A duo of Barbaresco from Guiseppe Cortese - including the 'super-classic' 2013 Riserva

May 12, 2020

It was our friend Gianluca Grasso of Azienda Agricola Elio Grasso who told me I should make time to visit the estate of Guiseppe Cortese in neighbouring Barbaresco – and what a great tip that has proved to be! Good news for us and good news for you as the Cortese wines still remain somewhere under the radar, despite being firmly placed on one of Barbaresco’s great vineyards, Rabaja.

The Cortese estate backs onto the slopes of Rabaja where they own a stunning four-hectare plot with the vines approaching 70 years of age. This is a beautiful spot providing enviable views over two other notable Crus of Martinenga and Asili. It is largely based on calcareous clay soils, which, combined with an altitude of 900 feet, produce wines that combine both structure and elegance. The vineyard size may not sound particularly noteworthy, but when you consider that Giacosa, a much more famous name in Barbaresco, owns just 0.6 of a hectare, you rapidly understand the potential and opportunity.

The late Guiseppe Cortese’s work is being carried forward by a close-knit team led by his son Pier Carlo and his daughter Tiziana. Similar to many small Italian estates, Guiseppe started bottling his own wine in 1971, rather than simply selling off the production from his vineyards. Guiseppe has achieved so much on these few hectares of vines, and the family remains dedicated to preserving his legacy; that intention remains at the heart of the estate. The approach here is traditional, by which I mean the wines benefit from long macerations and are aged in large oak foudres or botti, as they are termed in Italy; no new oak, no French oak barriques. Antonio Galloni once commented: ‘as always the Guiseppe Cortese Barbarescos are classically inspired and built.’

I am pleased to offer two wines here, firstly the 2017 Barbaresco Rabaja – to call this an entry level Barbaresco is a joke as this is invariably made from the fruit of vines with 30 to 35 years of age from one of the three of four finest Cru of Barbaresco! It spends eighteen to twenty-two months in large oak casks before bottling. However, in 2017 Cortese didn’t opt to make their flagship Riserva from their oldest vines, which they make in only great vintages; instead all the old-vine fruit went into this wine. This means fruit from vines of up to 60 years in a comparatively humble Barbaresco, offered here at £195 per 6 in bond. I really rated the 2017; certainly, it has a more accessible accent than the 2016, but such pure fruit, with bright cherry, raspberry and spice. The key to the success of this wine is the rounded, unobtrusive tannins, which will allow the wine to be broached relatively early in its life. Though 100% Nebbiolo, it is worth remembering that many Barbaresco show softer-natured tannins than neighbouring Barolo.

I am also delighted to be able to offer a good allocation of the flagship Rabaja Riserva in the outstanding 2013 vintage, offered here at £375 per 6 in bond. This wine is from the oldest vines of the estate, ranging from 45 to 60 years of age. It is aged for forty months in large old oak casks and then aged for a further three years in bottle before release. The complexity that it already showed was fascinating; I noted aromas of rose, leather and spice allied to a full, rich palate offering dusky cherry fruit, with further notes of spice and tobacco. Frankly, this Riserva blew me away – I thought it was truly outstanding when I tasted late last year.

While I have only had one tasting at the estate, Antonio Galloni has tasted this Riserva on four occasions. His most recent note is below, but on various occasions, he hasn’t been shy in his praise.

95 points in November 2019 – the note is below.

95+ points in October 2018, commenting that it was ‘a super-classic wine in the making’

94+ points in October 2017, commenting that it was ‘tremendously promising’

94 point in December 2015, commenting that it had ‘the grace of a ballerina and the punch of a prize-fighter’

It is not often that critics get the chance to evaluate wines on multiple occasions, but Riservas do permit re-tasting given their extended ageing. It is intriguing to see such a set of plaudits and such consistent scores.

2017 Barbaresco, Rabaja, Guiseppe Cortese

92 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond

The 2017 Barbaresco Rabajà is a very pretty and expressive wine. Blood orange, cedar, mint, sweet red cherry and licorice are all layered together. Medium in body, with terrific depth as well as nuance, the 2017 is understated, classy and polished to the core. In 2017, Cortese did not bottle their flagship Riserva, instead all of the best fruit went into the straight Barbaresco Rabajà. I won't be surprised if the 2017 eventually turns out even better than this note suggests. Today, it is really quite lovely. Pier Carlo Cortese gave the 2017 22 months in cask. Drink 2022-2032

2013 Barbaresco, Rabaja Riserva, Guiseppe Cortese

95 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
£375 per 6 bottle case in bond

The 2013 Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva is a dense, brooding wine endowed with serious depth and intensity, Graphite, smoke, cured meats, spice, leather and licorice give the Riserva its decidedly sombre, virile personality. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2013 for at least a few years. Today, the 2013 is in an awkward stage where it is not young, but it is also not mature, and in periods like this, patience is key, as there is not much pleasure to be had. The 2013 won't be released until at least Spring 2020, so there is plenty of time. Drink 2023-2038

Please let us know of your interest.

All the best,

Simon

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All about balance: 2023 Burgundy Vintage Report

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Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash

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Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.

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