At Atlas we have been keen to focus on Australia, although to date you will have noted that we have been tentative with our purchasing, largely due to the fact that we favour precision over headiness and look for indivudality as well as freshness, poise and potential longevity in any prospective candidates. We know Australia has plenty to offer –– it just takes time to uncover wines that truly impress.
Following Vicki’s short trip of earlier this year, we have a number of target estates on our radar; samples have been either tasted or are the process of being shipped, the negotiation work is in progress. These are mostly small producers, cooler climate styles and certainly names that you are unlikely to have heard of…at least names you will not have heard of yet.
I am pleased to write that, following a great tasting at Atlas, we have secured the UK exclusivity for upcoming producer Toby Bekkers based in the McLaren Vale. Toby is described as something of a viticultural guru; more than any other role, he acts as a consultant to other producers by advising them on their vineyards, what and where to plant. He has championed biodynamic and organic production in Australia, commenting that he believes in the potential, but avoids the fundamentalism that normally accompanies these approaches. Aside from his role as a consultant, Toby has developed two of his own wines in the McLaren Vale, a highly sought-after Grenache and a simply stunning Syrah, both of which are produced in truly minuscule quantities and are destined to sell out directly on a newsletter allocation system. We count ourselves very fortunate – not only to have secured the UK exclusivity for his wines – but also to have persuaded him to allot a little stock to the UK in the first place!
While Toby has been working in the wine industry for over 20 years, this is only the second vintage for his flagship Syrah. I was seriously impressed by just how well Toby's wine showed at our office tasting. I first commented to Vicki that it was definitely a Syrah as opposed to a Shiraz. A number of Australian producers have taken to using the French name for the variety in place of the more common ‘Shiraz’ as a way of conveying a less ‘full-on’ style, thereby emphasising the elegance and finesse. This is deep and youthful in the glass with aromas of fresh blackberry, adding to fragrant notes of blueberry and a floral, violet-like lift. It is certainly kaleidoscopic in character with exotic spice, black pepper, mocha amongst other nuances. On the palate, there is a glorious density, yet a lightness of touch, with the emphasis on pure, refined juicy, ripe fruit. Lively, focused with a bright note of acidity carrying long into the finish, I am fascinated by this wine, particularly as this is just his second vintage, and I have little doubt that this will age incredibly well. It can be enjoyed now but will be all the better for three or for years bottle age . It may still be fascinating in 2025……I hope to find out!
I could see exactly where the other critics were coming from when they commented as follows. I should add that they are not alone in their admiration; the wine has been written up well by numerous critics including Jancis Robinson’s reviewer Richard Hemming as well as Matthew Jukes. Some have tried to bring the wine to the UK, but luckily we got there first.
2012 McLaren Vale Syrah, Toby Bekkers at £295 per 6 bottle case in bond
Very deep purple-black in color, the 2012 Syrah has a wonderfully expressive nose of crushed blueberries and blackberry preserves with underlying notes of violets, bouquet garni, star anise, chocolate box and cardamom. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and yet intensely fruited in the mouth, it offers a lovely foundation of very fine tannins and refreshing acidity before finishing long and layered. Drink it 2015 to 2025+.
97 points, James Halliday, The Wine Companion 2015
Please note that James Halliday rates Toby Bekkers as a 5-star producer and did from the outset.
Deep, dense colour; a spectacularly powerful wine proclaiming its place of origin and variety with equal emphasis; blackberry, plum, licorice, 70% cacao dark chocolate, earth, tar and spice, oak and tannins all claiming a place on the palate. 97 pts.
So there you go; a very individual, beautifully poised Syrah. I should stress that stock is very limited – the vineyards from which it is taken only amass 5.5 hectares and there is just 200 cases of this superb Syrah produced in total…This is after all the first time that Toby has exported his wine as it is avidly followed on the home market.