A Grasso Barolo triumvirate:
Two brilliant 2022s and an epic 2020 Riserva
This is a positively stellar set of wines from Elio Grasso. The 2022 Barolos are terrific.
Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, January 2026
2022 Barolo, Ginestra Casa Matè, Elio Grasso
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
2022 Barolo, Gavarini Chiniera, Elio Grasso
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
2020 Barolo Riserva Rüncot, Elio Grasso
£795 per 6 bottle case in bond
I have just returned from a brief trip to Barolo and Barbaresco, tasting the 2022 Barolo and the 2023 Barbaresco.
2022 Barolo is in danger of getting lost. It isn’t the easiest of vintages to understand, but it is worth the effort as there are some wines you won’t want to miss. I know this could be construed as a merchant, with a vested interest, talking up a year. But it isn’t. I hope many Atlas clients are aware, from experience of how we have operated these last 16 years, that I would give the vintage a wide berth if I wanted to. So there must be a reason if I choose not to. To be clear, we won’t be buying and offering very many Barolo this year, but as Antonio Galloni wrote in his 2022 review. ‘There are some real gems in 2022, but they are very much the exceptions’. Galloni surely had the wines of Gianluca Grasso in Monforte d’Alba in mind when he wrote that line.
In the main, Barolo 2022s carry the imprint of a scorching, drought marked year quite lightly; many wines defy expectations with a surprising sense of poise and immediacy, showing freshness where heat should have weighed them down. Thanks to some late season rain, some innovative and meticulous vineyard decisions, and Nebbiolo’s natural resilience, some skilled growers delivered grapes of excellent health and structure, yielding wines that can be textured, balanced, and far more compelling than the vintage’s early fears suggested. Unlike the wines of other hot years, you are able to recognise the signature of the different communes; there is a clarity, alongside softer tannins and an inviting, appealing elegance.
I have written it before, but Gianluca Grasso has steadily elevated the quality of the wines made at Azienda Agricola Elio Grasso since he gradually took over running the estate from his father, Elio. Gianluca has never lost his father’s focus on the vineyards, applying his rigorous attention to the smallest details in both the vineyards and the winemaking alike. His mindset and, to be fair, the mindset of the entire team that he runs at Grasso, is about 1% gains – i.e. what tiny changes can they make to benefit fruit quality. This near maniacal attention to detail is common to many great winemakers. A rising tide lifts all boats - when conditions make life easy, the quality of all wines rises. When conditions are more challenging, the skills of a great winemaker show, and all of these small decisions add up – from training canopies a touch high to shade the next row to harvesting stage-by-stage; from destemming fruit in a specific manner to handling of the fruit pre-fermentation. Indeed, with respect to this last point, for the 2022 vintage, the approach that has given Gianluca the biggest satisfaction is ensuring that all the destemmed grapes enter the vat at a cool temperature, which means that fermentation starts at a cooler temperature, which in turn prolongs the period of maceration between skins and fermenting juice. Such an approach may sound simple, but it isn’t easily achieved given the ambient temperatures at harvest time in a hot Piemontese vintage. The benefits, however, are clear in a year like 2022.
We anticipated tasting wines that showed more of the hallmarks of a hot vintage – rich, opulent fruit, softer structure, less freshness/ lower acidity, more evident alcohol and round tannins. For the Grasso 2022s, I would defy anyone tasting these wines blind in years to come to place them in such a hot year; the profiles relate to a more classic vintage. The Grasso 2022s were utterly exceptional, delivering a quality that any grower would be happy with in a five-star vintage, let alone one so challenging. To be clear, this in no mean feat – Gianluca is justifiably proud of his achievements in 2022 and rightly so. When I asked him how he might explain his success, he humorously replied: Older vines. Older winemaker!
The wines are outstanding and I think clients will love the opportunity to broach them early, but remember it does not preclude their ability to age. If you like Barolo to drink, whether young or with maturity, these are for you.
Please see below both my notes from yesterday afternoon and those of Antonio Galloni from last month.
2022 Barolo, Ginestra Casa Matè, Elio Grasso
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
As usual the Casa Matè shows a darker fruit profile than the Chiniera, with dark berry fruit, spice and an almost fresh mint lift. Ample on the palate, with impeccable balance, the tannins are round, soft yet provide a fine frame for the layered, juicy, vibrant fruit which picks up notes of liquorice to add to the dusky, soft-skinned berry characters. Surprisingly detailed and precise, the touch of tangy fruit on the finish provides lift and persistence. The 2022 vintage has delivered a Casa Matè with an immediacy yet an exquisite sense of balance. It will age yet it will prove irresistible in its youth. A shining light in a mixed vintage. Exceptional is the word. Drink: 2027-2040 (SL)
95 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, January 2026
The 2022 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is terrific. Deeply pitched spice, menthol and pine overtones give the 2022 its characteristic balsamic notes. Pliant and deep, with stunning balance, the Casa Matè is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Polished, silky tannins and a burst of red-toned fruit punctuate the finish. This is sublime stuff. Drink: 2027-2042
2022 Barolo, Gavarini Chiniera, Elio Grasso
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
The 2022 carries all the signatures of Chiniera – floral nuances, tangy blood orange, bright cherry and pomegranate. There is tremendous elegance here, but with plenty of substance. Texturally, this sleek Barolo impresses hugely with finely ripe tannins and an inviting softness to the fruit – it is enjoyable right now. Pure, stylish with a brightness to the fruit, the fruit here has retained its poise. Testament to old vines. More-ish and superbly balanced. I can’t see how this wouldn’t win favour with Barolo fans. Drink: 2027-2037 (SL)
94 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, January 2026
The 2022 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is soft, layered and quite expressive. Macerated cherry, cinnamon, mocha, blood orange and rose petal all meld together in the glass. Readers will find a Barolo of density and volume. The Gavarini signatures are present, most notably the wine's brilliant energy, but in a smaller-scaled package that is quite appealing. Drink: 2027-2042
Our visit also included a tasting of the newly released 2020 Barolo Riserva Rüncot… What a wine this has proved to be. Aged in barrique over an extended period, this is fast becoming one of the truly iconic Riserva as it reveals Gianluca’s skill in working with French oak to enhance rather than dominate this stunning wine, which is only made in the finest vintages. Anyone doubting the heights the 2020 vintage can register, will think again when they try this Rüncot. The vintage delivered wines of intensity and poise as well as a rare sense of balance, notably so at Grasso.
2020 Barolo Riserva Rüncot, Elio Grasso
£795 per 6 bottle case in bond
Gianluca has produced a spellbinding Rüncot in 2020. This vintage is all about sleek refinement. The balance was there at the outset in Grasso’s 2020s and patient ageing in French barrique has seen the wine emerge as the epitome of finesse. The oak influence is a reference not a marker here, magnifying the glossy sense of purity that this hillside vineyard characteristically offers. A melange of dusky red fruits, smaller dark fruit notes too, with pomegranate, cola even, and a gently tangy citrus nuance on finish that lends energy and persistence. This is a stunningly elegant Barolo that could be broached now given the extensive ageing, and that would be no sin, but it will age further as desired. Personally, this ranks as the finest Rüncot I have tasted at Grasso on account of the elegance and the fact that the oak is so beautifully resolved. Simply stunning. Drink: 2026-2036 (SL)
98+ points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, January 2026
The 2020 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is just as memorable as it was last year. More than anything else, the 2020 is a Rüncot that prizes finesse over just power. Silky tannins, mid-weight structure and striking delineation further amplify that initial impression. Readers should note that Elio Grasso is releasing the 2020 ahead of the 2019. I can't remember ever tasting a young Rüncot with such finesse. Drink 2027-2040
We understand that points garner attention and that Rüncot has developed a considerable following of late. We ask for clients to place balanced orders across this offer. You will not be disappointed by any wine featured.
Please let us know of your interest.
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com