Remarkable single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Hannes Storm

Remarkable single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Hannes Storm

2022 Pinot Noir, Vrede, Storm
2022 Pinot Noir, Ignis, Storm
2022 Pinot Noir, Ridge, Storm
 
2023 Chardonnay, Vrede, Storm
2023 Chardonnay, Ridge, Storm
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond
 
These are wonderful expressions of the two varieties from a winemaker that has that magic touch. 

Neal Martin, Vinous
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Yesterday I tasted the latest vintage of Hannes Storm's outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and once more his undoubted skills are on show.
With each new vintage, we see the single vineyard styles of the Pinot Noir range of Hannes Storm expressing themselves ever more clearly. The bright red fruit and slatey mineral cut of the Vrede. The ethereal fruit quality and silky textured elegance of the Ignis. The deep, dark fruit and clay-derived mineral power of the Ridge. While they remain fascinating as comparisons, each wine stands out for the astonishing quality and value it unerringly delivers in the glass. Similarly, the Chardonnays now also clearly demonstrate their different terroirs, which has always been the aim of Hannes Storm from the outset with both varieties. 


By way of background, Storm is based in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley, which lies on the coast, due south of Stellenbosch, and the valley stretches inland from Hermanus (famous for whale-watching). This is a wonderfully picturesque part of the world, and it comes as no surprise that Hemel-en-Aarde translates as ‘heaven on earth’. This is a great location in which to cultivate fine Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as the area benefits from the cooling oceanic influence. Hannes had worked in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley for 14 years before setting up his own estate. To establish his estate, he acquired distinct, small parcels of vineyard that he felt offered exceptional terroir and resulted in wines of differing characters. The first vintage releases of Storm were the 2012s, when Hannes ran it as a side-line venture. Today, given the success of his wines, he, and his wife, Nathalia, devote all their time to Storm. We first offered the wines from the 2013 vintage and have continued to do so because each year they seem to exceed our already high expectations. And yet they remain incredibly well priced for the quality of the wine in the glass.


The 2022 vintage saw plentiful winter rains which did not continue into the growing season but did provide a replenished water table to sustain the vines through a glorious summer. The wines show ripe fresh fruit with, nevertheless, a cool aspect to their profiles, the consequence of the specific sites Hannes has sought out and cultivated. They are beautifully textured Pinot Noirs. The 2023 vintage was cooler and also much smaller, the latter situation brought about by a difficult budding. As is so often the case, this impacted quantity but not quality, and while there was some rain mid-harvest, the Vrede was picked before the rains and the Ridge, as is often the case anyway, a month later, accentuating the stylistic differences of these two fine Chardonnays.


These are compellingly brilliant expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Again.


Tim Atkin MW seems to share our opinion and his reviews of the 2022 Pinot Noir range are included below along with my own notes for both the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
 
2022 Pinot Noir, Vrede, Storm 
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond

97 points, Tim Atkin MW
Now including 20% of the 777 clone, alongside its habitual 115 base, Vrede comes from red clay soils with a high iron component. Seductively perfumed, this stunning red has fine tannins, fleshy, opulent flavours of strawberry and redcurrant, finely judged 35% new wood and undertones of rose petal and forest floor. One of the greatest ever Cape Pinot Noirs.
My note:
Scented creamy berry fruit nose. The palate is silky-textured, with ripe strawberry fruit. Softly juicy at the end, showing a beautifully pure, red fruit character. This Vrede is all about balance, harmony, poise and subtle persistence. Drink 2025-2030 (ROM)
 
2022 Pinot Noir, Ignis, Storm
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond

96 points, Tim Atkin MW
As its name suggests, Ignis uses grapes from a 2.4-hectare, north-facing site on warmer decomposed granite soils. Pale, ethereal and very delicate for a 2022 red, it combines the Burgundian 113 and 115 clones to brilliant effect. Focused, energetic and tangy, with savoury tannins, pomegranate and wild strawberry flavours, nuanced and a real sense of energy, vibrancy and purpose. Incredibly long.
My note: 
As ever, Ignis is paler in hue and characteristically elegant, silky and flowing. Ripe, pure fruit is expressed with elegant restraint. The tannins are ripe and fine, providing subtle structure. The finish is clean and long; so more-ish and mouthwatering, with a wonderful stony mineral cut at the end. Drink 2025-2032 (ROM)
 
2022 Pinot Noir, Ridge, Storm
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond

96 points, Tim Atkin MW
Ridge is often the most backward of Hannes Storm’s trio of remarkable single vineyard Pinot Noirs, sourced from an east-facing, high-density planting at 330 metres at La Vierge on the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. Plum, black cherry and a hint of graphite are underpinned by plenty of grip, backbone and intensity. One to tuck away for a while.
My note:
Currently closed on the nose but with a deep, dark berry profile with a spicy touch. The palate is fuller, broader than the Vrede or Ignis. There is a notable power and presence to the Ridge 2022. Mouth-wateringly saline and long with a juicy quality to the fruit on the finish together with a wonderful mineral tension. Drink 2025-2034 (ROM)
 
2023 Chardonnay, Vrede, Storm
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond

A north-east facing slope in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, the soils are predominantly stony, clay-rich Bokkeveld shale bringing texture and complexity.
My note:
Clean, vibrant apple and citrus nose with some softer, ripe nectarine and apricot notes coming through on a palate that remains taut, zippy and vibrant. There is such a wealth of healthy ripe orchard fruit on a long, gently grippy finish. Drink 2024-2028 (ROM)

2023 Chardonnay, Ridge, Storm
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond

The Ridge vineyard is planted at high density on an eastern slope at 300m elevation in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, which can ripen as much as a month later than the Vrede. A proportion is aged in clay amphora (10%), the rest of the blend was raised 32% new wood.
My note:
While the fruit profile remains cool, there is an intensity of juicy, ripe citrus fruit beneath together with notes of pear, kumquat and lychee. The palate is structured and pithy. Tensile and mineral with a real citrus purity and persistence. As with the Pinot, there is a power delivered by the Ridge vineyard that is evident in the wonderful grip this shows on the finish. A compelling Chardonnay. Drink 2025-2030 (ROM)

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