The 2020 vintage was a very early harvest in Burgundy, but surprisingly the wines show in a more classical vein than you might expect. They reveal good concentration of ripe fruit, underpinned by fine, balancing acidity. In general, many examples have drunk well since bottling, but the majority of leading Premier Cru definitely have capacity to age.
Domaine Marc Morey manage 8.5 hectares of vineyard including a tiny parcel of Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru. However, the mainstays of their range are a bevy of well-situated Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, including Les Caillerets, Les Chenevottes, Les Morgeots and of course, En Virondot.
En Virondot is an interesting vineyard, which lies close to Les Caillerets to the south-west of the village. It is a separate ‘island’, not adjoining any other Premier Cru. The vines are 30 years old and lie at an altitude a little more elevated than all other Chassagne vineyards. The name ‘Virondot’ indicates that the vines on this site were originally planted in curved rows – in old French, ‘un virandiot’.
If you are inclined to broach this early, do as I will do today and decant it about an hour before serving, and rest it on ice or leave in the fridge until a little before serving. Giving it a chance to breathe really brings out the fruit expression and mineral nuances that this appealing Chassagne has to offer.
2020 Domaine Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, En Virondot
£360 per 6 bottle case in bond
92-94 points, Neal Martin, vinous.com, December 2021
The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Virondot 1er Cru, which unlike the other Premier Crus was taken from barrel, has a lovely bouquet with hazelnut, orange rind, wet granite and just a touch of praline. The palate is very well balanced with an irresistible peachy entry that segues into a gorgeous quince-tinged finish. Often one of the Domaine best offerings, this Virondot is another to add in a succession of great wines from this climat. Drink 2024-2040.