harvest windows and increased the importance of precision: knowing which parcels could hang on for phenolic maturity, and which needed to be picked before either potential alcohol or pH (or both) drifted too high.In short, 2025 did offer real rewards to careful growers, but it gave them little slack. The weather did just enough—rain at the right moment, cooler nights late in the season—to allow quality to emerge, but not enough to rescue poor decisions or weak sites. That’s why the vintage is likely to produce some excellent wines alongside others that feel pushed, warm or unbalanced, and why early optimism should probably be read with a degree of scepticism rather than taken as uniform truth.The dry whites were picked from mid August, Merlot from the final days of August on the Right Bank, and Cabernet Sauvignon largely before mid September—dates that place 2025 firmly alongside 2022 as one of the earliest vintages for modern Bordeaux. Yields were low, and there is no need for exaggeration here. In 2025, Bordeaux’s total production is estimated at roughly 3.6 million hectolitres, around 15% below the five year average and among the smallest regional crops since the early 1990s. Many red wine vineyards reported yields in the high twenties to mid thirties hectolitres per hectare, while some white wine parcels saw dramatic juice losses due to dehydration rather than disease. This scarcity will be loudly advertised, but it is worth noting that Bordeaux has now produced consecutive small crops, and low volume is no longer enough, on its own, to create urgency in the market. Nor is it likely to prove uncommon as markedly dry summers become the norm.When it comes to quality, early signals are positive but not without caveats. The wines are expected to be concentrated and structured, with ripe tannins, deep colour and clearly defined fruit profiles. Comparisons with 2022 are common, and not unreasonable, though many tasters suggest 2025 may show slightly better balance and freshness thanks to cooler nights and steadier ripening late in the season. We will find out for ourselves when we taste in the coming weeks. We already know that alcohol levels will have necessitated careful handling, particularly in Merlot heavy blends, and the gap between top sites and less privileged terroirs is likely to be pronounced. Whites appear to have emerged in better shape than might be expected from such a hot year, retaining acidity and aromatic definition on account of those cooler nights, while sweet wine production is limited and inconsistent due to the lack of sustained autumn humidity. If the viticultural story sounds reassuring, the commercial backdrop is anything but. Bordeaux 2025 will eventually be sold into a fine wine market that remains deeply cautious. Prices across the secondary market have been correcting since late 2022, liquidity is patchy, and buyers are acutely aware that recent En Primeur purchases have often lost money rather than gained it. The fundamental problem persists: mature, ready to drink Bordeaux from good vintages is widely available at prices equal to or below current or recent release levels, so why all the fuss?To stimulate genuine demand, many commentators believe new releases need to be priced roughly 30–40% below recent peak levels, and clearly cheaper than the cheapest relevant back vintages already on the market. In 2024, average price cuts of a little over 20% were widely judged insufficient; buyers saw no compelling reason to commit early when better value could be found elsewhere already or expected further down the line.For 2025, the message is awkward but unavoidable. Higher quality and lower yields may give châteaux moral confidence, but they do not automatically restore pricing power. To properly engage buyers, release prices will likely need to sit decisively below 2022, and in many cases below the cheapest physical vintages currently trading—effectively making 2025 the market’s value option, not its prestige one, and this is the key to a successful campaign for merchants, Bordeaux Négociants and Château-owners alike. In all likelihood, that will prove to be a difficult concession for producers facing rising costs and shrinking volumes, but the alternative is familiar: muted releases, slow sales, and eventual discounting once the wines are physical. Obviously, the well-heeled Châteaux are in a far better place to weather this period and sit on stock, but even their patience could be tested as the compulsion to buy early isn’t there in a market that has largely corrected to the tune of 35%.Will prices actually fall far enough? Judging by recent history, only some will. The very top names may hold their line on reduced availability and long term brand strength, but for much of Bordeaux, gravity has a way of asserting itself. If 2025 is priced for the market Bordeaux wishes it still had, rather than the one it is clearly facing, sceptical buyers are unlikely to be persuaded by quality alone. If pressure to fall in line with the newly corrected market prevails, this could just prove to be a vintage that really works, but whether the Bordelais assess the market’s disengagement or disinterest in the same way as we do isn’t something that I, personally, would bet on. I hate to be the pessimist, but, at present, I expect the early releases to demonstrate how poorly the market predicament is understood. I imagine initial releases will be too high, then I anticipate that a little more reality may creep in as news of poor sell-through rates reverberate around the Bordeaux Place. But, when all is said and done, I expect a lot of 2025 Bordeaux to remain unsold. I will be very happy to be proven wrong! Heat, scarcity and hope — but price will still decide all.Simonsimon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com

Burgundy 2024: Domaine Lécheneaut

Burgundy 2024Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges I have never quite understood why they don't sell for more than they do given the fine quality.Allen Meadows, burghound.com The 2024 vintage was brutal for the Lécheneauts. Brutal because of the hand Mother Nature dealt. Brutal too because they chose the pain of discipline to avoid the pain of regret. The outcome being that, across the range, the average loss of production was a shocking 80%. They produced no old vine Nuits St Georges, Au Chouillet, nor any of their Premier Cru Aux Argillas, all the fruit saved from those two vineyards going into the village Nuits-St Georges. Even with these additions to boost it, there were only SIX barrels of Nuits-St Georges (village) produced in total compared to a more usual forty-five!! That there is so very little of their calling-card cuvée highlights, yet again, the Lécheneaut family's total commitment to quality. They did the work in the vineyards to counter the mildew provoked by the near constant rain through the growing season. They removed affected fruit. They then vinified sensitively. The result is a set of wines, miniscule in volume, but showing fruit purity, fine tannins and, most importantly, beautiful freshness, fluidity and balance. These will be for drinking over the short to medium term, over which time they will provide the drinking pleasure we have all come to associate with the wines of Domaine Lécheneaut.Domaine Lécheneaut, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2024£120 per 6 bottle case in bondRipe fresh red and blue berry fruit on the nose. This fruit purity and freshness comes through to the palate with an appealing gently juicy quality and a fine, stony mineral aspect on the finish. Drink 2026-2030 (ROM)Lécheneaut et Fils, Marsannay, Les Récilles 2024£180 per 6 bottle case in bondA new wine to the Lécheneaut range this Marsannay comes from 60-year-old vines in organically certified vineyards, for which the viticulture is done entirely by the Lécheneauts. This stood out in my November tasting at the Domaine for its ripe and healthy, soft-skinned red and black fruit nose and palate. Fine purity and good mid-palate volume all wrapped up in fairly silky tannins and showing good length. A really enjoyable and nicely balanced red Burgundy at a very fair price. Drink 2027-2032 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Gevrey-Chambertin 2024£225 per 6 bottle case in bondInitially closed but with a lovely forest fruit purity beneath. Floral notes emerge with air. The palate is compact and shows good power and presence. Tannins are evident but not aggressive. Tight, compact, firm, but not austere. A typically fine Gevrey village from the Lécheneauts. Drink 2029-2036 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Morey-St Denis 2024£210 per 6 bottle case in bondElegant pure blue fruit on the nose. The palate shows a welcome spicy-peppery touch which cuts the fruit and confirms the Morey origins. Subtle juicy dimension and a mouth-wateringly saline finish. The tannins are fine the there is such lovely harmony. Drink 2028-2034 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Chambolle-Musigny 2024£250 per 6 bottle case in bondThis Chambolle-Musigny contains everything that was harvested by the Lécheneauts from their holdings in Chambolle, including the premier cru fruit, which was insufficient to allow them to make the Premier Cru Borniques. Even still they made only 3 barrels. Quite reticent on the nose this gradually opens to show its typical floral red fruit. The chalky mineral quality on the palate is well-judged and there is fine balance and length with good tension coming through on a finish that shows good length. Drink 2028-2034 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges 2024£210 per 6 bottle case in bondWith neither the Premier Cru Aux Argillas nor the old vine cuvée of Au Chouillet made in 2024, the village Nuits has benefitted from some even higher calibre fruit than usual. And it shows. Soft-skinned, ripe dark and red cherry fruit on the nose. Pure, ripe fruit attack. Beautifully cushioned and textured. The fruit spreads across the palate, coating yet caressing. The finish is taut and mineral, giving an excellent sense of focus and direction. Drink 2027-2034 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits- St Georges 1er Cru, Les Pruliers 2024£360 per 6 bottle case in bondThere is a broad swathe of red fruit underpinned by mineral precision and direction. Really tensile and persistent. Pure, precise and unusually silky for this vineyard as well as more open and expressive. The Lécheneauts demonstrate their craft here. Drink 2030-2040 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru, Les Damodes 2024£360 per 6 bottle case in bondClassically explosive, ripe, broad, almost exotic on the nose. Then the palate is tight and compact with a tannin presence; quite a surprise after the nose and for the vineyard. With a little time, the harmony and texture of Damodes reasserts itself. This should evolve well. Drink 2030-2040 (ROM)Domaine Lécheneaut, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2024£540 per 3 bottle case in bondNot tasted due to tiny volume

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Domaine Hubert Lamy 2014

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