2020 Carmignano Riserva, Piaggia
£220 per 6 bottle case in bond
This is a dark and radiant beauty. The 2020 is a showstopper.
The Piaggia winery remains, without a doubt, the shining beacon of light in the Carmignano territory.
Eric Guido, October 2023
I was absolutely stunned by the wines of Piaggia when I tasted them for the first time last year. I didn’t know the estate and didn’t know what to expect, but they were outstanding for the purity of the fruit, the balanced ripeness and precision. The new releases have proven this was not a one hit wonder, this estate should be on anyone’s radar if you are looking for exceptional Tuscan wines that do not break the bank.
You can be forgiven for not knowing much about the Carmignano DOCG despite its proximity to Florence – after all it covers around 110 hectares, divided among 20 or so different growers. So, simply put, it is roughly the same size as the vineyard of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, to put it into context. The estate was established in the 1970s by Mauro Vannucci, who was drawn to this location as he was convinced that he could produce a great Carmignano from this site, given its excellent exposure. The first vintage of Piaggia Carmignano Riserva that he produced was the 1991, and it was around this time that he supplemented the estate’s vineyard holding with an additional 15 hectares in a prime area near the centre of the Carmignano district. It is Mauro’s daughter, Silvia, who is the current owner of this 25-hectare estate, which comprises five different vineyard parcels.
The region benefits from a wide range in daily temperatures, on account of its proximity to the Apennines, which imparts a freshness to the resultant wines. The soils here are principally limestone, though the Vanuccis are intent on discovering new terroirs in the region where soils vary from sandy clay to Galestro or even those with layers of primary rock mixed with quartz. Piaggia remains the benchmark producer for the region and under Silvia Vanucci, they are focused on driving quality higher. The wines are based on the indigenous Sangiovese, with the Cabernets, Franc and Sauvignon, in support. These varieties are said to have been introduced to the area in the 16th century by Catherine de’ Medici when she became queen of France.
What impresses here is the combination of ripeness and poise. The wines have a beautiful sense of ripeness, really juicy, aromatic fruits harvested right on the cusp of full maturity. They really are head-turning wines, and the same character traits are apparent in each vintage I have tried and are equally apparent up and down the scale. I think the quality and style are down to strong viticultural practices as much as shrewd winemaking decisions. You get the sense of a firm focus on quality with the aim to retain the exceptional quality of the fruit. When discussing the Carmignano Riserva they state that it ‘is made giving special attention to the finest detail: nothing is left to chance, either in the vineyard or in the cellar, because we believe our grapes deserve particular care and attention and because we want to offer the consumer a thrill that tells of the beauty of our vineyards and the aromas of our land.’
Please see my note below and have a good look at Eric Guido’s tasting note as well…..his enthusiasm is very clear (just as clear as mine!).
2020 Carmignano Riserva, Piaggia
£220 per 6 bottle case in bond
£220 per 6 bottle case in bond
This wine is the standard bearer for the estate and comes from an old vineyard near Poggetto, which is subject to rigorous selection. It is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and 10% Merlot. Aged in French oak barriques for 18 months.
My note:
The aromas suggest pure, ripe berry fruit – notes of fragrant, floral-nuanced, red fruit, juicy, spiced raspberry meld with loganberry and blackberry. Vibrant and pure, that sense of perfect ripeness is once more apparent, with that distinctive, mashed summer fruit note that I commented on in the 2019. Touches of spice and mint add complexity to a palate that reveals terrific depth of fruit without ever seeming heavy. It remains fresh throughout. Beautifully expressed tannins provide gentle underpinning and a sleek texture, but they are admirably veiled by the copious fruit. Such clarity and balance on show – this is truly exceptional for the second year in a row. Piaggia is certainly an estate to follow. Outstanding. (SL) Drink 2025-2034.
The aromas suggest pure, ripe berry fruit – notes of fragrant, floral-nuanced, red fruit, juicy, spiced raspberry meld with loganberry and blackberry. Vibrant and pure, that sense of perfect ripeness is once more apparent, with that distinctive, mashed summer fruit note that I commented on in the 2019. Touches of spice and mint add complexity to a palate that reveals terrific depth of fruit without ever seeming heavy. It remains fresh throughout. Beautifully expressed tannins provide gentle underpinning and a sleek texture, but they are admirably veiled by the copious fruit. Such clarity and balance on show – this is truly exceptional for the second year in a row. Piaggia is certainly an estate to follow. Outstanding. (SL) Drink 2025-2034.
96 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com, October 2023
The 2020 Carmignano Riserva Piaggia impresses with its understated power, lifting up with a delicate blend of dried roses and black cherries, complicated by cedary spice and hints of dark chocolate. This is pure elegance on the palate, seamlessly silky and soothing with depths of polished red and blue fruits that swirl, all energized by vibrant acidity. A web of fine tannins wraps the senses in youthful poise as the 2020 finishes impossibly long and staining, leaving notes of white pepper, licorice and violet inner florals to resonate. This is a dark and radiant beauty. The 2020 is a showstopper. Drink 2026-2034.
The 2020 Carmignano Riserva Piaggia impresses with its understated power, lifting up with a delicate blend of dried roses and black cherries, complicated by cedary spice and hints of dark chocolate. This is pure elegance on the palate, seamlessly silky and soothing with depths of polished red and blue fruits that swirl, all energized by vibrant acidity. A web of fine tannins wraps the senses in youthful poise as the 2020 finishes impossibly long and staining, leaving notes of white pepper, licorice and violet inner florals to resonate. This is a dark and radiant beauty. The 2020 is a showstopper. Drink 2026-2034.