NEW RELEASE:
2023 Pinot Bianco, Riserva, Vorberg from Terlano
'mesmerising, utterly classy'
This is a truly great white wine, and deserves all the praise heaped on it.
Simon Larkin MW
2023 Pinot Bianco, Riserva, Vorberg, Cantina Terlano
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
It is hard to explain how highly I rate this wine….it is extraordinary. It is with doubt the finest Pinot Blanc that I have tasted. In fact, I was discussing Pinot Blanc with someone just recently who suggested that they consider this to be the absolute benchmark. To say this is a much-awaited offer is putting it mildly….Aside from the outstanding quality, this is a screaming bargain to boot.
To recap, or to introduce to those unfamiliar, Cantina Terlano is a cooperative founded 40 years ago in north-eastern Alto Adige. Over 40 growers manage around 190 hectares of vines to produce a large range of highly individual wines. One of the estate’s specialities is Pinot Bianco (or Pinot Blanc if you prefer the French). There are very few complex Pinot Blanc in the world, and even fewer that come close to the Vorberg Riserva in terms of quality. Pinot Bianco is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir and commonly associated with Alsace in north-eastern France as well as being grown in Germany, where it is also known as Weissburgunder. However, the vines grown in Alsace are not capable of the same quality; large yields of less characterful berries producing relatively simple entry level wines. It is only really in Alto Adige that serious wines are made from this variety and Terlano’s Vorberg comfortably tops the list.
Vorberg means ‘in front of the mountain’ and the fruit comes from vines grown in sandy soils on steep south/southwest facing slopes at altitudes of 400-900 meters. The nutrient-poor soils control the natural vigour of the vines, while the aspect and altitude allow fruit to ripen fully and evenly. The result is a wine with both concentrated floral aromatics and notable minerality. Indeed, there is a complexity to this wine that is distinctly mineral. Antonio Galloni gave the 1955 Pinot Bianco Vorberg – yes, the 1955 – 100 points when tasted in 2013, commenting that it surprised a group of wine lovers who have had the world’s greatest bottles many times. His colleague, Ian d’Agata, scored the 1959 at 99 points, and the 1966 at 98 points. I think you can see that Terlano’s Vorberg has a real pedigree.
What is even more impressive is that this wine, which really shines in 2023, comes from what could be termed a challenging vintage – a dry spring, wet and humid summer, before beneficial sunny, dry yet cool late season conditions aided late ripening varietals. The result is a wine of superb concentration yet supreme elegance and refinement. Frankly, though I might say this in almost every vintage of Vorberg, this is an absolutely stunning example of Vorberg – see my full note below.
2023 Pinot Bianco, Riserva, Vorberg, Cantina Terlano
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
One of the most elegant vintages I have encountered, the 2023 Vorberg reveals notes of pure fruit on the nose; pear, lemon, white flowers and stony minerals. The palate is stunning; gently oily, silky, with riper notes of fresh apricot emerging to the finish, yet echoing the pear, lemon/lime fruit of the nose. There is a lively acidity that will see this perfectly poised Vorberg age serenely, as well as that stony mineral undertow that is so typical of this wine. Mesmerising, utterly classy Pinot Bianco. This is a truly great white wine, and deserves all the praise heaped on it. (SL) Drink: 2025 to 2038+
The only problem I have with the Vorberg is that it drinks so well young, I seldom hold onto any bottles to give them a chance to age, and I have no doubt this could age for decades. I have had the pleasure to taste a number of mature vintage of the Pinot Bianco Rarity from Terlano, their hugely impressive top wine, but I still come back to the Vorberg as being the must-buy, all things considered.
Please let us know of your interest – and don’t hang around, as the stock doesn’t!
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com