NEW RELEASES - The outstanding single vineyard 2018 Barbaresco from La Ca' Nova

November 30, 2020

‘La Ca' Nova is, in my view, quite possibly the greatest Barbaresco estate most people have not heard about. Yet. The wines, from two of the very top sites in town, are magnificent.’ Antonio Galloni, August 2019.

This is just one of the many plaudits that have been heaped on La Ca’ Nova, so if you are interested in Barbaresco or the wines of Piemonte, La Ca’ Nova is a name with which you should already be familiar. If you are not, then it’s time to catch up!

Last year, when we released the 2017s, I commented that the winemaker, Marco Rocca, is incredibly modest and unassuming, but you nonetheless note a certain confidence. He has been championed by various wine critics, and tipped to be running the hottest property in Barbaresco right now, but he shrugs it off with a smile and reminds us that he remembers when he used to send tasting samples to critics and hear nothing back. All this changed a few years ago, but Marco is happy, quietly carrying on, tending his vines and making remarkably fine Barbaresco. Nothing much has changed, and having tasted his 2018s last week, I can confirm he has an impressive set of wines in the 2018 vintage.

This estate is run on reassuringly traditional lines; the approach may adapt to conditions, but it is a question of gradual refinement rather than wholesale change. The Rocca family started producing their own Barbaresco in the 1970s from several of the region’s leading Crus, including Montestefano (approximately 270 metres above sea level and facing full south) and Montefico (within which the family own a parcel in the Bric Mentina vineyard). While the altitude in Montefico is virtually the same as Montestefano, the orientation is more south-east facing. Montestefano produces more powerful, deeper styles, whereas Montefico reveals a terrific elegance and a slightly gentler expression. In terms of manner of production, there is no temperature control during fermentation and towards the end of fermentation, Marco employs an approach called steccatura, which keeps the skins submerged for a post-fermentation maceration of 15-20 days to extract more from the fruit. The wines are then aged in 30-hectolitre Austrian oak botti (which Marco prefers to the more widely used Slavonian oak) for a minimum of 18 months.

What of the 2018 vintage? With slightly less power than the 2016 vintage, Marco explained the 2018 is a juicy vintage in terms of fruit concentration, calling it a ‘vintage of finesse instead of power’. He comments that ‘2018 started with early budding thanks to the relatively warm Spring here in Barbaresco, so avoiding any risk of frost damage on the grapes. Despite a wet May and June with cooler temperatures than the norm, summer returned and proved to be warm and long. Harvest commenced in good conditions in the second week of October, not dissimilar to the timing in 2016’. Marco cited the difference between day and nighttime temperatures as being significant, delaying ripening and therefore giving his Nebbiolo vines the additional time they needed to ripen their fruit while maintaining their acidity. Marco’s comments contrast starkly with a discussion I had on Zoom last week with a grower in Barolo, who commented that the 2018 was a very challenging vintage with mixed results.

It is always a pleasure to taste Marco’s wines, whether in situ as would normally be the case, or indeed as samples as received last week. The 2018s show fine purity and the character of the vineyards is beautifully showcased, the bright, more linear and structured Montestefano and the more rounded, darker fruited Montefico, not forgetting the early drinking appeal of the fragrant, supple fruited normale Barbaresco. I doubt that that there are stronger values than these three wines in Piemonte – the value for money offered by this set never fails to amaze me. Simply put, these should be an automatic purchase for any Nebbiolo fan.

2018 Barbaresco, La Ca’ Nova

£110 per 6 bottle case in bond

Made from younger vine fruit grown in the Cru vineyards of Montestefano, Montefico, Ovello and Cole. The 2018 is very classical in style, already complex with a bright, juicy array of red fruits with notes of mint and subtle spice. At first this vintage seemed restrained but with time in the glass the fruit opened out and the early drinking appeal of this style came to the fore. This a stylish young-vine Barbaresco which seems to share a similarity with the Montestefano – clearly lighter and less powerful, but the resemblance is there. Already starting to show well. Drink 2021-2026 (SL)

2018 Barbaresco, Montefico, ‘Vigna Bric Mentina’, La Ca’ Nova

£135 per 6 bottle case in bond

The first of La Ca’ Nova’s single vineyard Barbaresco, ‘Vigna Bric Mentina’ in the Cru of Montefico is named in memory of Marco’s grandmother, Clementina. This is one of the more impressive vintages for Montefico that I recall; the nose suggests an enticing mix of deep, juicy fruits, fragrant red fruit notes overlay duskier black fruit. The palate shows a lovely richness, and that same deep fruit with a balsamic touch – really pure, really stylish. Notes of mint, cinnamon and Asian spice add complexity to this impressively layered Barbaresco. This rich wine needs a few years to settle down but holds very fine potential. As is always the case, there is a precision and intensity here, which mark this wine as special, with mineral, saline notes emerging to the finish. Impressive. Drink 2023-2032 (SL)

2018 Barbaresco, Montestefano, La Ca’ Nova

£135 per 6 bottle case in bond

It is so fascinating to taste the Montestefano and the Montefico side by side – they benefit from the exact same winemaking but represent such different styles. The Montestefano is a shade lighter in the glass, more aromatic too. There is a terrific sense of tension here, with a juicy, bright fruit carried on a wave of underlying mineral nuances. Savoury notes gently build too in this assertive Barbaresco, adding colour to the dark cherry and damson fruit. Hints of lavender, sage, mint and liquorice are all discernible in this focused, taut Barbaresco. The 2018 shows very fine length – a more linear, structured Barbaresco as we have come to expect, but the richness and persistence signal a very fine vintage. Drink 2024-2034 (SL)

2018 won’t be a vintage for generalisations as conditions will have varied across the region, but on this showing there will be some very fine wines to offer, though few at such favourable prices.

Please let us know of your interest.

All the best,

Simon

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Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash

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Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.

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