2023 Ponce - 'A Grand Cru from Spain.' SL - 98+ points, LG
2023 Ponce - 'A Grand Cru from Spain.' SL - 98+ points, LG
His wines are among the best values in Spain. Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com, January 2025
2023 Ponce, Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce £245 per 6 bottle case in bond
Points help to catch headlines and attention, but they never tell the full story.
Heed the words in this offer, Antonio Ponce (pronounced pon-thay) is crafting exceptional, individual wines that offer great value. They drink comparatively young. They raise the bar for a lesser-known variety or two. They are immensely rewarding. They are not heavily extracted, inky wines that have been matured in oak for an extended period to soften. No, not at all, they are gently extracted, fresh inviting wines with a terrific core of fruit – it is no exaggeration to say they are Burgundian in style. This is one of the most eagerly anticipated releases this year, for me at least, and I urge you to have a read of the words that follow. This is a stunning example of what modern Spanish wine has to offer and Antonio Ponce’s estate is something of a trailblazer. If points inclined you to read this offer further, then they have achieved their purpose!
2023 Ponce, Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce offered here at £245 per 6 bottle case in bond
When we released the 2022 vintage, I said it was possibly the best yet. I might have to revise that statement. The style has been subtly adjusted, actually enhanced by the 25% Moravia Agria that is now in the blend, a rare red grape variety, that adds an intriguing floral overlay and gentle tannic grip to the resultant wine. These are truly world-class wines with the main part of the blend coming from a grape variety than is not often championed; Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce brings out a rare distinction in Bobal, the main grape variety employed, and the results are sensational. I can’t quite get my head around the refinement shown by the 2023 this morning.
This small estate was founded by Juan Antonio Ponce in 2005 at the age of 23. His family had been growing grapes in the region for generations but had not previously bottled their own wines. Their estate is situated in Manchuela, due west of Valencia. Bobal is the dominant grape variety in this territory and, together with Ribera del Júcar and Utiel-Requena, Manchuela completes the trio of Denominación de Origen. The Ponce family owns approaching 70 hectares of vineyard today in the villages of Iniesta, Villanueva de la Jara, Villamalea and Mahora, yet tends to produce small volumes of multiple wines from different parcels. A recent addition of 17 hectares at higher altitudes enabled them to add the white Albilla to their holding, as well as reds Monastrell and Garnacha that are seldom seen in Manchuela. Juan Antonio’s approach is to express the differences between the vineyards and today his estate is farmed according to biodynamic principles.
Bobal has been cultivated here for hundreds of years and is well-suited to these conditions; it possesses a thick skin, delivers ripe fruit, and crucially retains its acidity well even in this dry climate, producing age-worthy wines. The hillside vineyards here permit some spectacular sloping vineyards at lofty altitudes. Ponce’s vineyards are planted at an altitude of 700 metres or more and consist of vines averaging 50 years of age, with the oldest more than 80 years. Yield is an important consideration with Bobal and old vines with their naturally lower yield allow for a limited, yet intense crop. As I commented before, the name ‘Bobal’ is said to have come from the Latin ‘bovale’ meaning shaped like the head of bull and is said to relate to the appearance of the clusters of tightly packed grapes on the vine.
The winemaking approach at Ponce is remarkably traditional, though very little sulphur dioxide is used to preserve the wines. The aim is to produce wine as naturally as makes sense. The grapes are fermented with their stems, as is an increasing trend in modern-day Burgundy. The stems, when ripe, are a valuable source of tannins and add a spicy complexity to the resultant wines. Considerable care is taken to avoid extracting harsh tannins from the skins of the fruit; after all, Bobal is rich in colouring material and tannin anyway. The wines are usually aged in large barrels of 600 litres for 10-12 months before being bottled. As you might expect from their approach, no fining or filtration is employed.
Please see below for the note from the ever-informative Luis Gutiérrez as well as my own note from this morning.
2023 Ponce, Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce £245 per 6 bottle case in bond
98+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com January 2025 The one red that Ponce has decided to carry his name is the 2023 Ponce, the wine he likes as a consumer. This is the sixth vintage of this wine, this year with more Moravia Agria than ever, as it's 75% Bobal and 25% Moravia Agria. The blend is different every year, in search of freshness, elegance and seriousness at the same time. The full clusters of the two varieties fermented together in 4,500-liter French oak vats and matured in a single 5,000-liter oak vat for 11 months. It comes from a large vineyard planted on limestone-rich soils covered with small river stones and very old, spectacular plants. Because of the high percentage of Moravia, it has a paler color, but the grape also gives elegance and polish to the Bobal, softening the tannins and giving it a silky side. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.52 and 5.7 grams of acidity. It is a bit reductive, shy and insinuating, developing notes of flowers (even white flowers), which make it different. But there's precision, elegance and purity. It's a wine that reflects the very high potential of the old vineyards in the zone, well beyond the majority of bulk wine produced in the region. Even at this price, it represents very good value. 7,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2024. Drink 2025-2040
And my note : Ruby garnet in hue, almost a purplish hint. The aromas instantly suggest this is going to be a super refined example, and it is. Fresh, fragrant, lifted with violet notes as well as juicy, vibrant cherry and berry fruit with a hint of the tell-tale Moroccan spice. Such a glorious fruit on the palate, with a silkiness that would be championed by a Grand Cru Burgundy – effortless, barely perceptible, long-drawn tannins provide gentle underpinning to a juicy red and black berry fruit. Such a sleek, lifted wine – it shares more than just the elegance with Pinot Noir. The Moravia Agria has lent lift and texture to the wine – it has such a long, caressing, cushioned fruit with a building sense of minerality to the finish. So fine – and fine is the word. That spicy touch that was common to the wine is still expressed, but less evident here, with the subtle stylistic shift from previous vintages with Moravia in the blend. This is unlike anything you might expect – it is such an individual wine, utterly unique. Totally world-class….It is hard to express how individual this is. Simply stunning. (SL) Drink : Now to 2030+
Hopefully, you pick up on the fact that I rate this highly. It is not stereotypically Spanish – so if your palate leans to refined styles of red, this will appeal. We have developed a great following for this wine – and it wasn’t hard work once people pulled the corks. This vintage has lifted the bar once more from an already lofty base. Bravo Antonio….tasting this morning left me speechless (well, for a moment or two 😊, and that doesn’t happen often). A great wine without a shadow of doubt – a Grand Cru from Spain if you will.
'McHenry Hohnen is an absolute' star in Margaret River' AH: 2022 Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard
'McHenry Hohnen is an absolute' star in Margaret River' AH: 2022 Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard The range of Chardonnays from 2022, in particular, is extraordinary.Angus Hughson, vinous.com McHenry Hohnen, Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard 2022£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
Having just tasted a range of McHenry-Hohnen Chardonnay here in the office this morning, I feel compelled to offer the outstanding 2022 Hazel’s Vineyard Chardonnay which stood out to us here for its incredible purity of fruit. There is a breadth and depth allied to a clarity and freshness. The wealth of yellow citrus fruit was glorious, offset by a subtle nutty note and a light oak touch. But it is the core of fruit that dominates and lingers long.
The Hohnen name is synonymous with quality and innovation in Australian and New Zealand wine. The Hohnen family were the owners of one of the early successes of Margaret River, Cape Mentelle, and it was David Hohnen who established Cloudy Bay, the estate that so significantly opened the wine world’s eyes to the quality that was possible in New Zealand. The McHenry family were vineyard owners who sold their fruit to Cape Mentelle in those early days but have expanded their holdings through canny purchases of excellent sites. As McHenry-Honen, they are now focused on site-specific wines and their range of single vineyard Chardonnay is scintillating.
As Angus Hughson writes: Today, founder Murray McHenry leads the team with assistance from Head Winemaker Jacopo Dalli Cani, among a handful of other top wineries. Dalli Cani's focus on vineyard sustainability and biodynamics has helped him weave his magic to craft stylish, subtle and age-worthy wines. The range of Chardonnays from 2022, in particular, is extraordinary.
Hazel’s Vineyard is the most southerly of their vineyards with a north-facing aspect and with soils of an ironstone gravel over a clay base, such a soil structure providing good drainage and regulating water supply to the vines. As mentioned by Hughson above, viticulture is biodynamic and minimal intervention is key. This certainly translates to a purity that we witnessed ourselves in the glass today.
This is a magnificent expression of Margaret River Chardonnay and, at this price, represents incredible value for a wine of such outstanding quality. I urge you to take a case. I do not believe you will be disappointed.
My thoughts above. The notes of Angus Hughson and Erin Larkin below.
McHenry Hohnen, Chardonnay Hazel's Vineyard 2022£195 per 6 bottle case in bond96 points, Angus Hughson, vinous.com, May 2024The approachable yet finely tuned 2022 Chardonnay Hazel's Vineyard draws you in with highly complex yet understated aromas of citrus flowers and peach stone against a background of gently toasty oak. Crisp and vibrant, a strong core acidity drives searing focus and mineral intensity through to an extremely long finish. The 2022 is so young, with plenty to look forward to. Drink 2030-203893+ points, Erin Larkin, robertparker.com, July 2024The 2022 Hazel's Vineyard Chardonnay leads with creamy crushed and salted nuts, yellow peach and stewed apples. In the mouth, the wine is all about curry leaves and a hint of marzipan, candied almonds and pastry. There is also a hint of underripe pear. In some ways, it is archetypal Margaret River Chardonnay: powerful and yet tightly coiled, with firm acidity, populated by rich fruit and long. The acidity that sits on the back of the palate is fierce, and it serves to rip through the fruit and linger through the finish. I'd say that this wine will be better in a few years, which does make me sound like a broken record. But they really do blossom five years after harvest—so, circa 2027. For now, many will drink and love this, but it will be better! 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2025-2036Please let us know of your interest.Richardrichard.omahony@atlasfinewines.com
Looking for great, non-bank breaking white Burgundy? Look no further than this Chassagne
Looking for great, non-bank breaking white Burgundy?Look no further than this Chassagne Chassagne with great precision and persistence on the finish: elegance and class.Neal Martin, vinous.com 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, En Virondot, Domaine Marc Morey£390 per 6 bottle case in bond
Here is the short version… Finding value in white Burgundy is challenging, particularly 1er Cru, as prices escalate quite quickly.This wine has become a mainstay for us in recent years being a Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet at sub £400 per case.And while I am not keen on ‘best ever’ monikers, this is certainly the finest vintage of this wine I have yet tasted.The 2022 is stunning, with a classical sense of firmness in evidence that used to be typical of Chassagne.In short, at this price point, Virondot 2022 from Marc Morey is a great buy – it is utterly delicious.
Here is the longer version…
Domaine Marc Morey manage 8.5 hectares of vineyard including a tiny parcel of Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru. However, the mainstays of their range are a bevy of well-situated Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, including Les Caillerets, Les Chenevottes, Les Morgeots and of course, En Virondot.En Virondot is an interesting vineyard, which lies close to Les Caillerets to the south-west of the village. It is a separate ‘island’, not adjoining any other Premier Cru. The vines are 30 years old and lie at an altitude a little more elevated than all other Chassagne vineyards. The name ‘Virondot’ indicates that the vines on this site were originally planted in curved rows – in old French, ‘un virandiot’.I have always said that this wine seems to show well at an early stage, certainly in vintages like 2019, in contrast to the comments of some critics. I think that is still the case as the fruit fans out on both nose and palate with time in the glass. That said, the 2022 doesn’t show in such a bold manner, in fact the impression is much more classical, which is at odds with the hot vintage conditions. Those that love Chassagne-Montrachet for that firm mineral backbone should take note as this wine will satisfy that itch in a way that many recent vintage white Burgundy, made in a looser knit style, fail to do.This vintage shows a terrific lime marmalade character, orange zest to the finish, very fine tuned and detailed. A complex stony quality infuses the acidity that adds definition to the rich fruit. As always, there are hints of yellow plum to the finish, yet these are held in check by such a mouthwatering minerally acidity. This is at once inviting yet suggests it has more to give – one of those wines where you find it hard to resist, though you know it could be fascinating with age. Once more, a great glass of Chassagne with refinement and power. If you wish to drink this, early make sure you decant, and place back in the fridge for an hour before serving – you will be in for a treat. And if you have more patience, this is a sure bet for five to seven years cellarage.Please see below for Neal Martin’s note, complete with one of his higher scores for this wine.2022 Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Virondot, Domaine Marc Morey et Fils£390 per 6 bottle case in bond93-95 points, Neal Martin, vinous.comThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Virondot 1er Cru is habitually one of the Domaine's strongest cards, though this year, it is challenged by the brilliant Caillerets. Still, you cannot deny the nose has excellent mineralité and complexity, with touches of chai and chamomile complementing the yellow fruit. The palate is very well-balanced, with great power and precision. Wonderful acidity is interwoven into this Chassagne with great precision and persistence on the finish: elegance and class. Drink 2025-2045.Please let us know of your interest.Simonsimon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com
Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash
After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. It has always been our view that it was a misunderstood vintage; wines from this year have shown appreciably better after a little time in bottle, having been difficult to read when very young. From the wines shown, the Barolo Prapo from Ettore Germano impressed clients with its cherry red fruit – for a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, a commune known for richness and power, this is an incredibly pretty example, vintage in, vintage out. Chiara Boschis’ blended Barolo, Via Nuova, drawn from various crus from the across the region, received plenty of praise from clients, too. Perhaps the wine that impressed most from this selection was Vietti’s Cerequio 2018, which showed blue fruit touches, a fine freshness and those slightly rounder tannins that are common to La Morra. The 2019s were a last-minute addition and were the two single vineyard wines of Andrea Bosco which offered an opportunity to compare a Barolo from the lighter soils of Verduno with a richer wine from La Morra; respectively, the wonderfully refined Agostino Bosco, Barolo, Neirane and the darker, brooding Agostino Bosco, Barolo, La Serra. Clients seemed interested in how these two most recent vintages would shape up in time. While the 2019s are the product of hot year, these showed how that vintage manages to show a certain classicism. They will warrant 8 to 10 years in bottle before showing in their prime. In contrast, the 2018s, with their lighter accent, are already starting to show well, even if some of the leading examples will still demand 4- or 5-years patience before really starting to sing. The 2017 table was, for me personally, one of the most fascinating. Not only were some of the region’s most notable growers featured in this line up, but it showcased a vintage that I fear has been a little overlooked. 2017 was a hot and dry vintage and in an earlier era I don’t believe the wines would have come through as well as they have. Growers have had to adapt to modern day conditions in Barolo; whatever way you cut it, this is down to climate change. As I remarked to various clients, in the 1990s there were perhaps three notable vintages which delivered ripe fruit and fine structure, other vintages in which many growers lost precision and freshness in their wines but a greater number of years in which it proved tough to ripen Nebbiolo fully. Leaf-plucking became routine to expose the fruit to the sun and allow aeration. Rolling the clock forward, between 2010 and 2020 we have not had a bad vintage. There have been challenging conditions, but we have had four great vintages - 2010, 2013, 2016 and 2019. Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.
