I have been buying the wines of Tissot for a good few years, and my interest has principally focused on the Chardonnay. Consequently, I rate the Tissot wines very highly from the entry level ‘Patchwork’, right up to the pinnacle, the Clos de la Tour de Curon.
Stéphane Tissot and his wife Bénédicte run a 35 hectare estate in the Jura, renowned for producing wines with great precision that reflect their individual terroir. Today, this biodynamic estate must rank as one of the greatest from the Jura. Stéphane produces 28 different cuvées from his vineyard including 8-10 different Chardonnay.
Arguably the finest Chardonnay they produce is the Clos de la Tour de Curon, which comes from a tiny south-facing plot of 0.75 hectares. This vineyard is densely planted, so the vines work hard to draw minerals and nutrients from the limestone-based soils. The wine is aged in 228 litre barrels for approximately two years before bottling. Only 1,650 bottles are produced on averaged each year, and given the dramatic quality, this has become an incredibly sought-after Jura Chardonnay.
The resultant wine is fascinating, capturing a complex set of fruit nuances from stone fruit to citrus, floral hints, leesy, savoury notes as well as a distinctive mineral quality, all undercut by a bright acidity as is characteristic of so many Jura Chardonnay.
It is easy to see why Burgundy collectors are increasingly exploring the wines of this region; there is a very distinctive character to the wines of the Jura, and the finest Chardonnays can deliver a complexity to rival Burgundian Grand Cru, albeit in a different style.
Luis Gutiérrez is a great advocate of the Tissot wines, when reviewing the 2017 Curon Chardonnay he wrote the following; 'The wine has incredible finesse and filigree and it's complex and structured. It has gobsmacking purity and balance, and it has clout and balance'. He ends his notes with a ringing indorsement, naming Tissot as 'one of the leading domaines in the Jura'.
2018 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Arbois Clos de la Tour de Curon, Chardonnay
£750 per 6 bottle case in bond, 1 case available
£395 per 3 bottle case in bond, 1 case available
2019 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Arbois Clos de la Tour de Curon, Chardonnay
£395 per 3 in bond, 2 cases available
Unfortunately, it hasn’t been possible to trace a critic’s note or score for either the 2018 or 2019 vintages, though La Tour du Curon is scored highly in almost every vintage. Please see below for my note on the 2018 from last September.
2018 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Arbois Clos de la Tour de Curon, Chardonnay
Made with very little sulphur dioxide, aged in barrel on lees for approaching 24 months.
Revealing a golden hue in the glass, the nose is intense with notes of white flowed, citrus fruits, with hints of peach and a distinct leesy, flinty nuance. It shows fine richness on the palate, with more of an orchard fruits accent, apple, pear and white peach with a certain zesty vibrancy, Texturally, this impresses greatly as the fruit is expansive and there is a creamy, leesy quality that is offset by the tell-tale Jura acidity. This is a remarkable wine, refined, elegant with that flinty quality resonating on the finish. Without doubt this is the result of a warmer vintage, but the balance struck is hugely impressive and unique to the Jura. Tissot are masterful in producing these compelling, beautifully balanced Chardonnays. (SL) Drink: now – 2031.
2019 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Arbois Clos de la Tour de Curon, Chardonnay
Not tasted, but 2019 is regarded highly in the Jura, producing wines of great balance and ageing potential. The summer was warm and there was little rain at harvest, which means the grapes were harvested in excellent condition. The resultant wines show good concentration offset by fine freshness. I expect an impressive Clos de la Tour de Curon!
