'Crisp cool classically Chablis' from Domaine Gautheron

November 26, 2024

NEW TO ATLAS:
'Crisp cool classically Chablis'
Domaine Gautheron

Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.
Jasper Morris, June 2023

2022 Chablis 1er Cru, Vaucoupin
£140 per 6 bottle case in bond

2022 Chablis 1er Cru, Les Fourneaux
£140 per 6 bottle case in bond

2022 Chablis, Cuvée Emeraude
£110 per 6 bottle case in bond

There is something intensely revealing and instructive in visiting a region for the first time. Invariably, it is as if a veil has been lifted; to see the contours of the land, to witness the aspects, altitudes, slopes and variations in soil colour or vine training is to feel enlightened. Such was my experience as I drove from Auxerre, to the west of Chablis, through to Fleys on the eastern edge of this iconic Appellation. This journey brought me between the Premiers Crus of Beauroy and Côte de Lechet, on what is the left bank of the Serein river, towards the village of Chablis itself before looping north over the river and around the village to pass beneath the, more impressively steep than I had imagined, wall of Grands Crus, with Bougros, Grenouilles and Les Clos sloping down to the road along which I drove eastwards. Montee de Tonnerre and Mont de Milieu followed as I continued towards Fleys, the small village in which Gautheron is based.

Domaine Gautheron is now a 7th generation domaine run by 6th generation Alain’s son Cyril and Cyril’s wife, Agnès Gleizes, herself of a winemaking family from St Chinian in the Languedoc. The domaine has 30 hectares of vines which include holdings in 7 Premier Cru, 5 on the right bank with their marked minerality, 2 on the left bank from where the fruit is more to the fore; how much easier to understand such things with the land there in front of you! It is clear that Cyril and Agnes are passionate about their terroirs and want to do everything possible to express the differences of each. They embrace organic principles but do not seek certification or wish to bound by dogma in a region of so famously challenging a climate, where a vintage can quickly be lost to frost or hail. They have invested in their winery to allow them the space and time to adapt the winemaking according to the parcel. There is some oak use but most of the wines, and the ones I have selected in order to introduce this domaine, are made 100% in stainless steel, which allows the fruit purity to shine and the minerality to be revealed.

The two Premiers Crus offered here are the two that are nearest the winery itself; the Vaucoupin behind it to the south, Les Fourneaux directly in front to the north. The Emeraude is from an organically farmed parcel of 55 year old vines. All three wines are made 100% in stainless steel to cleanly capture the purity of fruit and mineral essence.

In an era of warmer vintages, Chablis has been under the spotlight. Do its cooler climate, highly terroir-expressive, ‘nervy’ wines hold up in the face of climate change? We have tasted many that are clearly struggling. Happily that is not the case here at Domaine Gautheron.

Classically-styled Chablis with pure, cool ripe white fruit and that trademark scintillating persistence of mineral energy is still very much available if you look carefully.

2022 Chablis 1er Cru, Vaucoupin, Domaine Gautheron
£140 per 6 bottle case in bond
From one hectare of 20-40 year old vines in 4 parcels, south facing and on intensely limestone soils – the classic Kimmeridian limestone of Chablis. Fermented and aged in 100% stainless steel to ensure the delicacy of this particular terroir is not masked.
My note:
The combination of fruit and tension here is very appealing with the energy and focus of the limestone really coming through. There is a lightness of touch too and such delicate fruit but with good concentration. The finish is compelling for its tight length. Lovely purity and classicism. Drink 2025-2032
91-93 points, Jasper Morris, June 2023
All has been made in stainless steel. The bouquet offers greengage fruit, certainly not overripe. Good tension, with lemon and lime, a little youthful bitterness, very promising in its classical Vaucoupin style. Drink from 2026-2032

2022 Chablis 1er Cru, Les Fourneaux, Domaine Gautheron
£140 per 6 bottle case in bond
The Fourneaux vineyard is right in front of the domaine and the vines between 25 and 40 years’ old. There is more clay in the soils here together with the limestone, a warmer terroir where picking date is more critical. The Fourneaux is made in 100% stainless steel.
My note:
Open and expressive on the nose with yellow citrus and ripe apple notes. The palate shows juicy fresh fruit underpinned by a taut mineral touch. Subtly full at the end with a juicy, saline lift and a fine sense of tension and direction. Very fine 1er Cru Chablis. Drink 2025-2032
90-92 points, Jasper Morris, June 2023
This comes from a steep south-facing section of the vineyard, known as La Côte. No wood has been used. A little more yellow colour. This shows ripeness, with a bit of liquorice, but has retained all its saline vigour, even a touch reductive. Very good length. Accessible but all in place. Drink from 2026-2032

2022 Chablis, Cuvée Emeraude, Domaine Gautheron
£110 per 6 bottle case in bond
From 55 year-old vines, this is made in 100% stainless steel, spending 18 months on fine lees. Since 2009 the fruit for this cuvee has been farmed organically and the success has led Gautheron to apply this approach across the domaine as much as possible.
My note:
Pure ripe orchard fruit – apples, pears, white stone fruit, on the nose with a touch of white flower and a wet stone note. So clean on the palate with good energy and a zesty lemon finish. There is such a good mouthfeel with excellent tension and energy to this fresh-fruited but classically styled Chablis. Drink 2025-2027 (ROM)
88-89 points, Jasper Morris, June 2023
Minimum 15 months on fine lees. Vines between Fleys and Vaucoupin. Pale to mid yellow, some honeysuckle and ripe melon but not too exaggerated and there are nuances here. This is juicy and grapey on the palate but fortunately the oystershells appear at the back. Excellent length Drink from 2024-2026

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