NEW RELEASES:
2021 Barolo from Giovanni Rosso - 'richness of fruit, precision and aromatic lift'
2021 Barolo, Serra, Giovanni Rosso
£255 per 6 bottle case in bond
2021 Barolo, Cerretta, Giovanni Rosso
£255 per 6 bottle case in bond
The release calendar for Barolo is nothing short of perplexing. Individual estates release their wines at completely different points of the year, some early in spring, or even February, and others in September….it is by no means as streamlined and organised as it is with many major French regions. And you can be forgiven for forgetting the normal release windows of major estates – luckily, we are here to remind you!
Today, I am pleased to offer two new releases from an ‘off the radar’ Barolo producer, namely Giovanni Rosso. I have been championing these wines for some time, and I have little doubt that this Serralunga d’Alba based producer hasn’t made a set of finer wines than these. The winemaking style of the Giovanni Rosso wines seems well suited to the 2021 vintage, with its richness of fruit, precision and aromatic lift.
As I wrote much earlier this year; ‘Critics can argue the toss as to where it sits in the hierarchy of vintages, but whatever they decide is relatively academic, as I feel certain that 2021 will give a huge amount of pleasure to fans of Barolo and may well assist in attracting new consumers to one of the world’s most fascinating of regions.’
2021 has some of that accessibility and balance that renders the 2020s so enjoyable, allied to more structure and backbone. That said, this is not a foreboding Barolo vintage that demands to be left to slumber in a cool cellar before being broached, on the contrary, the 2021 will offer relatively early drinking appeal as well as a long plateau of maturity. Win-win, some might say.
A little background on Giovanni Rosso
The Rosso family has cultivated vines in Serralunga d’Alba since the late 19th century, but only started bottling its own wines in the 1990s, when Davide Rosso took the reins. He owns parcels in some key Cru vineyard such as Vignarionda, Cerretta and Serra, as well as having some holdings in lesser known Crus. The winemaking approach could be termed modern with a nod to tradition, as is the case with so many current Barolo producers. Certainly, the winemaking looks to shine a light on the signature of the individual vineyards, but equally, it seeks a balanced, harmonious expression. I find the wines to be pure, with impressive textures, fine tannins and a touch of earlier accessibility, even in the more structural vintages.
The two wines in question are Serra (not to be confused with La Serra from La Morra) and Cerretta – both come from Serralunga d’Alba, a sub-region of Barolo whose wines are renowned for power and finesse. No major critic has reviewed these two wines as yet, though the Vigna Rionda from the same vintage enjoyed considerable praise. See my full notes below.
2021 Barolo, Serra, Giovanni Rosso
£255 per 6 bottle case in bond
With attractive aromas of juicy red fruit and blood orange, this is a very appealing young Barolo, with a bright acidity, and fine texture to its generous fruit of lightly spiced raspberry and loganberry, which is intertwined with hints of kirsch and mint. The chalky tannins lend subtle underpinning to this vintage of Serra. The floral nuances to finish are carried by a fine balancing acidity, making for a very complete and harmonious showing. Impressive (SL). Drink: 2028-2036
2021 Barolo, Cerretta, Giovanni Rosso
£255 per 6 bottle case in bond
In contrast to the Serra, this is a darker-fruited style, with hints of sweet dark cherry and aromatic herbs on the nose. This also shows a terrific juicy quality to the fruit, and comes across as a touch more forward. The tannins are so sleeky expressed that they do not hinder enjoyment even in this young vintage. There are complex notes of spice and tobacco that are hallmarks of this impressive Cru, allied to that soft textural quality that seems typical of the Rosso wines. This is a beautifully expressive vintage of Cerretta. (SL) Drink: 2027-2036