The 2021 Blanc is a real gem this year
Yohan Castaing
2021 Château Couhins Blanc, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan
£125 per 6 bottle case in bond
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White Bordeaux continues to fascinate us. So much of it remains distinctly uninspiring. But we are still committed to unearthing gems from within this sea of Sauvignon and Semillon. We have long admired the phenomenal Les Champs Libres from the Guinedeau family of Château Lafleur, for example. And in late 2020, we offered a parcel of the outstanding 2016 Château Gazin-Rocquencourt Blanc, a wine which continues to drink so well and be enjoyed by many Atlas clients.
We have found another. 2021 Château Couhins Blanc at £125 per 6 bottle case in bond. This is a white Graves that impressed us when we tasted at en primeur release, and which has really come into its own in bottle. It is showing vibrancy and freshness with a citrus and mineral-infused quality that is highly appealing and appetising.
Château Couhins has a long history, dating back to the 17th century and it enjoyed great renown in the first half of the 20th century. Under the ownership of the Gasqueton family of Calon-Ségur, it gained recognition as a Cru Classé de Graves in 1959. However, in 1962 with passing of Edouard Gasqueton, it fell into disrepair and was sold by his family in 1968. The buyer was the Institut National de la Recherche pour l'Agriculture, l'Alimentation et l'Environnement (the French National Institute of Agricultural Research). This ownership structure has fostered a culture of research and development over numerous decades, including mapping of vineyards, selection of better and more suitable vine material, soil and drainage improvements. New cellars have been built and the attention to detail and the striving for continuous improvement is clear.
More recently, Sauvignon Blanc has been planted on some northern slopes that were previously unused due to their cooler microclimate. The clay-limestone soils here help retain water and thus combat the increasingly common drought conditions. It is these vineyards that therefore contribute to the success of Château Couhins Blanc and allow it to retain the remarkable tension and energy that is evident in this 2021.
The 2021 Château Couhins Blanc is a tremendous bottle of wine and represents incredible value at £125 per 6 bottle case in bond. It is available for immediate delivery should you so wish.
2021 Château Couhins Blanc, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan
£125 per 6 bottle case in bond
92 points, Yohan Castaing, robertparker.com, February 2024
Like its red counterpart, the 2021 Blanc is a real gem this year, evoking a smoky, flinty and slightly reduced bouquet with aromas of spring flowers, white flowers, lemon oil and citrus. Moderately weighted, satiny and incisive, it has bright acids and a long, mineral, saline, iodine-inflected finish. While it offers plenty of immediate charm, it also has the structure to age well. This blend is crafted from 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Sauvignon Gris, aged for eight months in 20% new oak barrels and 80% in a mixture of used barrels of 225, 300 and 500 liters. Drink 2024-2034
93 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, February 2024
The 2021 Couhins Blanc turned out beautifully. Bright and focused, the 2021 possesses tons of verve that gives the wine its distinctive character. Lemon peel, sage, mint, crushed rocks and slate all race out of the glass. This is impeccably done. Drink 2024-2036
