2022 Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine J C Ramonet
£7,350 per three-bottle case in bond
Remarkably, despite its status among the world's most sought-after white wines, critical commentary on Ramonet's Montrachet is often surprisingly scarce in its youth. Perhaps the Ramonet brothers are comfortable in what they are doing and don’t feel the need to let critics in, who knows, but the domaine's Montrachet tends to disappear quietly into private cellars, emerging only many years later when maturity begins to reveal its full complexity. As a consequence, even professional tastings are relatively uncommon in the years immediately following release as much as they are from barrel.
What we can assess, however, is a remarkable track record. Allen Meadows of Burghound has repeatedly singled out Ramonet's Montrachet amongst the finest white Burgundies of recent decades, awarding 99 points to the 2012 and 98 points to both the 2014 and 2015 vintages. His assessment of the 2020 vintage was particularly striking, culminating in a score of 98 points and the observation:
'Like the Chevalier, the mouthfeel of the larger-bodied flavors is super-sleek and while they're not incredibly dense or even overtly powerful, they exude an ineffable class while delivering positively huge persistence on the perfectly well-balanced finale that stains the palate with dry extract. As good as the Chevalier is, and it's frankly as good as any Chevalier in the 2020 vintage, the Montrachet just has an extra dimension of depth. I can't tell you, or describe for you, why exactly, it just does. While it's true that the 2020 vintage produced any number of genuinely great whites, the Ramonet Montrachet would have to be considered in any discussion of the best of the best.'
That observation resonates strongly with my own limited experience. Recently, I had the opportunity to taste both the 2012 and 2013 vintages side by side. The 2012 was everything one might expect from a great Montrachet, richer, broader and more powerful, with an extraordinary depth of fruit and intensity. Yet it was the 2013 that ultimately captured my imagination. Finer, racier and more precise, it possessed a remarkable sense of tension and energy that lingered long after the wine had left the glass. Choosing between the two felt almost absurd, but if pressed, it was the 2013 that edged ahead.
Perhaps that experience best illustrates the challenge of describing great Montrachet. The distinction is rarely one of simple concentration or power. Rather, the greatest examples seem to possess an additional dimension, an almost impossible combination of intensity, precision, persistence and harmony.
The 2022 vintage is increasingly being viewed as one of the strongest recent vintages for white Burgundy. While formal critical commentary remains limited, the reputation of the vintage continues to strengthen as more wines are tasted after some time in bottle.
What makes this offer particularly compelling, however, is the pricing. A sealed three-bottle case of Ramonet Montrachet 2017 is currently offered in the UK market at approximately £9,500 in bond, while a six-bottle case of the 2021 is available at £19,885 in bond, equivalent to almost £9,950 per three bottles. Against that backdrop, the opportunity to secure the 2022 at £7,350 per three-bottle case in bond looks highly attractive.
Indeed, while searching for a case for a client only yesterday, I was surprised to find two and thus felt compelled to present this opportunity today. Given the stature of both the producer and the vineyard, availability is already remarkably limited. For collectors of the greatest white Burgundies, opportunities to purchase Ramonet Montrachet are increasingly few and far between. Even rarer are occasions when the price appears favourable relative to both older and younger vintages already trading in the market.
2022 Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Ramonet
£7,350 per three-bottle case in bond
1 x three-bottle case available
In the rarefied world of grand cru white Burgundy, this strikes me as an opportunity well worth considering.
Please let us know of your interest.
Simon
finewineoffers@atlasfinewines.com