While the question of en primeur releasing pricing looms large, I thought I would take the opportunity of highlighting a 2015 Bordeaux release that impressed us greatly relative to its fairly humble cost. When you pitch up at an illustrious Château to assess the new vintage, it is all too easy to bypass the earlier drinking wines and instead on the Grand Vin. In the 2015 vintage, there is merit in selectively picking up some of the lesser wines for early drinking and we will highlight those when appropriate as the campaign progresses. I am offering Château Moulin-Riche 2015 at £190 per 12 bottles in bond.
Moulin-Riche is often incorrectly termed the second wine of Château Léoville-Poyferré, the Saint Julien second growth. The second wine of the estate is actually called ‘Pavillon du Léoville-Poyferré’ and Moulin-Riche is, in fact, made from a distinct 20 hectare vineyard.
The vineyard parcels that constitute Moulin-Riche lie further inland, on gravel-based soils and have been owned by the Cuvelier family since the 1920s. Unsurprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon takes the lead role in the blend, supported by both Merlot and a healthy percentage of Petit Verdot, a variety renowned for its dark fruit and spiciness.
I found the 2015 to be a compelling wine at this level. A blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, it shows an attractive, ripe dark fruit, gently mouth-filling with that spiciness of Petit Verdot coming through. It has a pleasing ripe, juicy nature with notes of cassis and damson-like stone-fruit; quite plush and textural with a purity that I do not always find in evidence in this particular wine. It will not require extended ageing and I would think it will be already drinking well a year after shipment in 2018/2019. My scribbled note from our tasting at Léoville-Poyferré concluded with the line ‘a great early drinker if sub £200 per 12 on release’…
2015 Château Moulin-Riche
£190 per 12 in bond
89-91 points, Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
The 2015 Moulin Riche is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 20 hectares of vine located further inland than those of Léoville-Poyferré. It has a sumptuous, quite rich bouquet with Morello cherry, raspberry coulis and mineral scents. Didier Cuvelier has managed to find impressive purity here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, a robust and forthright Moulin Riche with plenty of depth and "guts" towards the finish, even if it does not quite deliver the finesse of other Saine Julien wines. Afford this 5-6 years in bottle. This should turn out to be a "hearty" wine.
89-92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
The 2015 Moulin Riche is dark, plummy and absolutely delicious. The more fruit-driven, supple side of Saint-Julien comes through in an attractive, forward wine endowed with terrific depth and plenty of personality. The 2015 is not a big wine, rather it is built on a core of juiciness, with sweet floral and spices notes that round things out nicely. Best of all, the 2015 should drink well early.
Please let us know if of interest.