NEW RELEASES: The latest, unmissable Champagnes from Egly-Ouriet

October 18, 2024

NEW RELEASES
The latest, unmissable Champagnes from Egly-Ouriet

Recent releases from Egly have been consistently nothing short of spectacular

William Kelley, robertparker.com, August 2022

A visit to Egly-Ouriet last year underlined so many of my previous observations.

1. Few producers in Champagne hit the heights of Egly-Ouriet
2. Few producers deliver the consistently high quality of the wines of Egly Ouriet
3. Few producers deliver that consistency up and down the scale as Egly-Ouriet does
4. Few people have the drive and focus of Francis Egly
5. Few Champagnes offer greater value than Egly’s Brut Grand Cru

If you have followed the wines of Egly-Ouriet over the last few years, these comments won’t be new to you, but their validity remains, nonetheless.

I don’t say it lightly, but I have never had a bad bottle of Egly-Ouriet, and I have had a good few over the years, most recently the outstanding Vignes de Vrigny earlier this week – a wine that drew superlatives from my guests. The quality and consistency up and down the scale are awe-inspiring. It takes meticulous attention to detail to achieve this; the wines barely fluctuate, despite the differences in blend that take place year on year. Simply put, this estate ranks as one of the very best producers in all of Champagne (and I include all in that statement).

I have written it before, but every time I get the chance to taste an Egly-Ouriet Champagne I am struck by the precision and purity. They are highly individual Champagnes that are now receiving the credit they are due. Certainly, over the last decade, critics have started to recognise the quality inherent in these Champagnes and, consequently, stocks tick through a lot faster than they used to and pressure on allocations is significantly greater. Luckily, we receive good allocations and regularly hold the NV Grand Cru Extra Brut in stock, which invariably shows far better for a year or two in bottle.

As a company we focus on individual grower Champagnes over and above the wines of the Grandes Marques and larger producers. Why? Simply put, it is a combination of quality, value and individuality. If these wines have increased in price, it is on account of market demand, rather than marketing expenditure. The Eglys are not obsessed with product positioning, nor are they shelling out on sponsorship, instead they are solely focused on producing the finest wines they can, and they are highly skilled at that. I still struggle to understand why clients pay more for a lesser wine just because it is from a familiar, promoted name, when many of the most exciting wines in champagne emanate from smaller-scale growers who have holdings on specific terroirs.

Antonio Galloni and William Kelley regularly heap praise on Egly-Ouriet, with William Kelley most recently commenting 'Francis Egly has done it again. I've written at length in the End of April 2021 Issue 254 of The Wine Advocate about this estate's perfectionist methods and distinctive philosophy. Recent releases from Egly have been consistently nothing short of spectacular.’ He is yet to write up the new releases, including the 2015 Millésime, as is Antonio Galloni, but we anticipate strong reviews once more.

And for those of you who may not know the background of the estate, here is my short summary of the key points, which I hope is useful in giving a brief overview:

- Egly’s wines draw on fruit from old vines in the Grand Cru villages of Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay. This comment applies to his superb NV Grand Cru Extra Brut as much as to the most heralded wines in his range, in all of which only Grand Cru fruit is employed. The only exceptions are the Vignes de Vrigny, which is made from Premier Cru-classified Pinot Meunier, the relatively recently introduced ‘Les Premices’ from Trigny and the Vignes de Bisseuil, also classified Premier Cru.

- All of Egly’s wines are aged well beyond the norm before release. Nothing is hurried at all chez Egly; each cuvée benefits, in terms of complexity, from extended ageing of at least four years on lees in bottle, way ahead of the statutory minimum for Champagne. The Vieillissement Prolongé (or V.P. for short) is the most extreme example, spending 84 months on its lees.

- All of Egly’s wines are low dosage (dosage relates to the amount of sugar in the liqueur d’expedition that is added after the disgorgement process. This adjusts the wine’s overall sweetness/dryness). In Egly’s wines, there is nothing to mar the sheer purity.

- All of Egly’s wines are capable of developing in bottle, growing in complexity – this comment applies to the NV Grand Cru Extra Brut as it does across the range-

- And finally, these wines are produced in smaller quantities than most of the Champagnes with which you may be familiar; they are not seeking to further the aspirations of a brand, but rather to represent their origins. They are a far cry from some of the near-debased, commercial output of many famous names in Champagne. Making wines of such high and unerring quality requires not only considerable practical skill, but equally near maniacal focus. That’s exactly what you get with Egly-Ouriet.

NV Les Prémices
£220 per 6 bottle case in bond
An equal blend of the three Champagne varieties, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. The fruit comes from the village of Trigny in the Massif de Saint-Thierry. 50% from the 2020 vintage. 30% from 2019 and 20% from 2018. Dosage: Just 1 gram per litre.

NV Les Vignes de Vrigny 1er Cru
£270 per 6 bottle case in bond
A cuvée which is made exclusively from old vines of Pinot Meunier. The fruit comes from the Vrigny vineyard which is classified Premier Cru. 50% from the 2020 vintage, 30% from 2019 and 20% from 2018. Dosage: Just 1 gram per litre.

NV Les Vignes de Bisseuil 1er Cru
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
The latest addition to the range is Les Vignes de Bisseuil This a Chardonnay-dominant cuvée – something highly unusual chez Egly-Ouriet, where Pinot Noir is normally in the ascendancy. 70% Chardonnay with 15% each of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The base wine is vinified in wood, then aged in their cellars for four years before disgorgement. 50% from the 2019 vintage, 30% from 2018, and 20% from 2017. Dosage: Just 1 gram per litre.

NV Grand Cru Extra Brut
£325 per 6 bottle case in bond
Purely from Grand Cru fruit from their vineyards in Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay. The flagship NV is vinified entirely in wood, and the base wines are aged on their lees for approaching a year. No corners are cut here, the wine clarifies slowly as would have been the practice in a bygone era. The assemblage is always 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. 50% from the 2019 vintage, 30% from 2018 and 20% from 2017. Dosage : 2 grams per litre.

NV Grand Cru Rosé
(LIMITED TO ONE CASE PER CLIENT)
£450 per 6 bottle case in bond
The Grand Cru Rosé comes from the same vineyards as the NV Brut Grand Cru, namely Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay. It is vinified entirely in wood. 5% of still Pinot Noir from the estate’s Coteaux Champenois vineyards is blended in, so this is a rosé made by blending still red wine rather than by the saignée method (where colour bleeds from the skins). 50% is from the 2019 vintage, 30% is from 2018 and 20% is from 2017. The assemblage is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Dosage : Just 1 gram per litre.

NV Grand Cru V.P. (Vieillisement Prolongé)
(LIMITED TO ONE CASE PER CLIENT)
£450 per 6 bottle case in bond
An extraordinary wine which is aged for 7 years on its lees before disgorgement. Once more it is vinified entirely in wood. It is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay and demonstrates the capacity that Grand Cru vineyards have in producing fruit with the structure to age long-term. 50% comes from the 2016 vintage, 30% from 2015 and 20% from 2014. Dosage : 1 gram per litre.

NV Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs, Les Crayères, Vieilles Vignes
(LIMITED TO ONE CASE PER CLIENT)
£1,050 per 6 bottle case in bond
Arguably the finest wine produced by the Eglys, this wine comes from a parcel of old Pinot Noir vines planted in 1946/1947. The vines are planted on an exceptional terroir where the chalk is apparent at just 30cm and extends to several dozen metres in depth, hence the name of the vineyard, Les Crayères. The roots of the vines have worked their way deep into the chalk, picking up a distinctive chalky minerality, outstanding elegance too, while the old Pinot vines bring notes of red fruits and a noticeable power and concentration. This cuvée has the capacity to age long-term. It is entirely vinified in oak. 50% is from the 2017 vintage and 50% from 2016. Dosage – Just 1 gram per litre.

2015 Grand Cru Brut Millésime
(LIMITED TO ONE CASE PER CLIENT)
£1,890 per 6 bottle case in bond
2015 was a very fine vintage for Egly, without any climatic issues. It was a sunny, warm vintage and, subsequently, yields were low, but a fine ripeness was achieved. Harvest commenced on the 20th September. The resultant wine is very well balanced, with fine concentration of fruit. The Eglys believe it needs patience to show its true potential. It was vinified entirely in oak and is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Dosage : Just 1 gram per litre.

This is an incredible offer to be able to bring to your attention. We are delighted to work with growers of this calibre as every year the wines are utterly fascinating – without fail. If you have a particular event coming up in a couple of years or so, you would be well advised to consider laying down a few cases of the Grand Cru Extra Brut, as this wine will reward that bit extra time in bottle – it is far from a standard non-vintage cuvée coming as it does from purely Grand Cru vineyards. It would certainly add to any occasion.

We are pleased to secure a great allocation from Egly, but we buy their wines on a ratio basis, therefore we would ask for balanced orders, and various cuvées must be limited to one case per client as highlighted and subject to availability. Not a single wine here will disappoint.

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All about balance: 2023 Burgundy Vintage Report

All about balance: 2023 Burgundy Vintage ReportMore juice just might be the secret to balancing the excesses of the increasingly common warmer vintages that Burgundy is witnessing. And 2023 certainly provided more juice. It was a large-yielding vintage; cellars are full of young wine gently maturing in bottle, barrel, amphora, glass bulb, vat... Half empty cellars have become a more normal sight. Low yields have been the consequence of early season crop loss due to frost and summers that have been hot and dry, causing berry size to be reduced, resulting in a dramatic absence of juice. Plentiful yields posing a different challenge to growersIn 2023, the crop was so vast that growers had to actively reduce yield in order to harvest below the maximum permitted levels of 35 to 45 hectolitres per hectare; in some instances, the reduction required was more than 50%. Comparison to yields of other recent vintages is startling. 2022 could be termed a vintage dominated by drought, so in 2023, given the rainfall, the vines overcompensated as is so often the case in such conditions.Higher juice in berries reducing excesses of alcohol and densityIn a bygone age, high yield would have carried with it a fear of dilution, a word which carried overwhelmingly negative connotations. But perhaps it depends on the starting point. Without doubt, ‘new normal’, modern Burgundy vintages are characterised by far greater density and concentration of fruit than was ever previously the case; alcohol levels approaching, or exceeding, fourteen degrees have not been out of the question. In such an era, dilution is, actually, most welcome as it can lead to wines with a far greater sense of balance. The question of increasing yield in the face of advancing concentration will become a frequent discussion point in future vintages, we have little doubt.Theory has it that Pinot Noir suffers under high yields; anything in excess of 40 hectolitres per hectare is detrimental to quality. Theory has also suggested that Pinot Noir requires a long, even growing season to produce high quality wines. Yet many recent Burgundy vintages could hardly be described as long, or even, even. Consequently, much of the traditional theory seems out of sync with modern conditions and outcomes. Given the levels of fruit concentration that we are witnessing in Burgundy and other French regions over recent vintages the topic of allowing higher yields has been mooted as this would bring greater fluidity to the wines as well as moderating the alcohol content a touch.Great sense of freshness and vibrancyThe issue is that we have not witnessed a vintage with yields this high in ‘the modern era’ – some commentators are citing that such volume has not been seen since 1982. And as Jasper Morris writes: For many producers it was the largest crop on record. We’ll take their word for it. Steen Ohman’s description of the vintage seems apt, ‘red and white 2023(s) are painting with a big brush and generous strokes. Some love this [he does] with all the positive traits of generosity.’ Steen sees it as a hedonistic vintage more than a precise vintage. (It is important to understand that for him ‘hedonistic’ does not carry any notion of wines being overripe or overblown but merely that the wines have a profoundly pleasurable drinkability.)So, let’s conclude that quantity is significant and move onto what we should expect of such an unusual vintage qualitatively. The honest answer is likely to be variability. Different growers will have handled the burgeoning crop on their vines better than others, with green harvest (discarding unwanted fruit) and timing of harvest particularly important in such a year. Equally, different terroirs will have performed differently, as will vines of differing ages.In terms of the growing season, it will be noted statistically as the warmest year on record, though much of that is attributable to milder winter/ spring conditions and less of a diurnal shift, meaning nights were warmer. 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Up until the end of August favourable warm conditions dominated with Jean-Pierre Latour, of Domaine Latour-Giraud, relating that there was intense heat between 10th and 25th August. At this point the weather turned appreciably cooler, and rain returned. September saw temperatures move dramatically up to thirty degrees and beyond, eventually culminating in a storm mid-month. This surge in heat pushed ripeness on at a pace, after a much steadier period in August. Concerns turned to rising alcohol levels, and therefore harvest was carried out rapidly across the Cote de Nuits, though it had begun at the end of August in the Cote de Beaune. With Jean-Pierre Latour, we discussed similarities with 2006, a vintage in which many whites had been picked just a little too late. This was not a mistake he was going to make in 2023. More widely, picking early in the day before temperatures grew was adopted by many estates. Vincent Lecheneaut picked between 6am and noon then stopped for the day; the harvested fruit was then held in a cold room to bring the temperature down to 5 degrees Celsius. Picking wasn’t the only significant task; sorting the fruit on reception at the cellars was hugely important in such a plentiful vintage as was finding the necessary resources to do so efficiently. Additionally, tank space was a challenge, given the requirement to ferment larger than normal quantities of juice.Lower alcohol levels than most recent vintagesOur growers reported being happy with the quality of fruit harvested and added that they were able to sort the fruit and discard anything not up to standard with ease, given the generous yield. Alcohols will be a bit lower than we have witnessed in recent hot vintages, coming in around 13%. The wines show bright acidity, in part due to the fact that the heat spikes burnt off the malic content in September, but temperatures were not so high as to reduce levels of tartaric acid, which remains importantly present in this vintage. Some growers elected to run off some juice in order to concentrate their wines a touch, which may well lead to more Bourgogne Rosé than the norm when releases are made! Bleeding off Pinot juice off the skins before extraction begins in earnest allows you to increase the skin to juice ratio and thereby the concentration. Quality-conscious growers handled such challenges well, producing perfumed Pinot, with surprising concentration, but no hint of excess or heady ripeness. Instead, they are underscored by bright acidity and reveal balanced alcohol levels.Whites and reds showing equal successThe whites also came through very well, with that comment on bright acidity signalling energy and focus. 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Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash

After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. 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Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.

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’Your service in organising and shipping my wine from the UK to California was excellent - quick, efficient and stress free’’.Jack K. Through our long-standing partnerships with trusted global shipping companies, Atlas Fine Wines provides comprehensive door-to-door services across the United States. Whether by air or sea freight, we handle all aspects of the shipment process. Recognising that costs and terms differ by state, we offer detailed quotations that outline the costs involved, including insurance. Additionally, we recommend temperature-controlled services for valuable and exceptionally rare fine wines. Our services cater to shipments of all sizes, ensuring a seamless experience for every client. You would also be provided with a link allowing you to track your consignment once it has cleared customs. For more information, or to discuss your requirements in more detail please send an email to: celine.larkin@atlasfinewines.com