Simon and the team at Atlas tasted the 2012 Chianti Classico from Fontodi yesterday at our buyer Vicki Stephens-Clarkson’s insistence and was seriously impressed by the quality on show.
I guess, like a number of clients, I have seldom found great quality in straight Chianti Classico... I might as well say it as I see it. Certainly, I have rated the leading wines of the region - such as the Rancia Riserva from Felsina Berardenga, the Vigneto Bellavista from Castello di Ama or even Fontodi’s Vigna del Sorbonne - but the more humble-priced Chianti often fail to ignite much of my interest. To be frank, I invariably find better value at this level outside of the Chianti classification. That all said, the 2012 Chianti Classico from Fontodi really surprised me and I am pleased to offer it at£75 per 6 bottle case in bond (£160 per 6 case of magnums).
I had never tried the Fontodi Chianti Classico in any vintage although Vicki, having previously worked for the UK agent who ships Fontodi into the UK, was confident that it would impress. She commented that it is effectively the class-leader at this price point and I have to agree; without a doubt I place it ahead of any other examples at this level that I have encountered over the years.
I think the warmer 2012 vintage conditions have helped in creating a more opulent mouthfeel than would be found in a cooler, racier vintage, such as 2010. That mouthfeel renders the 2012 instantly appealing, although this is no supple, simple Chianti; there is an uncommon density to the fruit and a structure that will see it age for over a decade...and all for £75 per 6 bottle case, it is something of a snip!
By way of background, the renowned Fontodi estate covers some 80 hectares in Panzano in the heart of the Chianti Classico district, south of Florence. There is a fascinating feature to this extensive vineyard; it lies in the famousConca d’Oro(literally the golden shell), a south-facing, natural amphitheatre in shape which captures the sun’s rays, thereby giving the wines great ripeness, intensity and elegance. Sangiovese, the grape variety that dominates the Fontodi estate to the tune of 80%, excels in such conditions and more specifically on the prevalentgalestro(schist–based) soils.
To my mind, ripeness can be easily won in notably warm Tuscan vintages but the sense of vibrancy and elegance can often be missing. The Fontodi style, that I have learned to appreciate from the top down, captures a terrific ripeness, but the overriding hallmarks are the plush, glossy mouthfeel and vibrant fruit notes that last long into the finish. Following this tasting of the impressive, entry level 2012, I am pleased to note that these hallmarks of quality are not solely limited to the leading wines in their portfolio. You could broach this Chianti Classico now, and if you wish to do so, by allowing it a chance to breathe in a carafe or decanter, or give it a couple of years to ease into its stride.
The full note from Antonio Galloni, who suggests it has the capability to age until 2027, is below.
2012 Chianti Classico, Fontodi
92 points, Antonio Galloni £75 per 6 bottle case in bond
The 2012 Chianti Classico is round, sweet and super-expressive. Dark red cherry, spice and tobacco meld together as this silky, open-knit Chianti Classico shows off its inviting personality. Succulent and racy to the core, the 2012 will drink well pretty much upon release. This is another fabulous showing from Fontodi. 2017 to 2027.
And for those who, like me, may be inclined to cellar this vintage a little longer, how about buying in remarkably affordable magnums at £160 per case of six magnums in bond?
Buy more Rhône - 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Clos du Mont Olivet
Buy more Rhône2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Clos du Mont OlivetThis estate has been crafting fine Châteauneuf for as long as I can remember. Even in the most powerful Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintages they deliver wines with balance and elegance at their core.Simon Larkin, November 20242023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Clos du Mont Olivet£165 per 6 bottle case in bond2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Cuvée du Papet, Clos du Mont Olivet£300 per 6 bottle case in bond
We should all buy more Rhône!There, I have said it. I remain a huge fan of Southern Rhône wines, even though demand has perhaps ebbed a little in recent years. I honestly think they offer exceptional value as release pricing has not increased appreciably in the last five years or so. And the quality of the 2023s I tasted this morning was exceptional…..the key to their success was the lack of excesses. These are beautifully-balanced Rhônes, with pure fruit and a more-ish ripeness. The 2023s aren’t as headstrong a vintage as you might expect from the climatic data. That’s all part of the Mont-Olivet magic.The 2023 vintage produced rich, powerful wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the wider Southern Rhône. The skill is achieving balance when you have a rich vintage on your hands. The approach employed by the team at Mont Olivet has delivered impressive results in 2023. They favour blends encompassing the full array of Châteauneuf varieties and have not been lured into producing numerous single parcel wines, instead continuing to recognise the value of a blend from across their terroir. The protracted harvest period in 2023 has benefitted varieties such as Mourvèdre and Counoise without a doubt, and the old vines that the domaine possesses were better placed to navigate the drier periods with their deep root systems. The 2023s come highly recommended.I have said it before, but I am a huge fan of the Mont Olivet style. This estate has been crafting fine Châteauneuf for as long as I can remember. Even in the most powerful Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintages they deliver wines with balance and elegance at their core. This isn’t such an easy feat across some of the region’s terroirs, nor necessarily in recent vintages. It speaks volumes for the vineyards employed in their blends, but also the range of grape varieties grown. Clos du Mont Olivet is one of my favourite estates – it is run by three members of the Sabon family: Thierry, Celine and David.By way of background, Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers a plethora of different styles; after all it is a very large appellation. From 2000 onwards, many estates started to experiment by creating micro-cuvées from old plots and employing new oak in an effort to chase reviews, yet all along the team at Mont Olivet stuck to their own style. There is something reassuringly classical at Clos du Mont Olivet. That is not to say that things have not evolved here, but rather that the estate and its wines have not lost their identity or typicity along the way.Today the estate extends over 21 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with a further 14 hectares in Lirac, an appellation to the west of Châteauneuf, supplemented by 10 hectares in the Côtes du Rhône and 3 in the Vin de Pays du Gard. Their vines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape are spread across the appellation and include some of the most famous lieux-dits (or named vineyards). But Châteauneuf-du-Pape is ultimately a blend, so the different locations and terroirs contribute to the complexity of the estate’s wines. Additionally, where many Châteauneuf-du-Pape have moved towards Grenache, with Syrah and perhaps Mourvèdre, or maybe even wines made from 100% Grenache, Mont Olivet has a terrific supporting cast comprising a whole host of lesser known yet historical southern Rhône varieties, such as Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Terret Noir and Picpoul Noir as well as Cinsault. Incorporating all these vines ties in beautifully with their philosophy of being true to their roots and, of course, making complex, age-worthy wines.Harvest time is a tricky period with so many different plots and varietals contributing to varied ripening times. Thierry is very careful with extraction – never wanting to push things too far by extracting too much from the skins; his preference is for elegance and, with fruit as rich as that in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, his approach regularly pays dividends, not least in the recent hot, dry vintages. Each variety is kept separate for the straight Clos du Mont Olivet, allowing them to assemble the blend once they have had the chance to evaluate the fruit from different parcels and varieties. The assembled wine is then aged in either old oak foudres, barrels or in vat. Making great Châteauneuf-du-Pape relies on a whole host of skills and, given the exercise of blending, there is added complexity to the tasks and the resultant wine. The consistency of the wines of Mont Olivet stands testament to the series of decisions taken and never ceases to fascinate me, just as it did on my very first visit to the estate’s cavernous cellars in the heart of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Clos du Mont Olivet£165 per 6 bottle case in bondAs soon as you nose this wine, you are sure to be impressed by the volume of fruit, as it shows a rare freshness to the scented, spiced raspberry and garrigue characters. It is hard to think the palate could be any more-ish; layered, with enough acidity to retain balance and direction. The fruit is so expressive, juicy, vibrant with cherry red fruits, raspberry ripple notes, some darker fruits too, as well as notes of provencal herb, black olive tapenade even. It is the juicy, round mouthfeel that really impresses. It would be no cardinal sin to broach this early, but it has the capacity to age. Such an impressively poised wine in the vintage, rendered all the more appealing by a slightly softer acidity. As ever, this is a bargain – count me in. Drink: 2025 – 2033 (SL)2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Cuvée du Papet, Clos du Mont Olivet£300 per 6 bottle case in bondA darker, more brooding nature is evident on both nose and palate. The nose suggests dark loganberry fruit, black cherry, kirsch as well as notes of garrigue, yet there is a scented, almost floral overlay. So luxuriant on the palate, fine intensity and richness offset by bright fruit characters, that echo those on the nose, with liquorice and black olive tapenade once more. Certainly, there is more heft here, but it doesn’t come across as overtly heady at all, such is the quality and purity of the fruit. That blue-black fruit quality is certainly moreish once more. On the finish, which is incredibly long and flowing, there is a suggestion of stoney minerals, that adds tautness and tension to this impressive Chateauneuf. This looks set to join the great examples of this cuvée. Drink: 2027 – 2035+ (SL)
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Atlas Fine Wines' Simon Larkin MW reviews 12 Saint-Julien 2005 Châteaux
Learn about the wines of one of Bordeaux’s most consistent communes in our latest YouTube video.
Join Simon as he shares his insights following an extensive tasting of all 11 Classified Growth Châteaux of Bordeaux’s Saint Julien appellation, plus one outlier. All the wines tasted were from the 2005 vintage – "one of the greatest vintages Bordeaux has ever produced." As Simon suggests, Saint-Julien may lack a First Growth Château but, tasting wines such as Léoville-Las Cases and Ducru-Beaucaillou in such a great vintage, it is hard to argue that they are not of First Growth quality.
See below for Simon's tasting notes.
