I think I was born with a healthy dose of cynicism somehow; I like to form my own opinions, hence the fact that we taste the wines we offer, decide to purchase based on our assessment, and write our own notes. Sometimes we concur with critics, and sometimes we don’t. Either way, we’ll give our thoughts alongside.
I recently read a fascinating article by Jancis Robinson, written back in 2018, where she talked of the disappointment of opening two bottles of Coche-Dury, one a village Meursault in 2010, one a Bourgogne Blanc in 2011. Coche-Dury is one of the most sought-after producers of white Burgundy without a shadow of a doubt – the ‘basic’ Bourgogne is a couple of hundred pounds per bottle, and the ‘basic’ Meursault is around £500 per bottle. I had the fortune to work for the agent for the domaine back in the 1990s and have had the chance to taste some rare delights from this producer. Latterly, a few generous clients have pulled out bottles to share and so I have had the chance to upgrade my knowledge of recent vintages to a very limited extent.
The Coche style has a very prominent signature – aside from the purity of the fruit and the bright acidity of the wines, there is particular set of aromas and nuances that seduce white Burgundy drinkers. It isn’t just peculiar to Coche, but it is a significant marker for their wines. To pin a few descriptors to them, I have heard tasters employ terms such as ‘struck match’ or ‘struck flint’, ‘smoky bacon fat’ , ‘toasted nut’ – to describe the smoky, toasty nuances. The origin of these characters, which seem much more prevalent today, lie in the approach to winemaking – it is a byproduct of what is known as ‘reductive winemaking’, which is an approach that seeks to exclude oxygen during ageing resulting in these ‘reduced’ sulphide notes that we try to describe. The word ‘reduction’ in winemaking is the opposite of oxidation, in that it is a chemical reaction that involves a dissociation from oxygen. To produce a wine in a reductive Burgundian style, you choose older oak for ageing as the pores of the wood are closed to oxygen, and you do not rack the wine (empty the vessel and refill), nor do you practise lees-stirring or batonnage (when the fine yeasty deposit is agitated in the barrel). It is a less interventionist style of winemaking in many respects.
Since issues concerning wines oxidising early have caused some concern with certain Burgundian estates, the general trend has certainly headed towards this style of winemaking. And it is not just Burgundians that employ these techniques; we have seen a whole host of New World producers adopt the same approach. It is a distinct stylistic decision that seeks to ape the Burgundian style. It doesn’t always work well – I think the wines need to have a good structure for it to be successful and that means a taut minerally acidity. I have tasted some disappointing, loose-knit styles that fail to convince and come across as mere caricatures. All of this preamble leads me back to Jancis’ comments and the wine in question.
After her disappointment, she shared a Dog Point Chardonnay from Marlborough, New Zealand with her guest, and both concluded it was the more exciting wine. Clearly, the comment references those specific bottles, but the discussion of Dog Point Chardonnay caught my interest. Having recently tasted the 2017, I can say that it is one of the more successful New World Chardonnays to have carried off this style with some flair. I wonder if its success relates to its lively limey backbone of acidity. Either way, this organically grown Chardonnay hits the right mark. Is it merely mimicking Burgundy? I don’t really know the answer…there are subtle differences in the fruit characters present, but there is no denying the origin of the winemaking signature. And if it is mimicking Burgundy, does it really matter? No, it doesn’t, providing it is an enjoyable wine at a fair price with plenty of character. In this instance, I concur with Jancis wholeheartedly about the style and surprising quality of Dog Point Chardonnay.
I would be interested to see how the 2017 ages…that limey note of acidity is bright and lively and could carry it as it ages over the next few years under screw cap. Did I mention it is £110 per 6 bottle case by the way? Apologies if I neglected to do so!
2017 Chardonnay, Dog Point
£110 per 6 bottle case in bond
Distinctive toasted nut, crisp bacon fat aromas add intrigue on the nose, with stone fruit and lime notes behind. The palate is lively, taut with a bright acidity carrying notes of peach and nectarine to a long, persistent finish. I admire the boldness of the style, this has surprising depth and a racy, lime infused finish, that persists even after time in a decanter, suggesting that this could gain in complexity with time in bottle, while being hugely enjoyable in its youth. (SL) Drink 2020-2025 +
Please let us know of you interest. Stock should be available within 3 weeks.
All about balance: 2023 Burgundy Vintage ReportMore juice just might be the secret to balancing the excesses of the increasingly common warmer vintages that Burgundy is witnessing. And 2023 certainly provided more juice. It was a large-yielding vintage; cellars are full of young wine gently maturing in bottle, barrel, amphora, glass bulb, vat... Half empty cellars have become a more normal sight. Low yields have been the consequence of early season crop loss due to frost and summers that have been hot and dry, causing berry size to be reduced, resulting in a dramatic absence of juice.
Plentiful yields posing a different challenge to growersIn 2023, the crop was so vast that growers had to actively reduce yield in order to harvest below the maximum permitted levels of 35 to 45 hectolitres per hectare; in some instances, the reduction required was more than 50%. Comparison to yields of other recent vintages is startling. 2022 could be termed a vintage dominated by drought, so in 2023, given the rainfall, the vines overcompensated as is so often the case in such conditions.Higher juice in berries reducing excesses of alcohol and densityIn a bygone age, high yield would have carried with it a fear of dilution, a word which carried overwhelmingly negative connotations. But perhaps it depends on the starting point. Without doubt, ‘new normal’, modern Burgundy vintages are characterised by far greater density and concentration of fruit than was ever previously the case; alcohol levels approaching, or exceeding, fourteen degrees have not been out of the question. In such an era, dilution is, actually, most welcome as it can lead to wines with a far greater sense of balance. The question of increasing yield in the face of advancing concentration will become a frequent discussion point in future vintages, we have little doubt.Theory has it that Pinot Noir suffers under high yields; anything in excess of 40 hectolitres per hectare is detrimental to quality. Theory has also suggested that Pinot Noir requires a long, even growing season to produce high quality wines. Yet many recent Burgundy vintages could hardly be described as long, or even, even. Consequently, much of the traditional theory seems out of sync with modern conditions and outcomes. Given the levels of fruit concentration that we are witnessing in Burgundy and other French regions over recent vintages the topic of allowing higher yields has been mooted as this would bring greater fluidity to the wines as well as moderating the alcohol content a touch.Great sense of freshness and vibrancyThe issue is that we have not witnessed a vintage with yields this high in ‘the modern era’ – some commentators are citing that such volume has not been seen since 1982. And as Jasper Morris writes: For many producers it was the largest crop on record. We’ll take their word for it. Steen Ohman’s description of the vintage seems apt, ‘red and white 2023(s) are painting with a big brush and generous strokes. Some love this [he does] with all the positive traits of generosity.’ Steen sees it as a hedonistic vintage more than a precise vintage. (It is important to understand that for him ‘hedonistic’ does not carry any notion of wines being overripe or overblown but merely that the wines have a profoundly pleasurable drinkability.)So, let’s conclude that quantity is significant and move onto what we should expect of such an unusual vintage qualitatively. The honest answer is likely to be variability. Different growers will have handled the burgeoning crop on their vines better than others, with green harvest (discarding unwanted fruit) and timing of harvest particularly important in such a year. Equally, different terroirs will have performed differently, as will vines of differing ages.In terms of the growing season, it will be noted statistically as the warmest year on record, though much of that is attributable to milder winter/ spring conditions and less of a diurnal shift, meaning nights were warmer. In comparison to recent years like 2022 or 2020, it was a cooler during the summer months and there is a more evident, brighter acidity in the resultant wines. Having dodged the threat of frost in the spring after an early budbreak, the growing season was characterised by warm weather punctuated by regular intervals of rain, which accelerated the vines’ development. Flowering was relatively unproblematic for Pinot Noir, meaning the expectation of a larger crop was already on the cards. Managing yield is critical in such conditions and each domaine employs its own approach. Techniques included de-budding and hard pruning, which tend to be employed by quality conscious growers year-in-year-out, yet steps beyond these were required in 2023, as the crop was so vast. Green harvest became a necessity so that the vine could focus its energies on ripening fewer bunches. Up until the end of August favourable warm conditions dominated with Jean-Pierre Latour, of Domaine Latour-Giraud, relating that there was intense heat between 10th and 25th August. At this point the weather turned appreciably cooler, and rain returned. September saw temperatures move dramatically up to thirty degrees and beyond, eventually culminating in a storm mid-month. This surge in heat pushed ripeness on at a pace, after a much steadier period in August. Concerns turned to rising alcohol levels, and therefore harvest was carried out rapidly across the Cote de Nuits, though it had begun at the end of August in the Cote de Beaune. With Jean-Pierre Latour, we discussed similarities with 2006, a vintage in which many whites had been picked just a little too late. This was not a mistake he was going to make in 2023. More widely, picking early in the day before temperatures grew was adopted by many estates. Vincent Lecheneaut picked between 6am and noon then stopped for the day; the harvested fruit was then held in a cold room to bring the temperature down to 5 degrees Celsius. Picking wasn’t the only significant task; sorting the fruit on reception at the cellars was hugely important in such a plentiful vintage as was finding the necessary resources to do so efficiently. Additionally, tank space was a challenge, given the requirement to ferment larger than normal quantities of juice.Lower alcohol levels than most recent vintagesOur growers reported being happy with the quality of fruit harvested and added that they were able to sort the fruit and discard anything not up to standard with ease, given the generous yield. Alcohols will be a bit lower than we have witnessed in recent hot vintages, coming in around 13%. The wines show bright acidity, in part due to the fact that the heat spikes burnt off the malic content in September, but temperatures were not so high as to reduce levels of tartaric acid, which remains importantly present in this vintage. Some growers elected to run off some juice in order to concentrate their wines a touch, which may well lead to more Bourgogne Rosé than the norm when releases are made! Bleeding off Pinot juice off the skins before extraction begins in earnest allows you to increase the skin to juice ratio and thereby the concentration. Quality-conscious growers handled such challenges well, producing perfumed Pinot, with surprising concentration, but no hint of excess or heady ripeness. Instead, they are underscored by bright acidity and reveal balanced alcohol levels.Whites and reds showing equal successThe whites also came through very well, with that comment on bright acidity signalling energy and focus. Chardonnay is not as sensitive to dilution as Pinot Noir, and therefore the winemaking was plainer sailing for most growers. The 2023s are high on appeal, bright but not austere, with the saline mineral qualities of the vineyards shining through. They possess a mouthwatering style, unencumbered by hefty weight. Perhaps we are becoming used to richer, bolder styles, but the lightness of touch common to the white 2023s is a joy to behold. Actually, I heard it said that the acidity seems to have reasserted during initial ageing, and I would remind you of the comment on tartaric acidity above; these 2023s show a good spine of acidity. Even if it might not be as prominent as some might expect, it balances incredibly well. Harmony is generally well achieved in 2023. Perhaps they may not prove to be the most age-worthy whites, but they more than make up for that with their appealing more-ish qualities. As Jasper Morris has stated: Expect delicious and juicy white wines. He also states that by the time he had ended his autumn tastings he had become more enthusiastic writing: in some cellars this clearly really is a great vintage.All in all, a highly appealing mid-term vintageThis is without doubt a ‘gourmand’ vintage, a more-ish vintage, one where you want to keep tasting as the wines strike a fine balance. It is almost impossible to recognise a past vintage that shares these same traits, i.e. freshness and poise allied to good richness of fruit. The style of the wines is sure to find favour with consumers. In the words of Steen Ohman: 2022 is most likely the better vintage … but perhaps you will love the 2023s more!Richard O'Mahony, Atlas Fine Wines Limited, December 2024
Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash
After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. It has always been our view that it was a misunderstood vintage; wines from this year have shown appreciably better after a little time in bottle, having been difficult to read when very young. From the wines shown, the Barolo Prapo from Ettore Germano impressed clients with its cherry red fruit – for a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, a commune known for richness and power, this is an incredibly pretty example, vintage in, vintage out. Chiara Boschis’ blended Barolo, Via Nuova, drawn from various crus from the across the region, received plenty of praise from clients, too. Perhaps the wine that impressed most from this selection was Vietti’s Cerequio 2018, which showed blue fruit touches, a fine freshness and those slightly rounder tannins that are common to La Morra. The 2019s were a last-minute addition and were the two single vineyard wines of Andrea Bosco which offered an opportunity to compare a Barolo from the lighter soils of Verduno with a richer wine from La Morra; respectively, the wonderfully refined Agostino Bosco, Barolo, Neirane and the darker, brooding Agostino Bosco, Barolo, La Serra. Clients seemed interested in how these two most recent vintages would shape up in time. While the 2019s are the product of hot year, these showed how that vintage manages to show a certain classicism. They will warrant 8 to 10 years in bottle before showing in their prime. In contrast, the 2018s, with their lighter accent, are already starting to show well, even if some of the leading examples will still demand 4- or 5-years patience before really starting to sing. The 2017 table was, for me personally, one of the most fascinating. Not only were some of the region’s most notable growers featured in this line up, but it showcased a vintage that I fear has been a little overlooked. 2017 was a hot and dry vintage and in an earlier era I don’t believe the wines would have come through as well as they have. Growers have had to adapt to modern day conditions in Barolo; whatever way you cut it, this is down to climate change. As I remarked to various clients, in the 1990s there were perhaps three notable vintages which delivered ripe fruit and fine structure, other vintages in which many growers lost precision and freshness in their wines but a greater number of years in which it proved tough to ripen Nebbiolo fully. Leaf-plucking became routine to expose the fruit to the sun and allow aeration. Rolling the clock forward, between 2010 and 2020 we have not had a bad vintage. There have been challenging conditions, but we have had four great vintages - 2010, 2013, 2016 and 2019. Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.
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