Bordeaux grower, winemaker and writer Gavin Quinney recently commented; ‘As the ‘en primeur’ tastings of young samples by critics, commentators and merchants confirmed, 2021 is a comparatively weaker and uneven vintage for reds.’Not quite a headline grabbing quote, but this is an accurate and fair summary of the 2021 red Bordeaux vintage. It may sound better to talk of a ‘return to classicism’, but that suggests that there was intent to make lighter, fresher wines rather than the fact that weather events shaped the outcome.
The weather during the growing season was hardly favourable to achieving a successful vintage. February and March were warm and dry leading to an early budburst, but this exposed the vines to significant damage and loss to the severe frosts that afflicted more wine regions than just Bordeaux in 2021.
As you will have heard, loss of quantity does not necessarily entail loss of quality; indeed, it is frequently a precursor to increased quality, as the vine focuses its attention on a smaller crop of fruit. For this increase in quality to occur, however, fine conditions are required throughout the remainder of the growing season. Such conditions simply were not forthcoming in Bordeaux in 2021. To put some detail on this, May was almost two degrees cooler than the 30-year average and saw 50% more rain, while three times more rain than usual fell in June (184mm in 2021 vs 61mm on 30-year average (2021 figures are averages from 6 stations: Graves, St. Emilion, Haut-Médoc, Northern Médoc, Entre-Deux-Mers & Blaye, 30-year average figures from Bordeaux Mérignac)). A decidedly cool July and August followed.
While the increasingly precise approach to viticulture that is practised in Bordeaux in recent years can address the threat of mildew and rot (an ever-present threat in 2021), nothing can make up for the lack of sunshine and warmth required for ripe fruit development, particularly when this is combined with over-plentiful reserves of water in the soil. It is now well understood that a reasonable degree of hydric stress is a feature of great vintages and is required to produce high quality grapes. Without it, the vine’s energy is directed to its foliage over its fruit. Hydric stress was certainly not a widespread feature in 2021; in fact, one of the major problems for Merlot was ‘bloat’. This was evidenced by the amount ofsaignéepractised (the process of draining juice from fermentation tanks to increase the skin to juice ratio). Such an approach has not been necessitated for many years in Bordeaux.
On robertparker.com, William Kelley titled his own vintage overview ‘Sauvé des Eaux’(saved from the waters) and he duly highlights the strides in viticulture and winemaking that have not just saved the 2021 vintage from being a car crash, but have also allowed for some significant overachievers. He goes on to state that:‘The less successful 2021s exhibit a variety of inadequacies. At the worst, the presence of mildew can impart bloody, ferric, metallic aromas and flavors to young wines. Dilution can be an issue. And sometimes marginal levels of ripeness translate into a gamut of outcomes ranging from ephemeral and simple to lean and angular. The vintage’s most common deficiency is a somewhat hollow mid-palate’.In our own tastings in Bordeaux in early May, we certainly found examples of these inadequacies, resulting in largely pleasant, but not hugely impressive or compelling wines. We do however concur with William Kelly that there are some notable surprises; wines that taste like they were made in a vintage with completely different conditions!
Many of these surprises are found in wines with higher proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc, and at Châteaux whose teams were able to hold their nerve and wait until well into October to harvest their Cabernets. Frédéric Faye at Château Figeac told us that heavy rains were predicted across Bordeaux for 2nd/3rdOctober, prompting many producers to accelerate their harvest. He believes that if he had picked at that moment, and had not waited, he could have made a red wine, but he could not have made a wine worthy of the Figeac name. The predicted rains never came. The quality of the Cabernets, which have always been such a significant element of the DNA of Figeac, is evident in the glass. Like a good number of Technical Directors, Frédéric benefited from the support of the Château owners and from good fortune, given the rains never materialised. Marielle Cazaux at Château La Conseillante echoed many of Frédéric Faye’s reflections and stated that ‘in 2021 there was no chance of over-ripening; what was important was to wait to see if we can make it better’. Marielle listed three factors that, for her, defined the 2021 vintage: the place, the work of the team, and luck. Fortune may have favoured the brave, but success in this vintage certainly required more than just courage and luck.
Cyprien Champanhet at Château Haut-Bailly gave us a slightly different outlook. He included terroir and teamwork but added technology as the third. This third aspect has been highlighted in the reports written by numerous critics. Optical sorting machines, for example, which are highly effective in eliminating mildew or rot affected fruit were much needed in this vintage. More widely across Bordeaux in 2021, it was some of the ‘old technologies’ that made a reappearance in this difficult vintage. We have already mentionedsaignéeto increase concentration, but there was also far greater use of chaptalization, something that hasn’t been required in many years, particularly given the warmer vintages we have encountered in Bordeaux. Chaptalization is the addition of sugar to boost the final alcohol content of the wine and it was historically practised in vintages where ripeness was not complete. So, the disparity between the fruit ripeness if we compare recent fine vintages to 2021 is even greater than it might appear if simply judged by the stated alcohol of the finished wine. This point highlights why there are indeed numerous wines which, at best, lack some mid-palate weight of fruit and at worst are hollow and meagre.
Two of our highlights from the 2021 vintage.
So, if this is classicism, then is it a compelling argument for clients to buy en primeur?
Often at this point, the wine trade craves comparisons. There are those who have evoked the style of the 1990s, which intrigues me if this is to be a positive comparison. If memory serves me correctly, 1991 was substantially lost to frost while 1992, 1993, 1994 were not ‘sauvé des eaux’but rather compromised by dilution due to significant rain at harvest. 1995 was characterised by firmer tannins that have in some instances dominated the fruit, and, while 1996 was a strong Left Bank vintage, it was much less successful on the Right Bank – the opposite being the case in 1998. 1997 yielded supple, earlier drinking styles that were released at…you guessed it, too high a price.
This all brings us neatly to the all-important question of price. Here, William Kelley writes another useful summary.
To understand Bordeaux’s en primeur campaigns, one must attempt to understand the place de Bordeaux. The châteaux’ clients are not end-consumers, but rather the négociants of Bordeaux; and the négociants, at the time of writing, need wine. It seems a foregone conclusion, therefore, that the 2021s will be, at best, priced somewhere between the 2019 and 2020 vintages—and perhaps as high as the 2020s. Of course, I’d love to see a return to 2019 pricing, at least for the leading estates whose prices are hardly linked to undeniably increasing production costs. The more reasonable the pricing, the easier it will be to perpetuate the positive momentum that the 2019 vintage initiated for Bordeaux in the marketplace, and to continue to win the region new acquaintances and reinterest old friends.
If these musings tell us anything, it is that pricing is more likely to remain at the 2020 levels than revert to the more market-stimulating prices of the 2019s. The initial 2021 releases fromPetits Châteauxsupport this view. It is not unlikely that there will be multiple pricing strategies and we expect most to follow suit. The number of wines that are in demand or are successful aten primeurhas become increasingly small, as we have recounted for some years already. This group includes the wines that invariably transcend the vintage, and wines that have their own dynamic in the broader market irrespective of vintage. If these wines are released at, or higher than, 2020 levels they will still no doubt succeed in many instances. Wines that are not part of this increasingly select group are likely to struggle as there are no real arguments to purchase even if the prices are reduced. Why? Well, their prices are not likely to appreciate when bottled; they will continue to be widely available in the market; and they are unfinished wines. This last point should sound a note of caution to those relying on reviews. As Antonio Galloni writes on vinous.com; ‘It is important to note that the 2021s are not finished wines. Many 2021s feel quite fragile at this stage, as if they could improve or deteriorate in barrel. It is a vintage in which élevage (aging) is going to be absolutely critical in determining the final result.’
So, what can you expect from Atlas? Basically, we will take our view on release prices, and only offer wines from Châteaux that we believe warrant purchasing en primeur. This will undoubtedly add up to a narrow and relatively small campaign as there is no need to buy pleasant, relatively light, forward drinking Bordeaux on an en primeur basis, particularly when they are priced alongside wines from recent, infinitely more successful vintages that are still available in the market.
NEW RELEASES : 2021 Barolo from Poderi Oddero - 'I would be thrilled to own these wines' AG
NEW RELEASES:2021 Barolo from Poderi Oddero'I would be thrilled to own these wines' AGI was so impressed with these 2021s from Poderi e Cantine Oddero. I suppose I should not be surprised, given where the wines have been over the last handful of years, but at the same time, I can't forget the enormous strides the Oddero family has made over that period.Antoni Galloni, vinous.com, January 2025 2021 Barolo£170 per 6 bottle case in bond2021 Barolo, Villero£420 per 6 bottle case in bond2021 Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione£495 per 6 bottle case in bond2021 Barolo, Brunate£525 per 6 bottle case in bond
2019 Barolo Riserva, Bussia Vigna Mondoca£525 per 6 bottle case in bond2019 Barolo Riserva, Vigna Rionda£840 per 6 bottle case in bond
Oddero has produced perhaps their finest set of wines in 2021 – I nearly drove into the gatepost as I left this outstanding estate in La Morra last month as I was still mesmerised by the wines. Not sure what that would have done for my allocation if I had!I have really enjoyed the wines of Oddero since 2016 – they show refinement, classicism and purity. They have produced many memorable wines, but I am not sure if I have ever been so impressed right across the range. The 2021s are truly beautiful. It seems a certain Mr Antonio Galloni agrees as he wrote the following in his recent review:I was so impressed with these 2021s from Poderi e Cantine Oddero. I suppose I should not be surprised, given where the wines have been over the last handful of years, but at the same time, I can't forget the enormous strides the Oddero family has made over that period. Readers will find wines that express all the best the vintage had to offer. The straight Barolo is a fabulous introduction to the range. From there, the wines just get better and better. The highlights are many. This year, I was especially struck by the Villero, a truly magnificent Barolo….. Brunate, Oddero's smallest holding…… is another exceptional wine in this lineup. As is the Barolo Rocche di Castiglione. I would be thrilled to own these wines.As the first 2021 Barolo are being released, I think this vintage marks a very significant shift….never before have I tasted a young Barolo vintage with such accessibility coupled with fine quality. So many wines across the board will drink younger than you might expect. I think it is one of those vintages that will offer a broad window of drinkability; it is fairly uncommon for Barolo to show such accessibility yet still retain the ability to age over decades, but a changing climate and refined winemaking are making this possible.To give you a little background on the estate:Poderi Oddero is an historic Barolo property, with roots going back to the end of the 18th century, making it one of the oldest established houses. You may not be familiar with the estate, and you may be confused by the name, as, in 2005, Giacomo Oddero and his brother Luigi split the estate, with Luigi heading off to create wines in his own name. As with any estate, such a division is never easy, and it took a little while for the dust to settle. When I visited to taste the 2016s, it was clear this famous estate was on a very fine trajectory, having crafted an exceptional Brunate and Rocche di Castiglione. I have followed them closely ever since. This La Morra estate’s wines have risen to real prominence under the stewardship of Mariacristina Oddero, Giacomo’s daughter, ably assisted by her niece Isabella and son Pietro.One of the keys to Oddero’s success is its enviable holdings in some of the most heralded Barolo vineyards such as Vigna Rionda, Rocche di Castiglione, Brunate, Villero, and a more recently acquired small parcel in Monvigliero. Oddero has been a fascinating property to track; quality has not always been as high as it is today, yet we are now witnessing far greater consistency than ever before, culminating in, as I have previously commented, a stunning range of wines. The wines are made in a reassuringly traditional style that allows vineyard typicity to be clearly expressed. I previously wrote that ‘I fully expect the following that this estate has garnered to grow considerably over the next few years as the wines show purity and definition and are in a style that will surely appeal to followers of great traditional Barolo’ – I think that growth has started. Additionally, the critics are waking up to the quality and the Oddero family have been intent on pushing quality higher in the meantime.To learn a little more about the specifics of the 2021 vintage, read on.Vine growth kicked off early in 2021 before the weather cooled towards May. Some vineyards were affected by frost in April, which is often a risk when growth commences in warm early Spring conditions. 2021 was a warm vintage, with heat summation data showing it was warmer than the average of the last 20 years, which probably comes as no surprise. But it wasn’t among the hottest vintages - while the summer was hot, our growers reported that there weren’t any dramatic heat spikes. Winter rain had gone some way to restoring soil water levels, which proved to be much needed as rainfall through the growing season in 2021 was lower than expected. Because of this soil water, the vines didn’t experience any dramatic stress or drought conditions. Harvest was uncomplicated, with many growers reporting uniform ripeness – some concluded their harvest by early October, others waited until later in the month. Many growers commented on the significance of diurnal temperature variation in 2021, warm days through harvest being matched by cool nights, which are ideal for Nebbiolo – ripening tannins slowly, retaining aromatics and freshness. Growers commented that the key to the vintage was not so much the temperature differences in this diurnal variation but that the period over which there was a notable enough variation was significantly long. The best Barolo vintages share this pattern, along with a fairly extended harvest date well into October; so 2021 is, even on paper, a very fine vintage.In terms of tasting the wines, I really like the aromatic freshness, the flavours are clearly delineated from vineyard to vineyard and, though the wines possess ample tannin, they do not come across as foreboding. There is something of the balance and appeal of 2020 in the 2021s, though they are, in general, perhaps finer nuanced, less overtly ripe, more measured. They follow more classical lines in style, though they possess a certain suppleness and a touch of early drinking appeal. By no means is it the hard work it once was to taste young Barolo from bottle or barrel. I have tasted a good number of 2021s on several different visits to Piemonte and at several different stages of evolution; they have always showed more of their character than you might expect at such a young stage. Climate change has brought about a change in Barolo; we see far fewer vintages that deliver anything other than ripe fruit, and warmer vintages have led to a slight softening of the Barolo tannins. Winemaking has also evolved in time with climate change and the styles of Barolo that we see today will undoubtedly permit a broader window of drinking in comparison to some by-gone years that needed to be tucked away in a cool cellar for a lengthy snooze before being approachable. I think 2021 will prove to be a very successful vintage. Critics can argue the toss as to where it sits in the hierarchy of vintages, but whatever they decide is relatively academic, as I feel certain that 2021 will give an awful lot of pleasure to fans of Barolo and may well assist in attracting new consumers to one of the world’s most fascinating of regions.The WinesI tend to prefer words to scores, but here you have both - an incredibly consistent run of scores and a whole host of superlatives in the tasting notes from me and a renowned critic. Instead of listing my notes alongside Antonio Galloni’s, I have added my thoughts here: The 2021 Barolo Classico is the best I have tasted here. It is an incredibly beautiful blend from four vineyards and delivers a vibrant, bright, accessible Barolo of great charm with remarkably refined tannins. Check the price. The Villero is a darkly fruited style with more spice, tobacco leaf even, with redder fruit characters emerging in the glass. While bolder in structure, the tannins are so beautifully expressed -powerful yes, but well-mannered. What a wine this is – I wrote that ‘the team at Oddero had knocked it out the park’ with this wine. The Rocche di Castiglione possesses that mineral infused, finely expressed fruit and early complexity that is so typical of this site, pure, refined and bursting with energy. Juicy, vibrant with tangy blood orange notes to the finish. Brunate captures that dark red and blue fruit quality with a certain minty aromatic. Beautifully intense, layered even and with a marked floral lift. Utterly exceptional. Then we tasted the pair of 2019 Riserva – the Rionda which showed just why this site is so famous, with the silkiest of texture to the tannins, rich, intense but such elegance and restraint. Sleek, complex and persistent. And the Mondoca, which frankly has to be a candidate for one of the very finest wines from this Cru, with its macerated cherry fruit, terrific intensity, marked floral lift and powerful yet finely expressed tannins.To say this tasting was a treat would be putting in mildly. Here are the notes and scores from Antonio Galloni as well as the prices, which if you ask me, are remarkably fair in the modern-day context of Barolo. Just look at what he has to say on each wine…..all the Crus from 2021 are scored 97 and above and the 2019 Riservas are on the same page!2021 Barolo, Poderi e Cantine Oddero£170 per 6 bottle case in bond92 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com The 2021 Barolo is fabulous. Aromatic, pliant and wonderfully inviting. Oddero's Barolo shows just how appealing this vintage is. Crushed flowers, red/blue-toned fruit, spice and perfumed notes build nicely in the glass. Polished, silky tannins wrap it all together in style. Vineyard sources are Bricco Chiesa, Capalot, Bricco Fiasco and a bit of Galina. 2025-2033 2021 Barolo, Villero, Poderi e Cantine Oddero£420 per 6 bottle case in bond98 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.comThe 2021 Barolo Villero soars from the glass with intensely spiced, balsamic-tinged aromatics. Deceptively medium in body, with superb persistence and class, the 2021 is simply magnificent. Beams of tannin shape the unforgettable, persistent finish. This is another wine that demands patience. The Villero is not an easy wine, rather it is a Barolo that offers a more inward, at times intellectual, expression of Nebbiolo. 2028-2046. 2021 Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione, Poderi e Cantine Oddero£495 per 6 bottle case in bond97 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.comThe 2021 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a classic wine from this site. Vibrant, focused and finely cut, the 2021 dazzles with finesse. Crushed rocks, mint, slate, white pepper, mint and orange peel all race across the palate. The 2021 Rocche is everything Barolo is everything it can be. I especially admire its intensely saline energy. This is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. 2028-2046 2021 Barolo, Brunate, Poderi e Cantine Oddero£525 per 6 bottle case in bond97 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com The 2021 Barolo Brunate is another stellar wine in this range of magnificent 2021s from Oddero. Dark and intensely balsamic, this is an archetype of Brunate. Black cherry, blood orange, spice, menthol, spice and new leather open with reticence. Today, I find the 2021 rather compact. Then again, this is Brunate. Readers will want to give this a few years in the cellar at a minimum. 2028-20462019 Barolo Riserva, Bussia Vigna Mondoca, Poderi e Cantine Oddero£525 per 6 bottle case in bond96 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous,comThe 2019 Barolo Riserva Bussia Vigna Mondoca is every bit as haunting in its beauty as it was last year. A Barolo of dynamic energy and nuance, the Bussia is sublime. Cedar, incense, blood orange, kirsch, rose petal and dried herbs confer classicism. The 2019 is, quite simply, sublime. That's all there is to it. 2027-20412019 Barolo Riserva, Vigna Rionda, Poderi e Cantine Oddero£840 per 6 bottle case in bond97 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.comWhat a delight it is to re-taste the 2019 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda. A wine of pure and total sensuality, the 2019 captures the essence of Rionda in its silky, perfumed personality and compelling inner sweetness. All the elements are so nicely balanced. This is pure and total class. 2028-2046 The prices are sharp, the volumes are low, so if you are interested, don’t delay.Please let us know of your interest.Simonsimon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com
Sublime and ridiculous: De Sousa, Cuvée des Caudalies NV
Sublime and ridiculous: Champagne De Sousa, Cuvée des Caudalies NVThere are excellent wines to be found at this address, in particular the Caudelie range produced from domaine fruit... and they deserve to be better known among Anglophone wine lovers.William Kelley, robertparker.com, August 2022De Sousa, Cuvée des Caudalies, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Extra Brut NV (Disgorged 2023)£330 per 6 bottle case in bond
De Sousa, a Champagne House seemingly incapable of making anything other than spellbinding champagne.It is some time since we offered De Sousa’s non-vintage Cuvée des Caudalies but we are absolutely delighted to be able to do so again now. This is a cuvée that in so many ways embodies the essence of De Sousa. As an Avize-based family, this is 100% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs Grand Cru vineyards of Avize, Mesnil and Cramant. The vines are old, in this case more than 60 years old. Farming, as with all of the family’s vineyards, is biodynamic. The wines are fermented and aged in oak barrels for added subtlety and complexity. The care for and commitment to their land, their vines, the wider environment is evident in everything they do and was recognised recently in a Slow Food award for sustainability. This is not a family looking to use the Grand Cru status as a marketing tool on their label but instead a family committed to continuously elevating quality in Grand Cru vineyards, ensuring that they are worthy of their status and, through their farming methods, that they will continue to be so. The De Sousas own vines on land that can yield greatness and greatness is what they aim to yield from it. They seem to be succeeding admirably.We should no longer be amazed at the sheer purity of the fruit that is unwaveringly expressed in these magnificent wines yet we are. Each time we taste and retaste, we marvel. Much of the marvelling is also because the prices of the De Sousa wines remains so ridiculously reasonable.The Cuvée des Caudalies is, as already mentioned, 100% Grand Cru fruit from some of the greatest Chardonnay villages of the Cote des Blancs. The first fermentation is 100% in oak barrels of which 8% are new. The resultant base wine is then blended in a 50:50 ratio with “reserve perpétuelle” wines from a reserve that was started in 1995 and which thus brings an astonishing complexity to a this non-vintage cuvée. This is a champagne of incredible focus and finesse, a champagne of subtle power and overarching poise. It is a champagne of sublime quality and ridiculous price. Champagne De Sousa, Cuvée des Caudalies, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Extra Brut NV (Disgorged 2023)£330 per 6 bottle case in bondA model of purity, the nose displays a citrus precision together with deeper fruit notes of apricot and cooked pineapple. There is a sublimely subtle creamy touch, buttered toast, delicate nutty notes too. Such complexity and finesse. The palate is luxuriant yet vibrant, the mousse caressing but underpinned by a clean, fresh citrus energy. The combination of depth and presence with lightness of touch and elegance is hugely appealing. This is so long, so fresh, so finessed. Spellbinding. Drink 2025-2033 (ROM)
BUY DE SOUSA CAUDALIES NV
Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash
After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. It has always been our view that it was a misunderstood vintage; wines from this year have shown appreciably better after a little time in bottle, having been difficult to read when very young. From the wines shown, the Barolo Prapo from Ettore Germano impressed clients with its cherry red fruit – for a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, a commune known for richness and power, this is an incredibly pretty example, vintage in, vintage out. Chiara Boschis’ blended Barolo, Via Nuova, drawn from various crus from the across the region, received plenty of praise from clients, too. Perhaps the wine that impressed most from this selection was Vietti’s Cerequio 2018, which showed blue fruit touches, a fine freshness and those slightly rounder tannins that are common to La Morra. The 2019s were a last-minute addition and were the two single vineyard wines of Andrea Bosco which offered an opportunity to compare a Barolo from the lighter soils of Verduno with a richer wine from La Morra; respectively, the wonderfully refined Agostino Bosco, Barolo, Neirane and the darker, brooding Agostino Bosco, Barolo, La Serra. Clients seemed interested in how these two most recent vintages would shape up in time. While the 2019s are the product of hot year, these showed how that vintage manages to show a certain classicism. They will warrant 8 to 10 years in bottle before showing in their prime. In contrast, the 2018s, with their lighter accent, are already starting to show well, even if some of the leading examples will still demand 4- or 5-years patience before really starting to sing. The 2017 table was, for me personally, one of the most fascinating. Not only were some of the region’s most notable growers featured in this line up, but it showcased a vintage that I fear has been a little overlooked. 2017 was a hot and dry vintage and in an earlier era I don’t believe the wines would have come through as well as they have. Growers have had to adapt to modern day conditions in Barolo; whatever way you cut it, this is down to climate change. As I remarked to various clients, in the 1990s there were perhaps three notable vintages which delivered ripe fruit and fine structure, other vintages in which many growers lost precision and freshness in their wines but a greater number of years in which it proved tough to ripen Nebbiolo fully. Leaf-plucking became routine to expose the fruit to the sun and allow aeration. Rolling the clock forward, between 2010 and 2020 we have not had a bad vintage. There have been challenging conditions, but we have had four great vintages - 2010, 2013, 2016 and 2019. Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.
