'Thoroughly classic Rioja' (JH) - C.V.N.E. Imperial Gran Reserva Rioja 2019
It's harmonious and balanced, with elegant, polished and sleek tannins.
Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com, February 2025
C.V.N.E. Imperial Gran Reserva Rioja 2019
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
£250 per 3 magnum case in bond
£200 per individual double magnum in bond
I remember visiting CVNE in Haro to taste the 2005 vintage in October 2007. A memorable tasting at one of the truly great, historic estates of Rioja, dating back to 1879 and still family owned.
What I recall most from that tasting of their iconic Imperial Gran Reserva was the finesse of the tannins despite the nascent state of the wine. I was reminded of this when I tasted the just released 2019 Imperial Gran Reserva yesterday afternoon, though this time in (a sadly somewhat more dreary) London.
The 2019 is the product of a vintage that the Consejo Regulador – the Regulatory Council of Rioja – classified as “Excelente”, the highest vintage qualification and one which 2005 similarly enjoyed. In fact, prior to 2019, there are only five other vintages this century to have received this accolade – 2011, 2010, 2005, 2004 and 2001 – with only nine more such vintages in the 20th century. The 2019 growing season began cold and wet, provoking an irregular flowering and a consequent reduction in the potential yield. Fortunately, the weather improved through the summer and warm dry conditions prevailed, meaning the fruit ripened fully and in excellent health. While yields were lower therefore, quality was extremely high.
The fruit for the Imperial Gran Reserva all comes from vineyards in the Rioja Alta subzone, including from plots at between 550 and 650 metres altitude which brings a cooler profile and plots with low-yielding bush vines on southern facing slopes which bring an undeniable intensity. All vine parcels are more than 40 years old. The wine itself is 85% Tempranillo with 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, all fruit being hand harvested and rigorously sorted before fermentation in wooden vats, malolactic fermentation in concrete tanks and then ageing in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels for two years before a further 3 years in bottle before release.
Tasted yesterday, the 2019 Imperial Gran Reserva displays a tight core of fruit but fruit of such purity, precision and perfect ripeness. Pristine, healthy aromatics lead into a palate that is so silky despite its youth, the tannins are ripe and fine. There is an overriding sense of harmony, indicative of the quality of the vintage, in a wine that is long with dark berry and plum fruit and seamless tannins. I was further reminded that a great wine is normally evidently great from the outset in the sense that balance cannot be added later. Something so harmonious at the outset must remain so into old age.
The 2019 is utterly in keeping with the style of this exceptional Rioja, showing a richness and intensity of dark berry fruit allied to a subtle spice note underpinned by a cushioned, silky texture. I could add that, having tasted a number of other vintages at the same time, there is a clarity to the fruit in this vintage that is on another level, certainly supporting the attribute of “excelente”.
Yet the price remains incredibly modest for such a flagship wine.
C.V.N.E. Imperial Gran Reserva Rioja 2019
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
£250 per 3 magnum case in bond
£200 per individual double magnum in bond
95 points, Joaquin Hidalgo, vinous.com, May 2025
The 2019 Gran Reserva Imperial is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo. Following malolactic fermentation in concrete vats, it aged for two years in 225-liter French (70%) and American (30%) oak barrels—both new and second use. It underwent rackings every eight months, before extended aging in century-old cellars. This opens with ripe black fruit and plum aromas, framed by well-integrated oak and subtle herbal notes. It displays a delicate style in the mouth, with fine, chalky tannins and a hint of dried herbs on the finish. The 2019 is a refined, flavorful red in a thoroughly classic Rioja tone. Drink 2025-2039
95 points, Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com, February 2025
2019 was a warm and classical year of healthy grapes, and the 2019 Imperial Gran Reserva is a powerful version only produced in exceptional years. Produced with a blend of Tempranillo with 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, it fermented in oak vats with their own selected yeasts, and the wine matured for two years in new and used barriques, 80% of them French and the rest American. It has a classical nose, with notes of dry leaves, truffle, cigar ash and dark spices and a touch of iodine and earth. It comes in at 14% alcohol, with a pH of 3.63 and 5.67 grams of acidity. It's harmonious and balanced, with elegant, polished and sleek tannins. 56,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022. Drink 2025-2040
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Richard
richard.omahony@atlasfinewines.com