Curly Flat 2013

Curly Flat 2013

We have just tasted the 2013 releases from Curly Flat and they are simply outstanding. Simon has said this before, but the quality of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from this estate is amongst the very finest you will find in Australia.

There is an uncommon precision and poise to the wines of Curly Flat; they have real definition and age incredibly well. Situated near Lancefield in the Macedon Ranges, altitude is a key determining factor for the quality of the wines, with the vineyard ranging from 400 to 700 metres over sea level. The cool temperatures delay maturity and consequently the harvest in the Macedon Ranges is one of the last to take place in all of Australia. Such conditions are ideal for Pinot Noir, which benefits from a longer season and for creating restraint in Chardonnay.

I would also add that winemaker Phillip Moraghan insists on exacting standards, ever keen to edge quality higher whether it be by fruit selection or the implementation of biodynamic principles. I first encountered his wines in 2004 and they have impressed me ever since. Since then I have had the chance to taste stunning, mature examples of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, some of which were shown at a dinner we hosted in London last year with Jennifer Kolkka of the estate.

Comparatively few critics have tasted the Curly Flat range – they are not far off a well-kept secret given that production volumes are understandably small. However, Jancis Robinson is one critic who has tasted the range and has even become something of an advocate for Curly Flat. She once commented of an early vintage of the Chardonnay, that it was ‘an absolute dead ringer for mature white Burgundy’ and that ‘the French should be force fed with this (Curly Flat Chardonnay)’. Not confining her praise to the Chardonnay, Jancis also added that Curly Flat produced ‘some of the finest Australian Pinot Noir’.

The 2013s are fascinating showing a generosity borne of a warm summer and yet retaining great balance. They display fine purity and a wealth of fruit as my notes below attest.

2013 Pinot Noir, Curly Flat

£360 per 12 bottle case in bond

Fragrant, floral red berry fruit on the nose, with hints of spice. The hallmark silky, plush texture typical of Curly Flat is in evidence with characters of succulent red summer fruits. The poise is impressive for all the generous mouth-filling fruit, this runs on tighter lines than most Australian Pinot Noir – there is a sense of energy here, with the fruit underscored by an enlivening note of acidity. What strikes me most is the exceptional balance and the persistence on the finish. This is a classy, fine-tuned Pinot Noir, which will age gracefully over the next decade. Drinking 2018 to 2025.(SL)

2013 Chardonnay, Curly Flat

£320 per 12 bottle case in bond

Pale in hue, the aromas here reveal characters of a limey citrus nature with juicy nectarine notes and a stoney mineral complexity. Similarly, complex fruit is in evidence on the palate, with generosity coupled with restraint. The intensity gradually builds on the palate as does a creamier, leesy quality to the fruit. Again this is underscored by a lively acidity that leads to a mineral finish with hints of green lime and candied lemon. A beautiful Chardonnay in line with the very best vintages that Curly Flat have produced. Enjoy young or broach in five to ten years’ time. Drinking 2016 to 2023. (SL)

Once more we are the only company to be offering these impressive wines in the UK.

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