2017 Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

September 18, 2020

If we told you that Burgundy prices of Grand Cru had escalated dramatically over the last years, you would hardly call that news; after all this has been well-documented in the press. Even when it seemed that we were approaching the upper price limit for certain rare Burgundy, they kicked on further. In January this year, in an article entitled ‘Heady returns for Burgundy investors as index climbs a third’, the Financial Times cited the fact that the Liv-ex Burgundy 150, their index of the most traded wines from the region, climbed 35% in 2018.

As comforting as such facts and headlines might be to those with portfolios of fine Burgundy with some inclination to onward sale, it does mean that the rarest Burgundy are moving out of reach for a large proportion of fine wine drinkers. These prices show no signs of abating either, as they are essentially underwritten by the price of vineyard land in Burgundy. Grand Cru vineyard land has doubled in value in 10 years, with a single hectare (2.2 acres) of a Grand Cru costing as much as 14 million euros.

This year we took the decision to decline an allocation from a fine domaine in Burgundy as we just felt that their prices had moved so rapidly that our wine buying audience were struggling to keep up. Rightly or wrongly, we couldn’t endorse the price demanded, which had shot up 400% in just four vintages.

Understandably our attention has moved to up-and-coming domaines which are yet to receive full recognition, where prices and value remain favourable. It is still possible to find value, relative value. Domaine Rossignol-Trapet’s Chambertin is one such wine…

Neal Martin wrote last January that ‘Domaine Rossignol-Trapet rarely attracts headlines and yet they consistently produce very fine wines that deserve more attention. Maybe that is because brothers Nicolas and David Rossignol are not attention-seekers and prefer to let their wines do the talking. Certainly, the wines are vastly improved since the brothers began in 1990, and the last decade has seen an upswing in quality…’

The domaine boasts some 13 hectares of vineyard, all of which has now been successfully converted to biodynamic viticulture. The majority of their holdings lie in the Côte de Nuits, centred on the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, though ten percent of their vineyards are in Beaune and Savigny-lès-Beaune. The Chambertin, Chapelle and Latricières-Chambertin are certainly the gems in their range, though they also produce an impressive Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes.

Such an extensive vineyard holding was brought about by the joining by marriage of the Rossignols, in Volnay, to the Trapets in Gevrey. These are wines with fine fruit purity and elegance, new oak is always measured, with Grand Cru seeing around 40% - 50% - a figure that is reasonably low by Grand Cru standards across the Côte de Nuits.

Normally, we are unable to offer a Grand Cru on its own, without clients needing to balance, but in this instance, we are pleased to offer the 2017 Chambertin on its own. It goes without saying that volumes are limited, but we have secured a healthy number of cases to offer. As to 2017 as a vintage, the chance to revisit the region has confirmed our initial view that the best 2017s offer the generosity and supple attack of a warmer vintage yet the refinement and freshness of a cooler, classic year. You can look forward to ripe-natured wines with fine poise, and yet wines that are likely to be easier to appreciate in their youth. If anything, our view of the vintage has been enhanced by our later tastings. The Rossignols considered the 2017 vintage to be very fine indeed, commenting that the 2017 growing season was ‘light years easier than the 2016 season’ and that they ‘would describe it as ideal’.

2017 Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

£995 per 6 bottle case in bond

(This wine is made from two parcels of vines, with on average 40 years of age, though the oldest section was planted in 1919)

(94-96) points, Neal Martin, vinous.com
The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru matures in 50% new oak. It has an exuberant vivacious bouquet with wild strawberry, Morello cherries and crushed stone, becoming increasingly floral with aeration. There is real intensity and perhaps more brightness compared to its "Latricières" and "Chapelle" siblings. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, quite animated and tensile with a very pure and caressing finish that might be more unstated than its peers, but feels just as persistent and engaging. And the good news? This year there are twenty barrels instead of just five last year. 2022-2040

(93-95) points, Allen Meadows, burghound.com
There is just enough wood to merit mentioning on the attractively layered nose of dark currant, black raspberry and earth where additional notes of spice and floral elements are present. There is fine mid-palate density to the lilting yet tautly muscular and powerful flavors that coat the mouth with sappy dry extract while buffering the even firmer and overtly mineral-driven sneaky long finish. This is austere, compact and very serious and plenty of patience will be necessary.

Comparing price directly to other examples of Chambertin in the 2017 vintage might not be a completely logical exercise as domaines come with differing levels of rarity or market demand, but using Neal Martin’s top five Chambertin from 2017 as a guide highlights the point. All prices shown are approximates in bond.

Producer NM Score Price per 6 in bond

Domaine Armand Rousseau 96-98 £13,750

Domaine Denis Mortet 95-97 £ 4,240

Domaine Trapet 95-97 £ 1,900

Fourrier 94-96 £ 2,950

Perrot-Minot 94-96 £ 5,000

The Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin 2017 certainly ranks favourably...

Please let us know of your interest.

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All about balance: 2023 Burgundy Vintage Report

All about balance: 2023 Burgundy Vintage ReportMore juice just might be the secret to balancing the excesses of the increasingly common warmer vintages that Burgundy is witnessing. And 2023 certainly provided more juice. It was a large-yielding vintage; cellars are full of young wine gently maturing in bottle, barrel, amphora, glass bulb, vat... Half empty cellars have become a more normal sight. Low yields have been the consequence of early season crop loss due to frost and summers that have been hot and dry, causing berry size to be reduced, resulting in a dramatic absence of juice. Plentiful yields posing a different challenge to growersIn 2023, the crop was so vast that growers had to actively reduce yield in order to harvest below the maximum permitted levels of 35 to 45 hectolitres per hectare; in some instances, the reduction required was more than 50%. Comparison to yields of other recent vintages is startling. 2022 could be termed a vintage dominated by drought, so in 2023, given the rainfall, the vines overcompensated as is so often the case in such conditions.Higher juice in berries reducing excesses of alcohol and densityIn a bygone age, high yield would have carried with it a fear of dilution, a word which carried overwhelmingly negative connotations. But perhaps it depends on the starting point. Without doubt, ‘new normal’, modern Burgundy vintages are characterised by far greater density and concentration of fruit than was ever previously the case; alcohol levels approaching, or exceeding, fourteen degrees have not been out of the question. In such an era, dilution is, actually, most welcome as it can lead to wines with a far greater sense of balance. 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Given the levels of fruit concentration that we are witnessing in Burgundy and other French regions over recent vintages the topic of allowing higher yields has been mooted as this would bring greater fluidity to the wines as well as moderating the alcohol content a touch.Great sense of freshness and vibrancyThe issue is that we have not witnessed a vintage with yields this high in ‘the modern era’ – some commentators are citing that such volume has not been seen since 1982. And as Jasper Morris writes: For many producers it was the largest crop on record. We’ll take their word for it. Steen Ohman’s description of the vintage seems apt, ‘red and white 2023(s) are painting with a big brush and generous strokes. Some love this [he does] with all the positive traits of generosity.’ Steen sees it as a hedonistic vintage more than a precise vintage. 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Up until the end of August favourable warm conditions dominated with Jean-Pierre Latour, of Domaine Latour-Giraud, relating that there was intense heat between 10th and 25th August. At this point the weather turned appreciably cooler, and rain returned. September saw temperatures move dramatically up to thirty degrees and beyond, eventually culminating in a storm mid-month. This surge in heat pushed ripeness on at a pace, after a much steadier period in August. Concerns turned to rising alcohol levels, and therefore harvest was carried out rapidly across the Cote de Nuits, though it had begun at the end of August in the Cote de Beaune. With Jean-Pierre Latour, we discussed similarities with 2006, a vintage in which many whites had been picked just a little too late. This was not a mistake he was going to make in 2023. More widely, picking early in the day before temperatures grew was adopted by many estates. Vincent Lecheneaut picked between 6am and noon then stopped for the day; the harvested fruit was then held in a cold room to bring the temperature down to 5 degrees Celsius. Picking wasn’t the only significant task; sorting the fruit on reception at the cellars was hugely important in such a plentiful vintage as was finding the necessary resources to do so efficiently. Additionally, tank space was a challenge, given the requirement to ferment larger than normal quantities of juice.Lower alcohol levels than most recent vintagesOur growers reported being happy with the quality of fruit harvested and added that they were able to sort the fruit and discard anything not up to standard with ease, given the generous yield. Alcohols will be a bit lower than we have witnessed in recent hot vintages, coming in around 13%. The wines show bright acidity, in part due to the fact that the heat spikes burnt off the malic content in September, but temperatures were not so high as to reduce levels of tartaric acid, which remains importantly present in this vintage. Some growers elected to run off some juice in order to concentrate their wines a touch, which may well lead to more Bourgogne Rosé than the norm when releases are made! Bleeding off Pinot juice off the skins before extraction begins in earnest allows you to increase the skin to juice ratio and thereby the concentration. Quality-conscious growers handled such challenges well, producing perfumed Pinot, with surprising concentration, but no hint of excess or heady ripeness. Instead, they are underscored by bright acidity and reveal balanced alcohol levels.Whites and reds showing equal successThe whites also came through very well, with that comment on bright acidity signalling energy and focus. 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Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash

After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. 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Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. 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There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.

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