NEW RELEASES: 'One of the most distinguished domaines of the Côte de Nuits’ - Domaine Ponsot

May 28, 2025

NEW RELEASES:
'One of the most distinguished domaines of the Côte de Nuits’
Domaine Ponsot

The domaine has produced another strong set of wines in 2023
Allen Meadows, burghound.com, January 2025

'One of the most distinguished domaines of the Côte de Nuits’. So wrote Anthony Hanson MW over 25 years ago in the introduction to Domaine Ponsot in his seminal book, Burgundy. More recently William Kelley commented, in a retrospective of Ponsot’s routinely excellent Clos de la Roche: ‘What’s more, the vintages of the last decade or so have been purer and more vibrant than any of the wines produced between 1991 and 1999. In its singular style, in short, Domaine Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche is today one of the greatest wines produced in the Côte de Nuits.’

Domaine Ponsot is indisputably one of the great addresses of Burgundy, a remarkable estate for many reasons, not least of which that 79% of its entire vineyard holding is Grand Cru, and a further 13% Premier Cru. As owner Rose-Marie Ponsot often jokes, if you want to buy a case of Ponsot Bourgogne Rouge, you’ll need to make a balancing order for one or two Grands Crus, an unusual inversion of the more typical obligation.

The history of the domaine goes back to 1872, when William Ponsot bought an estate in Morey-St Denis which included significant parcels in Clos des Monts Luisants and Clos de la Roche, two vineyards that continue to underpin the domaine today. Throughout the 20th century, the domaine was a significant pioneer of innovation. Back in the 1930s, Hippolyte Ponsot was one of the co-founders of the Appellation d’Origine Controlée system, while his son Jean-Marie was a pioneer of clonal selection of vines in the mid-twentieth century, with a number of the most successful and well-known Pinot Noir clones globally deriving from Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche vineyard. Latterly, Laurent Ponsot took on the problem of cork as a closure through the 1990s as well as famously dedicating much time and effort to combatting counterfeit fine wine.

In 2017, Rose-Marie Ponsot took over the management of the domaine and brought in Alexandre Abel as head winemaker. Together they have now overseen seven vintages, starting in 2017. They have built on the trend of innovation that is second nature at Domaine Ponsot and continue to perfect their approach. As has been the case at Domaine Ponsot for decades, no new oak is employed for the elevage of the wines, allowing a pure expression of each vineyard. Their approach to viticulture is respectful of nature and minimal intervention is the watchword. Alexandre believes that they have been able to retain their precision in recent vintages by “really zoning in on parcels whether because of vine age, clonal material, or soil variations”.

Nowhere is this more evident than in the pair of Chapelle-Chambertin and Corton Bourdon, both of which have seen a reappraisal of approach under Alexandre and Rose-Marie. The Chapelle was replanted through the 1980s and the vines, now at 40 years old, are now giving more and more interesting and complex fruit while the winemaking has been adapted to maximise the elegance possible from this Gevrey Grand Cru. The Corton Bourdon vines are now from one third of each of Clos du Roi, Les Perrières and Les Bressandes and, again, the winemaking is now more focused on bringing greater refinement, as alluded to by Allen Meadows in his note, where he comments that this is typically Corton but without any rusticity.

I tasted at the domaine last November. The 2023s were excellent expressions of each cuvée. The Clos de la Roche combines power, poise and elegance. The Chapelle gets better each year since Rose-Marie and Alexandre have taken their more sensitive approach to its terroir. The Corton Bourdon combines mineral presence with a degree of accessibility that Corton can often lack. The Alouettes is eternally and consistently an over-achieving premier cru with Morey blue fruit and spice on a palate and a remarkable mouthwatering mineral quality with such pure, healthy fruit. The Monts Luisants is beautifully clean and pure in 2023 too, but with the mineral complexity and depth derived from the 100+ year old Aligoté vines while the St Romain is such a vibrant and accessible style.

These are exceptional wines that balance good density and body with a seamless and natural sense of energy and poise. The harmony they show now only bodes well for the future of wines known to age so well.

I include the notes of Allen Meadows for the reds, deferring to his long tasting experience of historic Burgundy domaines such as this. He has not published notes on the whites and I therefore include the notes of Jasper Morris MW for those.

2023 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Ponsot
£2,050 per 6 bottle case in bond
£2,150 per 3 magnum case in bond
93-96 points, Allen Meadows, burghound.com, January 2025
If the Chapelle has the most floral-suffused nose in the range, this has the spiciest with its nose of beautifully layered red berry aromas that are nuanced by hints of violet, earth and a smoky nuance. The gorgeously textured and impressively scaled flavors possess both fine volume and underlying tension while delivering outstanding length on the moderately austere, palate coating and balanced finish that is very much built-to-age. This is terrific but be aware that it is a wine that will require a minimum of 10 years of keeping and ultimately, probably closer to 20. Drink 2038+ Don’t miss!

2023 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Ponsot
£1,500 per 6 bottle case in bond
£1,570 per 3 magnum case in bond
92-95 points, Allen Meadows, burghound.com, January 2025
This elegant effort has the most floral-infused nose in the range with additional breadth in the form of red currant, raspberry and a very pretty range of spice elements, especially anise and sandalwood. I very much like the sophisticated texture of the medium-bodied flavors despite they're not being particularly dense, all wrapped in an overtly stony, balanced and built-to-age finish. Very promising. Drink 2035+

2023 Corton Grand Cru, Cuvée des Bourdons, Domaine Ponsot
£890 per 6 bottle case in bond
92-95 points, Allen Meadows, burghound.com, January 2025
A slightly riper and more layered nose is comprised by liqueur-like notes of red cherry, newly turned earth, crushed anise and a similar floral suggestion. There is excellent volume and richness to the solidly concentrated, especially in the context of the vintage, larger-bodied flavors to display impressive power and ample minerality on the serious, structured and well-balanced finale. This is excellent and while very Corton in style, not rustic, and if you have the patience, recommended. Drink 2035+ Sweet spot.

2023 Morey-St.Denis 1er Cru, Cuvée des Alouettes, Domaine Ponsot
£525 per 6 bottle case in bond
90-93 points, Allen Meadows, burghound.com, January 2025
A whiff of herbal tea is present on the cool and pretty aromas of various red barriers, rose petal and attractive spice wisps. The middle weight flavors aren't as dense as those of the Bressandes but they're finer and more mineral-driven while delivering very good length on the bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This too could use better depth but that should just be a matter of exercising some patience. This too is worth checking out. Drink 2033+ Outstanding.

2023 Gevrey-Chambertin, Cuvée de l’Abeille, Domaine Ponsot
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
88-90 points, Allen Meadows, burghound.com, January 2025
A completely different aromatic profile presents a blend of red and dark currant that is cut with markedly more sauvage and forest floor elements. There is slightly better volume to the similarly textured middle weight flavors that retain excellent detail on the equally youthfully austere finale. This too could benefit from developing better depth so a few years of keeping are recommended. Drink 2029+

2023 Morey-St.Denis 1er Cru Blanc, Clos des Monts Luisants, Domaine Ponsot
£525 per 6 bottle case in bond
91-94 points, Jasper Morris MW
This year the malolactic has taken place, unlike in 2022. Mid lemon yellow. A refined bouquet which is really very pretty, graceful waves of fruit, a little lime blossom, nothing angular. An exceptionally stylish wine on the palate, while the finish brings the Aligoté tension and vivacity after the relatively fleshy mid palate. A fine long aftertaste. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.

2023 St.Romain Blanc, Cuvée de la Mésange, Domaine Ponsot
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
88-90 points, Jasper Morris MW
Mid lemon yellow. A clear-cut limestone bouquet, St-Romain is doing well in these warmer times. Fuller bodied than it once would have been. An excellent balance between the flesh and the crystalline structure, with some ripe citrus enhancing the aftertaste. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Nov 2024.

Please let us know of your interest.

Richard

richard.omahony@atlasfinewines.com

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