A trio of stunning Champagnes from De Sousa - in stock and ready to go
They deserve to be better known among Anglophone wine lovers.
William Kelley, robertparker.com
Mycorhize, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru NV, Champagne De Sousa
£330 per 6 bottle case in bond
Caudalies, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru NV, Champagne De Sousa
£330 per 6 bottle case in bond
Blanc de Noirs, Grand Cru NV, Champagne De Sousa
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
We have just shipped our new order from De Sousa and are therefore pleased to offer three sought-after cuvées in bottle format. You may recall we made a pre-shipment off of magnums and jeroboams, which went very well.
It is quite tricky to explain just how highly we rate these champagnes, and even more tricky to explain why they do not receive more attention from critics. I can bemoan the latter point but, frankly, it is to your benefit as, relative to quality, these remain exceptionally well-priced Champagnes, which wouldn’t otherwise be the case!
It is amazing to think we were introduced to the Champagnes of De Sousa after a chance tasting with a sommelier in a Japanese restaurant in Burgundy! The rest, as they say, is history – we have been representing them in the UK for over 12 years.
Here are ten bullet points to keep things fresh and colour in some background on this outstanding Champagne house.
Portuguese descent – it was founded in 1950 by the son of a Portuguese soldier.
Pioneer of both organic and biodynamic viticulture – Erik De Sousa started his journey with biodynamics in 1999, was later Demeter certified in 2013, after achieving organic certification in 2010.
11 hectares across key Grand Cru sites – the De Sousa family have holdings in Avize, Cramant, Ay, Oger, Ambonnay and of course Le Mesnil sur Oger.
Old vines – 70% of their vines are aged over 45 years and some are over 65 with roots extending 10 to 12 metres into the chalk subsoils.
Minerality – all vineyards have chalk subsoils which contribute to the distinctive mineral qualities of the wines.
Low yields – yields are limited to 25-30% less than appellation norms, which means their wines show fine concentration and terroir expression.
Chardonnay – most of their wines focus on Chardonnay, which dominates their vineyards (65%), with Pinot Noir accounting for 30% and the balance Pinot Meunier.
Outstanding cuvées – exceptional blends across their vineyards have become the De Sousa calling card. Think 3A, Myrcorhize and Caudalies.
Traditional approach – tradition is valued at De Sousa with remuage carried out by hand and increasingly, vineyards are ploughed by horse.
Michelin – the champagnes of De Sousa are a feature on many notable French, Michelin-starred restaurants…unsurprisingly.
Mycorhize, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru NV, Champagne De Sousa
£330 per 6 bottle case in bond
Mycorhize is a very limited cuvée of just 3,000 bottles. The name Mycorhize (pronounced ‘me-cor-reeze’) describes the fungi that inhabit the area around the root zone and that create a symbiotic relationship between the roots of the vine and the soil leading to greater mineral uptake. While the whole estate is biodynamic, the Mycorhize vineyard was the first to be ploughed entirely by horse, the aim of which is to reduce soil compaction and thus promote the development of Mycorhize, resulting in a Champagne of significant elegance and minerality. The fruit comes from 80 year old vines cultivated biodynamically on chalk soils in a single hectare plot called Les Hauts Nemery in the Grand Cru village of Avize. This release is based on the 2019 vintage (75% assembled with 25% réserve perpétuelle) with fermentation of the 100% Chardonnay taking place in oak barrels before 3 years aging. Disgorged January 2024. Dosage is just 4 g/l.
Once tasted, seldom forgotten. This has been one of our fastest selling champagnes on release and no explanation needed. Complex aromas of a citrussy nature, with white flowers, patisserie, lemon curd and vanilla pod. Notes of apple and pear are complemented by those characters that lend intrigue and definition to the palate. Captivating – this is a remarkably pure champagne with a softness to the mousse. Layers of caressing fruit flow across the palate with a markedly mineral/ chalky note. The concentration of this cuvée sneaks up on you. Such an appealing, complete Champagne. Flavours linger long on the finish. This is a gem of a wine, as ever. (SL) Drink: now to 2030+
Cuvée des Caudalies, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru NV, Champagne De Sousa
£330 per 6 bottle case in bond
Cuvée des Caudalies NV comes from Grand Cru fruit of old vines in some of the greatest Chardonnay villages of the Côte des Blancs – Avize, Mesnil and Cramant. The vines are more than 60 years old. Farming, as with all of the family’s vineyards, is biodynamic. The wines are fermented and aged in oak barrels for added subtlety and complexity. The first fermentation is 100% in oak barrels of which 8% are new. This release is based on the 2020 vintage, blended in a 50:50 ratio with ‘réserve perpétuelle’ wines from a reserve that was started in 1995, and which thus brings an astonishing complexity to a this non-vintage cuvée. Disgorged September 2024. Dosage 5g/l.
From the first nose you pick up the complexity imparted by the reserve here, smoky, creamy notes, white flowers, chamomile, and just a hint of a biscuity nature. The palate has that rich, expansive feel, with a beautifully cushioned mousse and a satiny texture. Towards the finish, the racy acidity provides focus underscoring the fruit perfectly. Long, stylish and pure, those creamy orchard fruits linger long into the finish, picking up a certain citrus tangy-ness as well as chalky mineral nuances. Exceptional stuff, no other way to say it. (SL). Drink: now to 2030
Blanc de Noirs, Grand Cru NV, Champagne De Sousa
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
100% Pinot Noir, Grand Cru fruit from Ambonnay, based on the 2019 vintage. Base wine aged in oak for 10 months, then aged for 42 months on lees in bottle. Disgorged in March 2024. Just 830 cases produced.
This is the only the second time this cuvée has been made (the first was from a 2018 base, offered last year). It showcases the Ambonnay terroir in some style. Beautifully pure with hints of red fruit, mint, lees and a chalky quality expressed on both nose and palate. It is just so well-expressed, with an overriding sense of harmony. The clever use of oak on the base wine lends a certain roundness to this outstanding NV cuvée, that remains precise and expressive. It is the refinement of this cuvée, with enticing red fruit hints and a deceptively long finish, that really mark it out. It is easy to see why this Blanc de Noirs is winning over clients. (SL) Drink: now to 2030
Not yet bought any champagne for Christmas? This offer should be a god-send for you. Ditch the mass-produced, ubiquitous NV Champagnes that dominate bottle shop shelves and treat yourself to some exceptional Champagnes crafted from impeccable fruit coming from purely Grand Cru sites. We keep saying it, but the quality of Champagnes from growers like De Sousa is streets apart…
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com