Late release: 2004, 2001 plus 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio Al Vento, Col d’Orcia
Late released: 2004, 2001 plus 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Poggio Al Vento, Col d’Orcia Direct from the estate
2004 Poggio al Vento, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - £840 per 6 bottle case in bond 2001 Poggio al Vento, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - £840 per 6 bottle case in bond 2015 Poggio al Vento, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - £550 per 6 bottle case in bond
On Wednesday night, I had the chance to taste a range of 2004 Brunello di Montalcino, largely Riservas, from many of the finest producers in the region. It was great to have the chance to taste these Brunello with such maturity, though nearly all showed that they were only halfway into their drinking windows even after twenty years. What surprised me was how fresh and pure the wines are. Even though I recall that 2004 was a near dream-like vintage for Brunello producers, I was still surprised by the lightness of touch and freshness that they exhibited.
In terms of quality and value, there was one frontrunner, namely the 2004 Brunello di Montaclino Riserva, Poggio al Vento from Col d’Orcia. This wine is utterly sublime, revealing a cool refinement, which made me recall a Monty Waldin comment, when he reviewed the vintage for Decanter magazine, in which he claimed that the 2004 Brunello had ‘a Burgundian-like levity’. Great vintages are confirmed with maturity, they might show potential when a critic or buyer samples an unfinished example from barrel, and gives them a point score, but the validation that comes with sampling mature bottles gives the confirmation. 2004 is a great vintage, without a doubt.
2004 was characterised by a cold winter, which helped to replenish ground water levels after the blazing conditions of 2003. Spring rain was also a welcome boon and led to even development of the vines . Summer offered dream-like conditions for the producer, particularly after the trails and tribulations of the previous year. The summer was warm, but not excessively so, and as the season progressed, it was notable for the cool night-time conditions that allowed the berries to retain aromatics and acidity. Harvest was an unhurried affair with growers able to pick and choose the right moment for harvest. In fact, this last point really aided the larger estates who were able to harvest plot by plot at their leisure, ensuring optimal ripeness. It sounds a great set of conditions, doesn’t it? The resultant wines show no heaviness nor alcoholic warmth and are packed with vibrant fruits. They reveal terrific definition and clarity – precise and pure. Now with maturity, they are picking up hints of those complex tertiary notes – an appealing autumnal leaf character and an inviting softness of texture.
Our tasting also highlighted a point that is worth stressing here. Brunello di Montalcino may only be a small region, virtually eleven miles square and centred on the medieval hilltop town of Montalcino, with circa 2000 hectares of vines, but it is more diverse than you might expect. The north is a touch cooler, the sites a little more protected, and it tends to receive a little more rainfall. Harvest can be a touch later than at those estates to the south and resultant acidity can be a touch higher. The estates in the south tend to be larger, more open spaces, with the south-east facing slopes the warmest. Equally across the region, altitude may vary from 200 metres to over 400 metres leading to other subtle differences in style. Additionally, across those altitudes, soils vary from the sandy, alluvial influence that is found at lower levels, to oceanic clay and limestone mid-way and the prized ‘Galestro’ soils on the upper slopes. Galestro is basically a rocky, schistous, clay soil, not compacted but crumbly. These soils are praised for bringing depth to wines but without heaviness. So, Brunello is diverse, and that is just the terroir. Thereafter we need to consider the winemaking, though most of the top estates largely follow similar lines, employing macerations of 18-24 days and ageing their wines in large Slavonian oakbotti, or foudre if you prefer the French.
And back to the wine in question. I was so buoyed up after my recent tasting of their 2004 that we contacted the agent for Col d’Orcia and informed them of how well it showed. After discussion with the estate, I am pleased to say we have accessed a parcel of the 2004 directly from them. This is incredibly uncommon at any estate as, invariably, older vintages have long since been sold given the pressure on stocks. In addition to the 2004, we have also accessed a small parcel of 2001 and 2015, both exceptional Brunello vintages. So, this is a rare offer indeed and the stocks therefore have perfect provenance.
Col d’Orcia is one of the larger estates in the region situated to the south of Montalcino. Its vineyards lie at an altitude of approximately 350 metres, which offsets the temperature on their largely south-facing slopes. Poggio al Vento is a Riserva made only in the finest years from a specific vineyard, which was planted in 1974. It is aged in wood for four years before release. The site’s name translates as ‘windy hill’, highlighting that the wines from this parcel retain fine freshness which, allied to the ripeness of great vintages, enables them to age for a great many years. The development of Col d’Orcia owes a lot to the Cinzano family who bought it in 1973 as they have overseen numerous research projects and refinements that have all driven quality forwards.
Please see my note on the 2004 below – I have included Antonio Galloni’s not from February 2015, in which he alludes to the potential on show. To me, that potential has been more than amply delivered! This is a dense wine in its youth, so it isn’t surprising to see critics using the plus sign to indicate that further ageing could result in a higher score.
2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Poggio Al Vento, Col d’Orcia £840 per 6 bottle case in bond
My note: Bright in the glass, with captivating aromas of juicy, vibrant red fruits, both cherry and berry, with a slight floral lift. You can sense the evolution on the palate, though the fruit stays bright and pure, this wine is not lacking energy with a marked juiciness. This is supremely elegant, with a soft, welcoming, gently creamy texture and accent to the copious red fruits. Notes of bay leaf, mint and tobacco add complexity to this beautifully balanced example with the satiny tannins. There is a real sense that this is starting to hit its straps – the fruit is so expressive, darker nuances emerging with time in the glass. Those soft layers of fruit and the discreet autumnal leaf notes underscored by a vibrant acidity, all signal a Brunello of the highest order. Compelling, positive and persistent – it would be difficult to imagine a finer showing. Sleek and perfumed to the last. This is magic. Drink now to 2035+.
95+ points, Antonio Galloni,vinous.com(February 2015) Col d'Orcia's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is beautifully perfumed, finessed and nuanced, with plenty of bright red-fleshed fruit flavors. Hints of cedar, smoke, licorice and tobacco develop in the glass, but the 2004 remains quite primary and dense, with little in the way of development relative to so many other wines of the vintage. The 2004 can be enjoyed today with some aeration, but its best drinking almost certainly lies in the future. Richer, dark red cherry compote and plum notes start to open up in the glass, hinting at what is to come.
2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Poggio Al Vento, Col d’Orcia £840 per 6 bottle case in bond
95 points, Eric Guido,vinous.com, November 2021 Pulling yourself away from a glass of 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Al Vento Riserva is an exercise in futility. It wafts up with a heady bouquet of dried cherries and clove complemented by brown spices, worn leather, tobacco and the slightest hint of mocha. There are silken depths here, ushering in intense, tart red currants, motivated by stimulating acidity, as saline-minerals and a burst of sour citrus provides lovely contrasts. It leaves a potent and persistent staining of primary fruit and sweet tannins, all under rosy inner florals and earth tones. Judged by the bright ruby color alone, you’d never guess this was a twenty-year-old wine, yet what you find within tempts the imagination even more. The 2001 Riserva has many years of evolution in store. Drink to 2030.
2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Poggio Al Vento, Col d’Orcia £550 per 6 bottle case in bond
96+ points, Eric Guido,vinous.com, March 2022 The darkly alluring 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento requires coaxing to unlock its aromatics from their youthful state. However, patience is rewarded, as crushed stones and ashen earth give way to red and black wild berries offset by hints of camphor and, finally, a note of sweet tobacco. Its textures are like pure silk draped across the palate, as a saturation of salty minerals settle in. Vivid notes of tart black cherry and an air of inner rose resonate throughout as fine tannins slowly clench the senses. The result is one of hulking structure yet also a potent staining of primary concentration; yet through it all, bright acids maintain supreme balance. Wow, the 2015 Poggio al Vento is a masterpiece in the making. Drink : 2025-2038.
Stocks are limited as you might expect from directly accessed stock with this maturity, so please let us know of your interest the earliest opportunity.
All about balance: 2023 Burgundy Vintage ReportMore juice just might be the secret to balancing the excesses of the increasingly common warmer vintages that Burgundy is witnessing. And 2023 certainly provided more juice. It was a large-yielding vintage; cellars are full of young wine gently maturing in bottle, barrel, amphora, glass bulb, vat... Half empty cellars have become a more normal sight. Low yields have been the consequence of early season crop loss due to frost and summers that have been hot and dry, causing berry size to be reduced, resulting in a dramatic absence of juice.
Plentiful yields posing a different challenge to growersIn 2023, the crop was so vast that growers had to actively reduce yield in order to harvest below the maximum permitted levels of 35 to 45 hectolitres per hectare; in some instances, the reduction required was more than 50%. Comparison to yields of other recent vintages is startling. 2022 could be termed a vintage dominated by drought, so in 2023, given the rainfall, the vines overcompensated as is so often the case in such conditions.Higher juice in berries reducing excesses of alcohol and densityIn a bygone age, high yield would have carried with it a fear of dilution, a word which carried overwhelmingly negative connotations. But perhaps it depends on the starting point. Without doubt, ‘new normal’, modern Burgundy vintages are characterised by far greater density and concentration of fruit than was ever previously the case; alcohol levels approaching, or exceeding, fourteen degrees have not been out of the question. In such an era, dilution is, actually, most welcome as it can lead to wines with a far greater sense of balance. The question of increasing yield in the face of advancing concentration will become a frequent discussion point in future vintages, we have little doubt.Theory has it that Pinot Noir suffers under high yields; anything in excess of 40 hectolitres per hectare is detrimental to quality. Theory has also suggested that Pinot Noir requires a long, even growing season to produce high quality wines. Yet many recent Burgundy vintages could hardly be described as long, or even, even. Consequently, much of the traditional theory seems out of sync with modern conditions and outcomes. Given the levels of fruit concentration that we are witnessing in Burgundy and other French regions over recent vintages the topic of allowing higher yields has been mooted as this would bring greater fluidity to the wines as well as moderating the alcohol content a touch.Great sense of freshness and vibrancyThe issue is that we have not witnessed a vintage with yields this high in ‘the modern era’ – some commentators are citing that such volume has not been seen since 1982. And as Jasper Morris writes: For many producers it was the largest crop on record. We’ll take their word for it. Steen Ohman’s description of the vintage seems apt, ‘red and white 2023(s) are painting with a big brush and generous strokes. Some love this [he does] with all the positive traits of generosity.’ Steen sees it as a hedonistic vintage more than a precise vintage. (It is important to understand that for him ‘hedonistic’ does not carry any notion of wines being overripe or overblown but merely that the wines have a profoundly pleasurable drinkability.)So, let’s conclude that quantity is significant and move onto what we should expect of such an unusual vintage qualitatively. The honest answer is likely to be variability. Different growers will have handled the burgeoning crop on their vines better than others, with green harvest (discarding unwanted fruit) and timing of harvest particularly important in such a year. Equally, different terroirs will have performed differently, as will vines of differing ages.In terms of the growing season, it will be noted statistically as the warmest year on record, though much of that is attributable to milder winter/ spring conditions and less of a diurnal shift, meaning nights were warmer. In comparison to recent years like 2022 or 2020, it was a cooler during the summer months and there is a more evident, brighter acidity in the resultant wines. Having dodged the threat of frost in the spring after an early budbreak, the growing season was characterised by warm weather punctuated by regular intervals of rain, which accelerated the vines’ development. Flowering was relatively unproblematic for Pinot Noir, meaning the expectation of a larger crop was already on the cards. Managing yield is critical in such conditions and each domaine employs its own approach. Techniques included de-budding and hard pruning, which tend to be employed by quality conscious growers year-in-year-out, yet steps beyond these were required in 2023, as the crop was so vast. Green harvest became a necessity so that the vine could focus its energies on ripening fewer bunches. Up until the end of August favourable warm conditions dominated with Jean-Pierre Latour, of Domaine Latour-Giraud, relating that there was intense heat between 10th and 25th August. At this point the weather turned appreciably cooler, and rain returned. September saw temperatures move dramatically up to thirty degrees and beyond, eventually culminating in a storm mid-month. This surge in heat pushed ripeness on at a pace, after a much steadier period in August. Concerns turned to rising alcohol levels, and therefore harvest was carried out rapidly across the Cote de Nuits, though it had begun at the end of August in the Cote de Beaune. With Jean-Pierre Latour, we discussed similarities with 2006, a vintage in which many whites had been picked just a little too late. This was not a mistake he was going to make in 2023. More widely, picking early in the day before temperatures grew was adopted by many estates. Vincent Lecheneaut picked between 6am and noon then stopped for the day; the harvested fruit was then held in a cold room to bring the temperature down to 5 degrees Celsius. Picking wasn’t the only significant task; sorting the fruit on reception at the cellars was hugely important in such a plentiful vintage as was finding the necessary resources to do so efficiently. Additionally, tank space was a challenge, given the requirement to ferment larger than normal quantities of juice.Lower alcohol levels than most recent vintagesOur growers reported being happy with the quality of fruit harvested and added that they were able to sort the fruit and discard anything not up to standard with ease, given the generous yield. Alcohols will be a bit lower than we have witnessed in recent hot vintages, coming in around 13%. The wines show bright acidity, in part due to the fact that the heat spikes burnt off the malic content in September, but temperatures were not so high as to reduce levels of tartaric acid, which remains importantly present in this vintage. Some growers elected to run off some juice in order to concentrate their wines a touch, which may well lead to more Bourgogne Rosé than the norm when releases are made! Bleeding off Pinot juice off the skins before extraction begins in earnest allows you to increase the skin to juice ratio and thereby the concentration. Quality-conscious growers handled such challenges well, producing perfumed Pinot, with surprising concentration, but no hint of excess or heady ripeness. Instead, they are underscored by bright acidity and reveal balanced alcohol levels.Whites and reds showing equal successThe whites also came through very well, with that comment on bright acidity signalling energy and focus. Chardonnay is not as sensitive to dilution as Pinot Noir, and therefore the winemaking was plainer sailing for most growers. The 2023s are high on appeal, bright but not austere, with the saline mineral qualities of the vineyards shining through. They possess a mouthwatering style, unencumbered by hefty weight. Perhaps we are becoming used to richer, bolder styles, but the lightness of touch common to the white 2023s is a joy to behold. Actually, I heard it said that the acidity seems to have reasserted during initial ageing, and I would remind you of the comment on tartaric acidity above; these 2023s show a good spine of acidity. Even if it might not be as prominent as some might expect, it balances incredibly well. Harmony is generally well achieved in 2023. Perhaps they may not prove to be the most age-worthy whites, but they more than make up for that with their appealing more-ish qualities. As Jasper Morris has stated: Expect delicious and juicy white wines. He also states that by the time he had ended his autumn tastings he had become more enthusiastic writing: in some cellars this clearly really is a great vintage.All in all, a highly appealing mid-term vintageThis is without doubt a ‘gourmand’ vintage, a more-ish vintage, one where you want to keep tasting as the wines strike a fine balance. It is almost impossible to recognise a past vintage that shares these same traits, i.e. freshness and poise allied to good richness of fruit. The style of the wines is sure to find favour with consumers. In the words of Steen Ohman: 2022 is most likely the better vintage … but perhaps you will love the 2023s more!Richard O'Mahony, Atlas Fine Wines Limited, December 2024
Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash
After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. It has always been our view that it was a misunderstood vintage; wines from this year have shown appreciably better after a little time in bottle, having been difficult to read when very young. From the wines shown, the Barolo Prapo from Ettore Germano impressed clients with its cherry red fruit – for a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, a commune known for richness and power, this is an incredibly pretty example, vintage in, vintage out. Chiara Boschis’ blended Barolo, Via Nuova, drawn from various crus from the across the region, received plenty of praise from clients, too. Perhaps the wine that impressed most from this selection was Vietti’s Cerequio 2018, which showed blue fruit touches, a fine freshness and those slightly rounder tannins that are common to La Morra. The 2019s were a last-minute addition and were the two single vineyard wines of Andrea Bosco which offered an opportunity to compare a Barolo from the lighter soils of Verduno with a richer wine from La Morra; respectively, the wonderfully refined Agostino Bosco, Barolo, Neirane and the darker, brooding Agostino Bosco, Barolo, La Serra. Clients seemed interested in how these two most recent vintages would shape up in time. While the 2019s are the product of hot year, these showed how that vintage manages to show a certain classicism. They will warrant 8 to 10 years in bottle before showing in their prime. In contrast, the 2018s, with their lighter accent, are already starting to show well, even if some of the leading examples will still demand 4- or 5-years patience before really starting to sing. The 2017 table was, for me personally, one of the most fascinating. Not only were some of the region’s most notable growers featured in this line up, but it showcased a vintage that I fear has been a little overlooked. 2017 was a hot and dry vintage and in an earlier era I don’t believe the wines would have come through as well as they have. Growers have had to adapt to modern day conditions in Barolo; whatever way you cut it, this is down to climate change. As I remarked to various clients, in the 1990s there were perhaps three notable vintages which delivered ripe fruit and fine structure, other vintages in which many growers lost precision and freshness in their wines but a greater number of years in which it proved tough to ripen Nebbiolo fully. Leaf-plucking became routine to expose the fruit to the sun and allow aeration. Rolling the clock forward, between 2010 and 2020 we have not had a bad vintage. There have been challenging conditions, but we have had four great vintages - 2010, 2013, 2016 and 2019. Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.
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