2019 NeroBufaleffj - £225 per 6 bottle case in bond
2019 NeroSanloré - £225 per 6 bottle case in bond
2019 NeroBaronj - £165 per 6 bottle case in bond
Eric Guido: ‘The 2019s are gorgeous, deep, rich, dark-fruited and classically structured. What’s more, they are transparent to terroir, which makes it hard for me even to recommend one over the other.’
Simon Larkin: ‘I fully concur though I have tried to highlight the styles and recommend based on their differences here’
Eric Guido: ‘These are some of the best wines being made, not just in Sicily but all of Italy.’
Simon Larkin: ‘Not wrong, the wines of Gulfi are class-leading and show Nero d’Avola’s full potential. They are easily among the finest Italian wines I have the pleasure to taste.’
Ok, so we weren’t in conversation, but I think Eric Guido has a very good read on the qualities of these hugely impressive wines, and I wholeheartedly concur with his sentiments. Heed his comments and then read my offer below!
We have offered wines from Sicilian estate, Gulfi, previously as we were so impressed by the quality. Sicily has this habit of continuing to surprise. I have written about my fascination with the variety ‘Nero Mascalese’ before, but these wines are made from ‘Nero d’Avola’. Until I was introduced to the wines of Gulfi, I never believed Nero d’Avola could hit such heights.
This indigenous Italian grape variety (Nero d’Avola) barely gets a mention in my old, dog-eared copy of Jancis Robinson’s Vines, Grapes and Wines, which possibly reveals how it had fallen out of favour in the 1980s. Fortunately, that has since changed and today there are a good range of hugely impressive examples from this often-overlooked variety that are being championed by clued-up critics. Its name, d’Avola, comes from the southern part of the province of Syracuse in Sicily, where it is highly regarded for producing age-worthy wines. However, it is also known as Calabrese, hinting at the fact that it is equally at home on the mainland, in Puglia and as its name suggests, the toe of Italy, Calabria.
Gulfi was established in the 1970s by Raffaele Catania; his son Vito took over the running of the estate in 1995, but today it is run by his sons Matteo and Raffaele. Their Nero d’Avola vineyards lie in south-eastern Sicily in an area known as Pachino, within the much larger Noto region. In fact, the Catania family has been fighting for years to get this subzone recognised, as it is capable of far higher quality than the rest of the district. As you might expect of such an estate, they have Nerello Mascalese vines on the slopes of Mount Etna too, but it is their Nero d’Avola that is the principal focus.
We feature three individual wines from Gufli in this offer. I must admit the name ‘NeroBufaleffj’ may remind me of a line of Scrabble letters before I have arranged them into something intelligible, but it is actually the name of a ‘Contrada’ or Grand Cru from the DOC Pachino. The other two wines offered here also bear the names of the Contrada, though it should be noted that the Sanloré comes from the Contrada San Lorenzo. Many of the top Sicilian producers have focused their attention on producing single vineyard Nerello Mascalese, but Gulfi is at the forefront of championing single vineyard Nero d’Avola. There has been a dramatic rise in quality at Gulfi; Ian d’Agata, who is, for me, far and above, the most experienced and knowledgeable critic on Southern Italian wines, commented in 2019 that ‘Gulfi has made some of its best wines ever these last two years’. Having tasted the full range of Crus earlier this year, I can confirm that trend continues.
Rather than duplicate notes below, I thought I would give you a few words on the differences here. The Sanloré is the wine that stunned me most from the 2019s, it is the epitome of elegance, the silkiest of palates packed with such juicy berry and stone fruit nuances, with a never ceasing violet, floral overlay. It is lively, precise and hugely impressive with a tangy quality that builds long into the finish. Just a glorious wine. This elegance comes from the fact that this vineyard is based on red sandy soils, which impart a distinct elegance to the tannins. By contrast, the Bufaleffj grown on a more varied terroir at slightly higher elevation, with a greater clay component, as well as elements of limestone and sand, is a more structured, mineral-backed wine. Despite requiring ageing to reveals its true character, you can’t help but be struck by the poise of the wine – it captures darker fruit notes, more spice, and yet that sense of elegance and refinement shines through as does that tell-tale citrussy lift on the finish. This is less immediately gratifying, but equally as epic as the Sanloré. The Baronj strikes me as being somewhere between the two stylistically, and not quite in the same league. That is fair enough as it is reflected in the price. It is an impressive wine, which only suffers by comparison with the complexity of the other two Crus. Its fruit has a damson/ Victoria plum character with a few notes of spice. This is a more forward drinking style, not as floral as the other two, but sharing some of the elegance of the Sanloré. I would drink the Baronj from shipment, whereas the Sanloré will benefit from some patience and the Bufaleffj demands that patience!
These are utterly fascinating wines that somehow do not get championed as greatly as you might think. If you were as impressed by the 2017 NeroBufaleffj as we were – and I readily concede, I drank my stock too soon – you shouldn’t miss out here. The 2019s are simply joyous wines with the transparency and purity that you would expect of class-leading wines from any region.
2019 NeroBufaleffj, Gulfi
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
96 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com
Dark and earthy in the glass, the 2019 NeroBufaleffj opens with a burst of crushed ashen stones and earth tones before giving way to dusty black currants and blood orange. It's deeply textural, with silken waves of ripe red and black fruit that swirl throughout. Vibrant acidity maintains a sensation of boundless energy. The 2019 finishes remarkably fresh, yet staining and long, with edgy tannins that resonate as hints of spiced citrus fade. While gorgeous today, the NeroBufaleffj is built for the cellar. Drink 2024-2035.
2019 NeroSanloré, Gulfi
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
95 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com
A blend of crushed plums, rose petals, lavender and Violette pastille creates a deeply seductive bouquet as the 2019 NeroSanloré blossoms in the glass. This is a model of grace and elegance with silky textures, vividly ripe red and blue fruits elevated by sour citrus and a core of stimulating acidity. It finishes long and staining, with sweet tannins that frame the experience beautifully as tangerine and blackberry fade. The 2019 NeroSanloré is to die for; what a gorgeous Nero d'Avola. Drink 2023-2033.
2019 NeroBaronj, Gulfi
£165 per 6 bottle case in bond
94 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com
Depths of black cherry, plum sauce, sage and clove are grounded by animal musk as the 2019 NeroBaronj smolders up from the glass. It flows across the palate like pure silk, refined and seamless in feel, with ripe wild berry fruits and exotic citrus tones that add contrast toward the close. The 2019 finishes long yet closes in upon itself with youthful poise, allowing fine tannins to resonate. Sour cherry notes stick around for a bit. This is elegance personified. Drink 2024-2031.
