Establishing new, direct relationships is possibly the most enjoyable and rewarding aspects of what we do at Atlas; that feeling is intensified when the estate in question is a Burgundian domaine that we have been tracking for several vintages. It suffices to say that we are very pleased to be adding the wines of Domaine Latour-Giraud to our offering, a producer which curiously remains under-the-radar… at least for now. As Antonio Galloni pointed out in 2014, ‘I’m not sure if Latour has yet been properly recognised as one of the most thoughtful and intelligent producers in the village’; given that the village in question is Meursault, this is some high praise indeed.
A tasting at the Domaine earlier this year illustrated why exactly it has more recently caught the eye of the international critic base. We tasted elegant wines made with care and attention in the cellar, rivaling some of the best the area has to offer. They have all the typicity of great Meursault, displaying structure and concentration of fruit with effortless ease, but without the try-hard, flashier feel of some producers that might court such praise. The majority of production at Domaine Latour-Giraud is white Burgundy from their impressive range of Premier Cru and Villages vineyards, with vines between 20 and 50+ years in age. The Domaine is the largest holder of the Genevrières Premier Cru vineyard at two hectares, but also boasts Premier Cru holdings in Les Charmes, Les Perrières, Les Bouchères, Le Poruzot and Champs-Canet. The reds are equally worthy of attention, although it was the Premier Cru Clos des Chenes that most impressed, and we include the 2014 in the range below.
Today, the Domaine is managed by Jean-Pierre Latour, who first came to run the family-business in the 1990s and introduced a level of perfectionism and dedication that has seen the estate witness a ‘true cultural revolution’ according to the Review des Vins de France. Through a meticulous programme of cutting yields and by developing careful non-interventionist practices, quality at the estate has skyrocketed. Jean-Pierre creates powerful, complex and yet balanced and refined white Burgundy. He ferments free-run juice with wild yeasts, ages the Premier Cru partially in new barrels and ensures the maximum possible contact with lees. The wines are fined – but never filtered – and are bottled carefully by hand. Fastidious attention in the cellars means that individual cru will be bottled when they are ready – this can vary greatly from site-to-site and vintage-to-vintage.
Please see notes below from Victoria Stephens-Clarkson MW, Atlas’ Head of Buying, along with pricing.
2015 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£160 per 12 bottles in bond
A fine example of Domaine Latour-Giraud’s potential for high quality, Jean-Pierre’s 2015 elegant Bourgogne Chardonnay was taken from almost one hectare of vines that lie within the confines of the Meursault appellation but are declassified to Bourgogne Blanc. The lifted aromas are followed by a lemon-scented palate that is underpinned by the freshness expected from the Côte des Blancs, even in a warm year such as 2015. Drink 2017 - 2020.
2015 Meursault, Narvaux, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£180 per 6 bottles in bond
Frequently confused for a Premier Cru, Meursault Narvaux is, in fact, a single ‘Villages’ vineyard of 15 hectares that lies just above Premier Cru Genevrières. Jean-Pierre owns approximately 2/3rd of a hectare; whether it is the age of his 50 year old vines or the particularly rocky, poor soils, there is certainly an extra intensity and depth to this wine. Aromas of jasmine, lemon, tangerine and almond are met by an energetic yet elegant finish. Drink 2018 - 2022.
2015 Meursault, Les Bouchères Premier Cru, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£240 per 6 bottles in bond
Strikingly good value for a Premier cru, Les Bouchères is often overlooked for some of its better-known neighbours. Similarly to Genevrières, it shows elegant, floral notes – although perhaps is a touch more delicate. White flowers, lemon and grapefruit aromas give way to a palate that is defined by finesse of flavour and structure, as well as a noticeably long finish. It is hard to find a Premier Cru with this level of sophistication at this price. Drink 2018 - 2024.
2015 Meursault, Les Charmes Premier Cru, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£280 per 6 bottles in bond
Along with Les Charmes, Genevrières and Perrières the domaine has the trio of Premier Cru vineyards for which Meursault has really made its reputation. The 0.5 hectares of Jean-Pierre’s Les Charmes gives arguably the most exotic of aromas of all his wines, with a touch of passionfruit alongside stone fruit and citrus characters. On the palate, it is also one of the fullest in nature, with impressive depth and coverage of fruit. However, behind the power and might of a top Côte de Beaune there is a verve and elegance that compliments the richness. Drink 2018 - 2025.
2015 Puligny Montrachet, Champs Canet Premier Cru, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£290 per 6 bottles in bond
Jean-Pierre’s one Puligny Premier Cru vineyard, Champs Canet, lies just on the the border with Meursault, and runs parallel to Meursault Perrières Premier Cru. He has a small holding here 1/3rd of a hectare from which he makes a delicate, freshly-scented wine that displays classic Puligny mineral intensity. Aromas of fine citrus and nutmeg are followed by a refreshing, tautly-woven palate and delicate notes of almond and spice that linger long on the finish. A good comparison for those follow and rate great Puligny-Montrachet, with plenty of complexity to come with time in bottle. Drink 2018 - 2024.
2015 Meursault, Genevrieres Premier Cru, Cuvee des Pierre, Domaine Latour Giraud
£340 per 6 bottles in bond
Fewer than 100 cases are made of this particular cuvée of Genevrières Premier Cru. Jean-Pierre identifies the best three bunches of grapes from some of his oldest vines and vinifies them separately from his ‘standard’ Genevrières. A painstaking job indeed, but one that pays dividends given the quality in the glass. Full and lifted scents of peach, pear and lemon are swiftly followed by impressive concentration of fruit on the palate. There is excellent balance between the taut, almost tense feel to finish and rich, ripe berry flavours. This will take a couple of years to open and deliver on its huge promise. but will show well for a decade or so. Drink 2019 - 2027.
2014 Volnay, Clos des Chenes Premier Cru, Domaine Latour Giraud
£240 per 6 bottles in bond
This is a stunning example of what Premier Cru Volnay can achieve. From the 15-hectare Pinot Noir vineyard which abuts the Meursault border, this is the only red wine and 2014 in our range from Domaine Latour-Giraud. It has all the typical cherry fruit and charm of the 2014 vintage, but with serious weight and compact structure for the cellar. Painstaking care to extract only the finest of tannins is evident here, along with beautifully pure dark fruits that last long on the fine-grained, fresh finish. Offering good weight and concentration, yet never appearing austere. Drink 2019 - 2028.
Do let us know at your earliest convenience of your interest.