Hundred Hills: Four impeccable releases, including the new Rosé de Saignée

November 7, 2024

Hundred Hills:

Four impeccable releases, including the new Rosé de Saignée

2018 First Edition, Hundred Hills

£245 per 6 bottle case in bond

2018 Blanc de Blancs No.2, Hundred Hills

£200 per 6 bottle case in bond

2019 Blanc de Noirs, Hundred Hills

£365 per 3 magnum case in bond

2021 Rosé de Saignée, Hundred Hills

£440 per 6 bottle case in bond

This week we had the chance to taste four exciting new releases from Hundred Hills, including a late release of their outstanding Blanc de Noirs in magnum and the much awaited release of their second Rosé de Saignée, not to mention the second released of their ‘First Edition’ and a single parcel Blanc de Blancs.

Simply put, whenever we have the chance to taste the new releases, it underlines to us just how well this estate has done and why they have received the plaudits, including the highest score for an English sparkling wine on jancisrobinson.com

For those who aren’t familiar with this headlining English sparkling wine producer, I haven’t been shy in my praise of Hundred Hills – and frankly each time I taste I have to remind myself that this 50-acre estate was founded only in 2013! Since then it has gone from strength to strength. Owners Stephen and Fiona Duckett happily concede that they are way ahead of their plan on account of the quality of the fruit that they are able to harvest year in, year out. This is one of the things that has struck me most; I am not just wowed by a particular vintage here, instead there is a remarkable consistency which comes from this site. The valley itself is crucial as is its orientation, which means that harvest need not be a rushed affair since they do not encounter any risk of rot as the fruit ripens and can determine the best moment to harvest with relative ease, without pressures forcing their hand. Crucially, the fruit can hang on the vine well beyond 100 days in a cool vintage and once it is harvested, it reveals a riper fruit spectrum than you might associate with the year, or even with English sparkling wine in general. This underlines the importance of the site, and explains why Stephen explored over 100 different locations in the UK before deciding where to base his estate. This is a vineyard that was selected after rigorous assessment of the location and terroir, a vineyard by design not by coincidence. As Stephen has told me previously, the data led them to plant here, nothing else. Had the data been more compelling elsewhere, elsewhere is where they would be.

As to the new releases, please see my notes below. It is clear Hundred Hills is coming of age – styles have gently evolved, but the un-English exuberance of fruit and purity that I have always recognised in the Hundred Hills wines thankfully remain. The bar is being raised year on year here; it is always about marginal gains – tiny improvements or adjustments that lift quality that percentage point higher.

2018 First Edition, Hundred Hills
£245 per 6 bottle case in bond

2018 has proved to be a great English vintage on account of an excellent ripening season. This is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. The Pinot comes from the south-east facing parcels and the Chardonnay from the south facing hillside amphitheatre. Each variety had a long hang time – over 100 days on the vine. The Chardonnay was fermented and aged in oak casks, the Pinot in stainless steel. No malolactic fermentation was carried out, and the resultant wine spent 48 months on its lees before disgorgement. The only other First Edition released thus far was the 2016 – the estate’s inaugural release. 5 g/l dosage.

The nose reveals fine complexity, with creamy, white flower nuances complemented by zesty citrus, lemony notes, tangerine even. The palate showcases that telltale HH exuberance – creamy fruit, a luxuriant mousse with that zesty, orangey note carrying right through to the finish. Complex notes of patisserie, freshly baked, add further interest. Textural, stunningly pure with outstanding crystalline fruit. A very classy vintage for the First Edition, where the Chardonnay seems to match the Pinot on equal terms despite the blend. Very fine indeed. (SL)

2018 Blanc de Blancs No.2, Hundred Hills
£200 per 6 bottle case in bond

Again, from the impressive 2018 vintage. The Chardonnay here comes from the north facing parcels towards the winery. Once more it was afforded over 100 days on the vine. The base wines were aged in a combination of oak casks and stainless steel without malolactic fermentation. Once blended, they were aged in oak to soften with regular batonnage. This wine spent 48 months on its lees before disgorgement. 7g’l dosage.

A very classically styled Blanc de Blancs, not for its origins, but as a general comment. The fruit on the nose captures white flowers, lemon confit, and zesty orange as well as almondy patisserie. Once more the palate is luxuriant in style, but this is taut, energetic with mouthwatering fruit allied to a distinctive chalky dry mineral nuance. It finishes with power and intensity as well as a youthful touch of austerity. Compelling – it will be fascinating to see how this ages. (SL)

2019 Blanc de Noirs, Hundred Hills
£365 per 3 magnum case in bond

A great success for Hundred Hills when first released, this single parcel Blanc de Noirs from the southeast facing hillside won many plaudits. Once more the fruit was on the vine for over 100 days leading to an impeccable Blanc de Noirs. This wine underwent full malolactic fermentation and in magnum it spent 42 months on its lees before disgorgement, in contrast to the bottles (30 months). 6g/l dosage.

A slightly deep, more burnished gold hue in the glass, the Blanc de Noirs reveals discreet notes of juicy red apple, blood orange and a touch of fresh mint. Showing fine poise on the palate, these red fruit notes develop, wild strawberry and red cherry amongst them with hints of pastry and patisserie, all carried by a fine, luxuriant mousse. The intensity impresses, as does the purity, with the palate leading to a finish that captures stone fruit characters, such as nectarine and peach. There is a certain zestiness to finish too, steeliness even, with a marked mineral note leading on and on. The magnums, with their 42 months on lees, show in a very complete manner – a great decision to bottle a small volume of this great wine in this format and to afford it additional time. (SL) Drink now to 2030

2021 Rosé de Saignée, Hundred Hills
£440 per 6 bottle case in bond

The 2018 took our clients by storm – it caught interest and delivered on it. 2021 was a cooler vintage so to produce a Saignée of this calibre says plenty about the vineyard. The fruit for this cuvée comes from specially selected grapes on the south-facing hillside parcel. The fruit was on the vine for 112 days. Once destemmed and crushed, the grapes were left to macerate for 8 hours, when the colour from the skins gently bleeds into the juice. The juice is then bled off into small French oak barrels to ferment. 6g/l dosage.

We are delighted to receive an allocation of this Rosé de Saignée as production is very small and, given the style, the estate receives immense interest from many leading UK restaurants!

All Hundred Hills rosé possess a deep, bright hue in the glass. The team take considerable care to prevent any oxidation that would impair the colour. What a nose, it is extraordinary as if you closed your eyes, you wouldn’t be thinking of a sparkling wine; floral nuances, pink grapefruit, soft skinned berry fruit, cranberry and pomegranate. The palate shows abundant juicy fruit notes, with notes of baking spices and bitter orange. Mouthwatering with fine intensity and a head-turning exuberance of fruit, this vintage fits the HH style perhaps more so than the impressive 2018. The fruit is so pure and expressive; this will be a fascinating wine to partner to many dishes – it will prove incredibly versatile. Fascinating and individual. (SL)

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