2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Mont Olivet : the product of an exceptional vintage

March 9, 2021

Few critics have pronounced yet, but I expect the 2019 vintage in the Southern Rhône to go down as a great year. From my limited tastings of samples sent to me at home, it seems clear that 2019 will outperform the more opulent 2018s in terms of quality and longevity and could be inked in as a modern-day classic for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Rhône critic, Jeb Dunnuck, commented as follows, while promising an in-depth review later this year: the 2019s ‘offer more depth, concentration, and richness, all while showing considerable purity of fruit and elegance.’ He adds that ‘in short, 2019 appears to be a beautiful, possibly exceptional, vintage for the Southern Rhône’.

I was fortunate to receive samples of both 2018s and 2019s from one of my favourite estates, namely ‘Clos du Mont Olivet’ run by three members of the Sabon family. I used to visit Celine, David and Thierry every year with my good friend, the late John Gauntley, who acted as agent for the estate in the UK. John had a great palate when it came to the Rhône and he certainly influenced my buying decisions early in my career. Mont Olivet was an estate on which we agreed wholeheartedly. In an era when Châteauneuf-du-Pape offered a plethora of different styles and many estates started to experiment and to create micro-cuvées from old plots in an effort to chase Parker points, there was something reassuringly traditional at Clos du Mont Olivet. That is not to say that things have not evolved here, but rather that the estate and its wines have not lost their identity or typicity.

Today the estate extends over 21 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with a further 14 hectares in Lirac, to the west of the appellation, supplemented by 10 hectares in the Côtes du Rhône and 3 in the Vin de Pays du Gard. Their vines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape are spread across the appellation and include some of the most famous lieux-dits (or named vineyards), but Châteauneuf-du-Pape is ultimately a blend, so the different locations and terroirs contribute to the complexity of the estate’s wines. Additionally, where many Châteauneuf-du-Pape have moved towards Grenache, with Syrah and perhaps Mourvèdre, or maybe even wines made from 100% Grenache, Mont Olivet has a terrific supporting cast comprising a whole host of lesser known yet historical southern Rhône varieties, such as Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Terret Noir and Picpoul Noir as well as Cinsault. Incorporating all these vines ties in beautifully with their philosophy of being true to their roots…and, of course, making complex, age-worthy wines.

Harvest time is a tricky period with so many different plots and varietals contributing to varied ripening times. Thierry is very careful with extraction – never wanting to push things too far by extracting too much from the skins, his preference is for elegance and with fruit as rich as that in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, his approach regularly pays dividends, not least in the recent hot, dry vintages. Each variety is kept separate for the straight Clos du Mont Olivet, allowing them to assemble the blend once they have had the chance to evaluate the fruit from different parcels and varieties. The assembled wine is then aged in either old oak foudres, barrels or in vat. Making great Châteauneuf-du-Pape relies on a whole host of skills and, given the exercise of blending, there is added complexity to the tasks and the resultant wine. The consistency of the wines of Mont Olivet stands testament to the series of decisions taken and never ceases to fascinate me, just as it did on my very first visit to the estate’s cavernous cellars in the heart of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

I am really pleased to offer a trio of hugely impressive 2019s from Clos du Mont Olivet, including their new Lirac – they each offer exceptional value and great prospects for ageing. Please see my full notes below.

2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Clos du Mont Olivet

£145 per 6 bottle case in bond
A blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and 4% from a mixture of Cinsault, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Terret Noir and Picpoul Noir.
Deep crimson in the glass with a stunning nose of dark fruits, wonderfully ripe, kirsch and aromatic Provençal herbs, or garrigue as it is so often described. This couldn’t be from anywhere else but the Southern Rhône – it reveals a gorgeous, juicy fruit on the palate with notes of fragrant red fruit adding lift to spiced loganberry and blackberry. The tannins are impeccable, so fine-grained and barely intrusive even at this young stage. While it is admirably concentrated, it never loses its focus and sense of balance. Slight mineral notes come through to the finish, as does a certain peppery quality to the fruit, but nothing distracts from the beautifully pure fruit on show. A classic example in the making. Drink 2022-2034 (SL)

2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Cuvée du Papet, Clos du Mont Olivet

£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
This wine is only made in exceptional vintages from the oldest Grenache vines on the estate, planted in 1901 in the two lieux-dits of Mont Olivet and Bois Dauphin. The Grenache component accounts for approximately 75%, with Mourvèdre and Syrah in support. Here, the three varieties are fermented together.
Deeper in the glass than the ‘Mont Olivet’ above, the aromatics are really quite something. Notes of juicy dark fruits, sous-bois or forest floor, lavender and aromatic herbs, but also a touch of liquorice. The palate is intense, with a broad swathe of admirably ripe, lightly spiced dark, luscious stone-fruits. There is an endless sense of depth here, layer after layer of expressive fruit. It just gets better and better in the glass; the tannins are so sleek, but currently hold the fruit just about in check. What fascinates me is how such a rich, powerful wine can retain such freshness in a vintage like 2019. This is simply stunning – a benchmark Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Drink 2025-2040. (SL)

Footnote : I have been fortunate enough to taste some of the very greatest vintages of Cuvée du Papet, including the 2007, the 2010 as well as the 1990 and 1989. I have little doubt that the 2019 will join this exceptional set. If you look at the reviews for these vintages, you will quickly note that they rank as some of the most revered wines in the region and rightly so.

2019 Lirac, Cuvée Marie-Jausset, Clos du Mont Olivet
£105 per 6 bottle case in bond
The Sabons employ the same approach here as they do with Cuvée Papet, this time in Lirac. This is an expression of the best plots in their vineyards in Lirac and is named in honour of the great grandmother. The vines are located in Saint-Laurent-des-Arbes and Saint-Geniès-de-Comolas. The blend is 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah.
This blend is an absolute success. Bright in the glass with a youthful purplish hue, the nose offers fragrant red and dark fruits like summer berry pudding. There is a beautiful, lifted floral accent that continues to the palate, which is packed with spiced raspberry fruit and notes of garrigue. This is just so streamlined, bright and juicy fruit all the way, but there is a complexity too, with spice, black olive and dusky damson notes gradually unfurling. The Sabons have always produced good Lirac, but this raises the bar. It will be interesting to see how this ages over the mid-term as it certainly warrants some cellarage. A very fine new addition in its second vintage. Impressive and something of a snip. Drink 2022-2030 (SL)

It is an absolute joy to be offering these wines once more – previous bottles have lived long in the memory.

Please let us know of your interest.

All the best,

Simon

Back to Offers

Related news

Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash

After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. It has always been our view that it was a misunderstood vintage; wines from this year have shown appreciably better after a little time in bottle, having been difficult to read when very young. From the wines shown, the Barolo Prapo from Ettore Germano impressed clients with its cherry red fruit – for a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, a commune known for richness and power, this is an incredibly pretty example, vintage in, vintage out. Chiara Boschis’ blended Barolo, Via Nuova, drawn from various crus from the across the region, received plenty of praise from clients, too. Perhaps the wine that impressed most from this selection was Vietti’s Cerequio 2018, which showed blue fruit touches, a fine freshness and those slightly rounder tannins that are common to La Morra. The 2019s were a last-minute addition and were the two single vineyard wines of Andrea Bosco which offered an opportunity to compare a Barolo from the lighter soils of Verduno with a richer wine from La Morra; respectively, the wonderfully refined Agostino Bosco, Barolo, Neirane and the darker, brooding Agostino Bosco, Barolo, La Serra. Clients seemed interested in how these two most recent vintages would shape up in time. While the 2019s are the product of hot year, these showed how that vintage manages to show a certain classicism. They will warrant 8 to 10 years in bottle before showing in their prime. In contrast, the 2018s, with their lighter accent, are already starting to show well, even if some of the leading examples will still demand 4- or 5-years patience before really starting to sing. The 2017 table was, for me personally, one of the most fascinating. Not only were some of the region’s most notable growers featured in this line up, but it showcased a vintage that I fear has been a little overlooked. 2017 was a hot and dry vintage and in an earlier era I don’t believe the wines would have come through as well as they have. Growers have had to adapt to modern day conditions in Barolo; whatever way you cut it, this is down to climate change. As I remarked to various clients, in the 1990s there were perhaps three notable vintages which delivered ripe fruit and fine structure, other vintages in which many growers lost precision and freshness in their wines but a greater number of years in which it proved tough to ripen Nebbiolo fully. Leaf-plucking became routine to expose the fruit to the sun and allow aeration. Rolling the clock forward, between 2010 and 2020 we have not had a bad vintage. There have been challenging conditions, but we have had four great vintages - 2010, 2013, 2016 and 2019. Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.

Shipping to the USA - made easy

’Your service in organising and shipping my wine from the UK to California was excellent - quick, efficient and stress free’’.Jack K. Through our long-standing partnerships with trusted global shipping companies, Atlas Fine Wines provides comprehensive door-to-door services across the United States. Whether by air or sea freight, we handle all aspects of the shipment process. Recognising that costs and terms differ by state, we offer detailed quotations that outline the costs involved, including insurance. Additionally, we recommend temperature-controlled services for valuable and exceptionally rare fine wines. Our services cater to shipments of all sizes, ensuring a seamless experience for every client. You would also be provided with a link allowing you to track your consignment once it has cleared customs. For more information, or to discuss your requirements in more detail please send an email to: celine.larkin@atlasfinewines.com

Atlas Fine Wines' Simon Larkin MW reviews 12 Saint-Julien 2005 Châteaux

Learn about the wines of one of Bordeaux’s most consistent communes in our latest YouTube video. Join Simon as he shares his insights following an extensive tasting of all 11 Classified Growth Châteaux of Bordeaux’s Saint Julien appellation, plus one outlier. All the wines tasted were from the 2005 vintage – "one of the greatest vintages Bordeaux has ever produced." As Simon suggests, Saint-Julien may lack a First Growth Château but, tasting wines such as Léoville-Las Cases and Ducru-Beaucaillou in such a great vintage, it is hard to argue that they are not of First Growth quality. See below for Simon's tasting notes.