William Kelley
Adrien Renoir, Grand Cru, Le Terroir, Extra Brut NV
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
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At the weekend I had the chance to enjoy a Champagne that we first offered a little over a year ago, namely Adrien Renoir, Grand Cru, Le Terroir, Extra Brut. Having tasted this on various occasions now, I totally share William Kelley's enthusiasm for the wines of this emerging talent.
The Grand Cru, Le Terroir offers up beautifully pure, crystalline fruit with floral, citrus and orchard fruit aromas together with subtle but classic patisserie notes, all leading into a palate which shows a fine mousse and a silky, caressing texture before finishing fresh, clean, mineral and vibrant.
By way of background, Adrien Renoir owns around 7 hectares of vines, 6 of which lie in the Grand Cru village of Verzy, For their own domaine bottlings, only the finest 5 hectares of Verzy vineyards are used, with the remainder of their grapes being sold off to other domaines. Adrien is part of an exciting new wave of Champenois producers who are giving their inherited old vines (Renoir’s vines average 40 years of age) new life. Adrien started farming organically as soon as he took over in 2016 and gained organic certification in 2019. He also uses biodynamic practices, though is not yet certified.
As for Adrien's approach, it ticks all the boxes we tend to look for in the Champagnes we offer – Grand Cru fruit, extended lees ageing (24 months), and low dosage (around 1 gram per litre) – these are wines of structure and complexity, built to age.
If you bought some previously, it is perhaps time to take delivery and enjoy. If you didn't, it is perhaps time to snap up a case or two!
Adrien Renoir, Grand Cru, Le Terroir, Extra Brut NV
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
93+ points, William Kelley December 2023
Disgorged in November 2022 with one gram per liter dosage, Renoir's new NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru Le Terroir (2019 base) has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet pear, orange, white flowers and buttery pasty, followed by a medium to full-bodied, pillowy and vinous palate with a concentrated core of fruit and a racy, chiseled profile, animated by a refined pinpoint mousse. It's a touch richer than its 2019 counterpart, but it remains nicely dynamic. Drink 2023-2033