2023 Chardonnay, Novum from Marlborough, New Zealand
An impressive glass of Chardonnay.
Simon Larkin MW
2023 Chardonnay, Novum
£175 per 6 bottle case in bond
Affordable Australian and New Zealand Chardonnays certainly feature heavily in my personal cellar for regular drinking. As general as these comments are, and I have said it before, I find far greater value relative to quality than I do with a category like Bourgogne Blanc, for example. I also find a little more balancing acidity and freshness than is apparent in lower end, hot/ dry vintage Burgundy. Heresy? No, show me a Bourgogne Blanc than I can put up against this Novum Chardonnay from Marlborough at effectively the same price, and you might manage it. But finding one that competes on personality and quality would be tricky, to say the least.
More specifically, the wine in question is another great release from Will Hoare at Novum. I would like to call Will a talented young winemaker but, given that we both worked together at the Fromm Winery in 2000, I am not sure I can get away with that statement, much as I might like to! 😊
The Novum approach is straight-forward. They supplement production from their own vineyards with small parcels of fruit from impeccable sources in the region. Winemaking-wise, they are relatively low interventionist; in Will’s words they ‘guide (rather than force) the fruit through the winemaking process’, and it shows. Oak is a mere background reference in the wine, the fruit taking centre stage. I like the gently, smoky, leesy nature that this bright-fruited 2023 Chardonnay reveals as it opens in the glass to offer juicy, oily citrus and nectarine nuances. There is a touch of mineral dryness in evidence to finish that, personally, I love and the fruit shows impressive length. It doesn’t fall into the overly reductive category, with those strong toasted nut overtones, though there is a subtle element of this nature. Nor is it so exuberantly ripe that it loses its sense of precision. Frankly, you could say it is fairly Burgundian in style. I think this 2023 is an impressive glass of Chardonnay to drink in the short-term; spot on now but will certainly age over the next five or six years as desired.
Please see below for, fellow MW, Rebecca Gibb’s note from vinous.com. Rebecca tasted in March of this year but, six months on, I am not finding the almond croissant note she describes. I do, however, agree about the energy, the harmony and the discreet oak as well as with her drinking window. I would also add that it does benefit from a chance to breathe; it really opens up and shines with a little air.
2023 Chardonnay, Novum
£175 per 6 bottle case in bond
92 points, Rebecca Gibb MW (March 2025)
While restrained, there’s a ripeness to the 2023 Chardonnay Marlborough, with white stone fruit meeting savory notes akin to almond croissant. Round and mouthfilling without feeling overdone, it retains a sense of energy and purpose. The oak is discreet, holding the wine’s fruit in place and providing overall harmony. The finish is medium-long and refreshing. Drink 2025-2033
Please let us know of your interest and note the stock will be available in early October. I think you might be really pleased to add a case or two of this to your wine rack…
Please let us know of your interest.
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com