NEW RELEASES : 2022 Barbaresco from Albino Rocca - surprising results from an estate on the up

NEW RELEASES : 2022 Barbaresco from Albino Rocca - surprising results from an estate on the up

NEW RELEASES
2022 Barbaresco from Albino Rocca
Surprising results from an estate on the up

As has been the case now for some years, the wines are marked by striking translucence and tons of site character.
Antonio Galloni

2022 Barbaresco, Cotta, Albino Rocca
£205 per 6 bottle case in bond

2022 Barbaresco, Ronchi, Albino Rocca
£215 per 6 bottle case in bond

A wise head once told me, when I first joined the wine industry, that skilled growers can make great wines in tricky vintages. They added that not every wine made in a vintage termed ‘great’ is actually great – sometimes producers miss the mark. I sometimes wonder if we should be repeating these two simple statements daily, like a mantra, to combat the gross generalisations that dominate!

Generalisations lead to people missing out on great wines at fair prices in vintages that are unaffected by hype. They can lead clients to buy only in so-called five-star vintages, resulting in collections of wines that are impressively structured  and that take ages to mature. This leaves them either with little that is ready to drink, or broaching wines too early and ending up disappointed or underwhelmed.

Generalisations invariably result from weather reports. But weather patterns do not necessarily affect the whole of a region in the same way. Additionally, the timing of weather events is key when considering the impact on fruit quality. Equally, the concept of terroir is used to explain why one vineyard site at a certain altitude, on a certain soil, with a certain aspect can produce successful wines even in trickier vintages. It follows that when conditions are uniform, the differences, in terms of relative success, are not as apparent.

When it comes to Piemonte, Barolo dominates the narrative. If Barolo endures difficult weather events in a significant proportion of vineyards, that impression is simplistically applied to Barbaresco, even though conditions might be completely different in this smaller region, which lies to the east and north-east of Alba. The 2022 vintage looks to be mixed for Barolo – undoubtedly there will be some successes, but it proved challenging to most growers with whom I have spoken. In Barbaresco, a much smaller region with a more uniform terroir, there are wines that offer surprising potential.

What made 2022 challenging? It was hot and dry; the vines had to work hard for moisture. In such conditions vines can shut down, so there is sometimes a concern regarding unripe tannins. However by reducing the crop, through cutting away a proportion of the grapes, the vine has a lower volume of fruit on which to focus its attention and thereby ripening becomes an easier task.

When I visited Albino Rocca earlier this year and tasted their 2022s, I was immediately impressed. These 2022s were bottled in early December and were showing so beautifully only a couple of months later. Albino Rocca is an estate that is definitely on the up. I was impressed by their 2019s and every vintage since. The 2022s will not be the most long-lived of vintages; they will show well from an early stage - with lovely purity to their fruit, a certain soft, roundness to the tannins and a surprising freshness in spite of the vintage’s heat. Relating my opening comments to these wines, a skilled winemaker has made great wines in a tricky vintage. These are accessible, attractive wines that clearly show their vineyard traits even if they don’t offer decades of cellarage potential.

Some background on the estate…

The Albino Rocca estate dates back to the 1940s, when Albino’s father, Giacomo, sold grapes from the family vineyards and started to make his own wine. Albino’s son, Angelo, established the estate on a firmer footing, adding vineyards, in some now highly regarded Barbaresco cru, from the 1960s onwards. His passion for the vineyards of the region was matched by his passion for flying and tragically, he died when his plane crashed in 2012. Today it is his three daughters Daniela, Monica, and Paola as well as his son-in-law, Carlo, who run the estate.

Based in Barbaresco itself, Albino Rocca has vines in four different cru vineyards, namely Cotta (in Nieve), Ronchi and Ovello (in Barbaresco), Montersino (in Treiso). As mentioned, the style here has gently shifted and today the wines are singled out by greater fruit purity and freshness, one in which each cru is so clearly expressed, the pendulum having swung back to embrace a more traditional winemaking style.

For anyone in doubt, these are stunning examples of Barbaresco with tons of finesse. They are a lesson in dispensing with generalisation.

2022 Barbaresco, Cotta, Albino Rocca
£205 per 6 bottle case in bond

Scented red fruits, with a floral lift on the nose. The palate is layered, with wave after wave of vibrant red fruits, dark cherry and damson allied to complex notes of mint and scented herb. More supple in this vintage, with finely expressed, round tannins. This is very finely crafted; the extraction is gently expressed, creating an impressive, flowing Barbaresco with fine poise, that could be broached early. The purity of fruit and the way in which it expresses itself in a hot vintage is such a surprise. This has an effortless richness, without any heft – simply put a gorgeous Barbaresco. Often Cotta produces dense, powerful wines, so this is toned down in 2022 if you like, but it is hard to think that the Rocca family could have made a finer example in the conditions. Such a juicy, appealing example. Very impressive. (SL). Drink : 2025-2034



2022 Barbaresco, Ronchi, Albino Rocca
£215 per 6 bottle case in bond

Ronchi comes from some of the oldest vines on the estate, planted in 1962 and 1967. Often a wine that shows some austerity in its youth, not so in 2022. The aromas are captivating – surprisingly fresh, with sweetly ripe plum, damson, loganberry even. This reminds me of the freshly macerated dark and red fruits of a summer pudding.  Sleek, with ample richness, the texture is outstanding, with a mineral vein masked by layers of fruit. The fruit here is admirably ripe – like it was harvested right on the cusp of full ripeness. While this might not show as a more muscular version of Ronchi, the balance is beautiful, with that round, soft nature to the tannins, easing the normal power of the site to produce a stylish, juicy example that is high on appeal. Notes of liquorice and spice come through to the finish as does a burst of lip-smacking dark fruit. A beautiful Ronchi indeed. (SL) Drink : 2025 to 2036.


Please let us know of your interest.

Simon 

simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com



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