2015 Barolo, Rüncot Riserva, Elio Grasso
"Absolutely gorgeous" - Antonio Galloni
£320 per 3 bottle case in bond
‘Grasso fans will not want to miss the 2015 Riserva Rüncot' - Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2021
The first vintage for Grasso’s Riserva ‘Rüncot’ was 1995. Since then, quality has edged ever higher, perhaps on account of the run of recent vintages witnessed in Piemonte, but without doubt, it is in part due to Gianluca Grasso’s winemaking skill. This Monforte d’Alba-based, family-run estate has holdings in two Barolo Cru, namely Ginestra and Gavarini. It is in the latter that the plot named ‘Rüncot’ lies. The Rüncot Riserva is only made in the best vintages, and it comes from 30-year-old vines on a steep, south facing slope which stretches to 350 metres in altitude. These vines grow on a clay soil over a base of limestone.
Rüncot is often a wine that surprises with age and has a track record of delivering in warmer vintages such as 2015, 2007 and 2000. I recall reading Antonio Galloni’s review of the 2000 Rüncot as it was released, in which he suggested that ‘the too-sweet fruit and excessive use of new oak threaten to throw it off balance’ scoring it a mere 89 points. Tasting five years later, he revised his score to 96 points when he tasted from a magnum, describing it as ‘a beautifully layered, perfumed Barolo graced with exquisite elegance and inner perfume. An explosive finish rounds things out in style. This is a stunning, breathtaking wine of the highest level.’ This is a huge shift in a scoring system that seldom extends beyond a range of ten or eleven points, but it illustrates how tricky it can be to read Rüncot at an early stage – interestingly, Galloni comments from experience in his 2015 note that Rüncot only starts to drink well at around ten years of age, a point with which I fully concur, though I think he should adjust his drink dates to reflect the comment! The 2008, which I tasted recently, has entered a real sweet spot, and is showing superbly, certainly ahead of my early expectations.
The recent run of reviews for Rüncot haven’t broken step – all earning considerable praise from Antonio Galloni on Vinous and from Monica Larner on The Wine Advocate. Please see the table below.
Vintage AG ML
2015 96 n/a
2013 97+ 100
2010 96+ 98
2008 95+ 97
Monica Larner seems very taken with recent vintages commenting when she awarded a perfect score to the 2013 on the ‘crowning achievement for the hard-working and passionate Grasso family, led by father Elio and son Gianluca’. Subsequently, the price for the 2013 shot up to over £550 per 3 bottle case in bond! We will be interested to read her comments on the 2015 in due course.
We are offering the 2015 today at £320 per 3 bottle case in bond.
2015 Barolo, Rüncot Riserva, Elio Grasso
£320 per 3 bottle case in bond
96 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, February 2022
The 2015 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is absolutely gorgeous. That much is clear. The only thing the 2015 needs is time. Time in the glass brings out the wine's inner perfume and bright, red-toned fruit. Blood orange, spice, mint, licorice and dried flowers linger on the persistent, sculpted finish. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle any time soon, as the Rüncot only starts to drink well at around age ten, at a minimum. There is certainly plenty to look forward to. Drink 2025-2040.
And my note :
The aromas exude ripe dark fruits, and fragrant red fruit hints too, all framed by a touch of toast from the barrique as is normal at this stage. With coaxing and air, the palate reveals a wealth of fruit with liquorice and spice notes developing. This is an exuberant young Barolo, but what impresses is how the freshness asserts on the finish, with notes of pomegranate and juicy red fruits coming to the fore as well as fine, structural tannins that underline this wine is in its infancy. The touch of toast on the nose is not echoed on the palate, suggesting that Gianluca Grasso’s decision to make a Riserva in 2015 is well founded, as the fruit has the substance to warrant the extended ageing. Very sleek in nature, yet retaining poise, the 2015 follows in a fine run for this Riserva and captures the best attributes of the vintage. Drink 2030-2042 (SL).
Understandably, volumes are limited so please let us know of your interest.
All the best,
Simon
