JUST RETASTED:
Curly Flat Pinot Noir 2021
2021 hit the sweet spot for Pinot Noir in the high country north of Melbourne
Max Allen, jancisrobinson.com, April 2023
2021 Pinot Noir, Curly Flat
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
There are some wines that simply never disappoint.
Earlier this week I showed the 2021 Curly Flat Pinot Noir at a dinner to people mainly unfamiliar with this Atlas staple. The reception was resoundingly enthusiastic. The pure fruit, the elegance, the poise, the sense of focus and perfect balance were clear for all to see and were commented on, unprompted by me. When I then revealed it was an Australian Pinot Noir, all jaws dropped.
While any vintage of Curly Flat Pinot Noir is invariably an absolute joy, the more I have had the 2021 (several times in recent months) the more I am smitten with this cooler vintage. Prominent Australian journalist, Max Allen, wrote that ‘In a string of La Nina vintages, 2021 hit the sweet spot for Pinot Noir in the high country north of Melbourne.’ This is, of course, where we find Curly Flat – in the Macedon Ranges. The long, cool growing season that characterised the 2021 Australian vintage created wines with beautifully pure fruit and a scintillating freshness and length.
The bottle I had this week showed such healthy ripe red and black fruit - cherry, raspberry, loganberry – offset by subtle, fine, ripe tannins and incredible harmony and persistence. Drinking magnificently. “I could just drink this all day.” was just one of the comments from the assembled crowd. I could not argue. And as summer approaches (tempting fate), this is definitely a red you could chill slightly if so inclined.
I include Simon’s note from when we originally offered this wine as it remains so accurate in its description of the fruit purity and style. I agree wholeheartedly on the basis of my retasting that it truly does combine intensity with a certain weightlessness. “You are in for a treat.”
2021 Pinot Noir, Curly Flat
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
This is a blend of eleven separate lots of differing aspect, soils, and clones. 9% whole bunch fermentation and 14 months maturation in French oak barriques, of which 24% were new., 32% second fill and 44% third fill. No fining or filtration. 13.5% alcohol.
Bright in the glass, perhaps a touch deeper than some years, the nose sings, fragrant red fruit aromas, fresh and pure, with hints of baking spices. Just about as classical a set of young Pinot aromas as you will find. The palate follows in the same vein with an enticing mix of dark red and bright red fruits. The purity shown this year is quite something – there is an effortless nature to this 2021, which shows a sleek textural impression to its swirling dark, juicy fruits. It is carried by such natural vibrancy and the tannins are so finely expressed. Once again, there is barely a whisper of oak here aside from being exhibited in the roundness of the style. What impresses most here is the combination of intensity without weight….classy, classy, classy. That tell-tale, red fruit note on the finish and the hint of spice lead to a positive, lingering finish that leaves you considering the melange of small dark fruits that it evokes. You are in for a treat. Drink 2024-2035+. (SL)