2023 Escalada, Algueira - a showstopping Godello from Galicia
2023 Escalada, Algueira
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
You have most likely consumed a perfectly respectable, if uncomplicated, glass of Godello at some point, but it is capable of so much more, particularly when grown in the best locations of Galicia such as Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras or Monterrei.
Often it is made in a straightforward manner, harnessing its zesty fruit and bright acidity, but barrel fermenting and ageing, with the fine lees (yeast deposit that forms after fermentation) can really add to the complexity and character. Equally, the best sites bring out a slightly slatey quality and a certain silkiness on the palate. When treated in this way, there seems to be a structural similarity with Chardonnay, which may be at odds with what you expect based on a bistro Godello. I am fascinated by the stylistic variation…and the barrel aged versions can be seriously head-turning., just like the example offered here from Algueira.
Considered one of the pioneers in Ribeira Sacra, this estate, which is perched on the slopes of Doade in the Amandi subzone is managed by the second generation, in the capable hands of Fabio Gonzales Riveiro and his wife, Ana. The focus is increasingly on producing site-specific wines, which have garnered strong reviews in the first few vintages to be released. The estate extends over 21 hectares of slatey, schistous vineyards, which is supplemented by some purchases of fruit from contracted growers. 2023 was a really successful vintage, warm with crucial rains in August that brought about fine ripeness. You could say warm enough to build ripeness yet cool enough to retain freshness.
The result is a highly appealing Godello; pale-gold in colour, with aromas of orange and citrus offset by hints of creamy, pastry from the ageing and in barrel. On the palate, it has very fine concentration with a zesty, lively lemony note adding definition to the round, generous citrus fruit. There is a certain glossy quality to the texture and smoky, slatey mineral hint to the finish. This is seriously impressive and a very smart buy for the price. The winemaking choices have been impeccable – nothing overpowers the fruit or the natural minerality of the site, but it is gently fashioned to build roundness and complexity. I might have found a new favourite here as this is seriously impressive. Drinking superbly now, you could age this for five years if you wished or could resist.
Please see Luis Gutiérrez’s note from robertparker.com below.
2023 Escalada, Algueira
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
93+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com
The 2023 Escalada is a single-vineyard wine they have produced for a while. It's made with Godello from what they consider their best place, Carballocobo, on a steep slate slope. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in 800-liter French oak vats and matured in 1,000-liter oak vats for 10 months with lees and soft bâtonnage. In 2023, it achieved high ripeness and reached 14% alcohol but kept good freshness (pH of 3.2) and acidity (six grams). After one year in bottle, the wine has settled. It has an elegant nose, clean and subtle, and a polished palate. 3,234 bottles were filled in August 2024. Drink: 2025-2032
Please let us know of your interest.
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com