Two highly individual Argentinian Chardonnays - 'I am totally smitten' SL
The unifying factor throughout the roster is unwavering clarity, focus and precision.
Matthew Luczy, robertparker.com, May 2025
2023 Chardonnay Botánico, Zuccardi
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
2023 Chardonnay Fósil, Zuccardi
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
For some time now, I have known that Argentina is capable of producing outstanding site-specific Chardonnay, particularly from the Uco Valley. These two new releases from Familia Zuccardi show incredibly well, they show how far things have come and they show how individual sites in Argentina are capable of producing completely different styles. Both of these are very highly recommended.
Zuccardi was founded in 1963 by Alberto Zuccardi, an engineer from Tucuman, who initially moved to Mendoza to test irrigation systems on vines. He ended up founding an estate in the Uco Valley, effectively in the foothills of the Andes, where vineyards can rise to as much as 1,500 metres over sea level. Today, the estate is led by Sebastian Zuccardi, the third generation, and his focus has placed Zuccardi at the forefront of the move towards terroir or site-specific wines.
I tasted these two contrasting Chardonnay this morning, both from the warm 2023 vintage. There is so much to like about each. The Botánico comes from the highly rated Gualtallary sub-zone of the Uco Valley, home to Catena’s White Stones and White Bones, which we have offered previously. This sandy, limestone based vineyard produces a wine that marries ripe, bold fruit with notes of nectarine, Cox’s apple and orangey citrus, a note of aromatic herbs to a distinctly mineral acidity. It has terrific drive and focus as well as impressive purity. The bolder of the two Chardonnay, this is very classy indeed, with nothing out of place. The saline finish leaves the mouth watering and me reaching for another taste. I left the wine to breathe and it just got better and better. The Fosil, which comes from San Pablo, also in the Uco Valley, at an altitude of 1400 metres on alluvial based soils with a high stone/ gravel content is a different wine altogether. Paler in colour, with taut, lemon/ lime fruit with fine tension and distinctive herbal, mineral nuances. It reveals a stunning poise, fine texture and powerful finish. It reminds me of the White Bones from Gualtallary by Catena in style , which is high praise for wine which is effectively half the price!
These are an absolute joy to taste – both are impressively made. Neither wine went through malo-lactic fermentation, which means they have retained a lively, bright acidity, though you would be pushed to spot that particularly with the Botanico, and both we aged in concrete as opposed to oak, which has ensured they retain an outstanding clarity of fruit. There is nothing else to say… These are outstanding wines in their category; the result of impressive terroirs and sensitive winemaking
I am totally smitten, as is Joaquin Hidalgo from vinous.com – see his notes below.
2023 Chardonnay Botánico, Zuccardi
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
96 points, Joaquín Hidalgo, vinous.com, October 2024
A rising star in the Familia Zuccardi portfolio, the 2023 Chardonnay Botánico comes from their vineyards in Gualtallary, Tupungato. Fermented and aged in concrete, the warm 2023 vintage saw harvest occur nearly a week earlier than in 2022, as early as the beginning of February. The 2023 reveals subtle herbal aromas of vermouth, lavender and herbs with a hint of hops. Broad and fairly rich, with good tension on the palate, it finishes with a touch of green apple. A true reflection of its origins, its chalky texture defines the mouthfeel. Drink 2024-2034
2023 Chardonnay Fósil, Zuccardi
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
97 points, Joaquín Hidalgo, vinous.com, October 2024
The 2023 Chardonnay Fósil is a statement of intent—a vineyard planted in San Pablo with the aim of producing great wine. Ever since its first release, the 2016 vintage, Fósil has quickly established itself as a high-altitude white with a refreshing, non-ripe profile. Even in a warm vintage like 2023, the Chardonnay Fósil offers herbal and reductive notes, with hints of huacatay (a native Andean herb) alongside lime and lemon, all set against a soft backdrop of linden blossom. Lean and vibrant, the palate is pure and chalky in texture, flowing with a light, compact feel. The 2023 vintage solidifies its terroir-driven character. Drink 2024-2034
Please let us know of your interest.
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com