2022 Albariño, Gran Vino from Pazo Barrantes - a different take
2022 Albariño Gran Vino, Pazo Barrantes
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
Albariño has become one of Spain's most recognisable white grape varieties, yet familiarity can sometimes lead to assumptions. Many drinkers associate the grape with the vibrant, saline-infused wines of Rías Baixas; refreshing, citrus-driven examples bursting with peach, lemon zest and coastal freshness. Whilst that style remains enormously appealing, Albariño is capable of far more than many realise.
Pazo Barrantes, owned by the family behind the celebrated Rioja estate Marqués de Murrieta, offers a compelling alternative interpretation. The Murrieta family's history stretches back to 1852, and their reputation has long been built on crafting some of Spain's most respected wines. In 1989, they acquired the historic Pazo Barrantes estate in the Salnés Valley, the heartland of Albariño country, with the ambition of producing a white wine that could stand amongst Spain's finest.
The estate comprises twelve hectares of mature Albariño vineyards surrounding the historic manor house from which it takes its name. Rather than pursuing solely freshness and immediacy, the team has developed a style that emphasises depth, structure and longevity. The 2022 vintage reflects this philosophy perfectly. A small proportion of the wine was fermented and matured in oak, while extended ageing before release has added further complexity and integration. The use of oak is subtle and restrained, intended not to dominate but to broaden the wine's texture and enhance its capacity to age. It results in a different style on a familiar variety.
Tasting the 2022, I was struck by just how different this wine felt from the stereotypical image of Albariño. Yes, there are notes of ripe stone fruits and hints of the Atlantic influence that define the region, but the palate is far richer and more layered than one might expect. There is a gentle viscosity and breadth to the texture, coupled with a softer, more supple acidity than the brighter, zingier examples that often define the category. In some respects, it reminded me of a fine white Rhône, combining generosity and textural complexity with impressive balance and poise.
What impressed me most was not simply the quality, but the perspective it offered. Pazo Barrantes demonstrates that Albariño is not a singular style. Beyond the fresh, saline, peach-scented wines that have made the grape so popular lies another expression: more contemplative, more textural with fine complexity. This is one of those wines that challenges expectations whilst remaining entirely true to its origins and the ambitions of the estate.