As Simon comments, building relationships in Burgundy takes time – about that there is little doubt. Winning an allocation from a grower with a strong reputation and a regular clientele is nigh on impossible; it happens occasionally but it takes plenty of hard work and, frankly, you are waiting for an existing relationship to turn sour to get your chance. However, change is occurring at number of domaines as responsibility and ownership pass from one generation to the next. This in itself provides opportunity to secure supply as a domaine, that may have languished off the radar, can suddenly move towards centre stage with a sharp increase in quality.
I tasted the wines of Taupenot-Merme a long, long time ago when they were not so widely known and at a stage when they were not hitting the qualitative peaks that they are today. The domaine today is in the hands of the seventh generation, Romain Taupenot and his sister Virginie. After repeated telephone calls and requests for a meeting over an eight month period, our buyer, Vicki, finally had the chance to visit the domaine to taste and discuss. I am pleased to say this has resulted in this offer of the 2012 vintage - something of a coup you might say.
Domaine Taupenot-Merme has always owned some very fine and significant parcels of vineyard through out the Côte de Nuits. Their 13.5 hectares of vineyard cover the villages of Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-St.Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-St.Georges. Additionally, they have some holdings in the Côte de Beaune in Corton, St.Romain and Auxey-Duresses, all of which came from a different arm of the family. Romain describes himself as a ‘vigneron paresseux’ or a ‘lazy vigneron’ – a modest and self-deprecating comment perhaps, but it does hint at his policy of minimal intervention. All of their vineyards are organically cultivated; it is clear that Romain believes that great wine is made in the vineyard as his approach centres on allowing the vineyard to express its true character. The winemaking is therefore unobtrusive, with some control applied to fermentation temperature in order to preserve Pinot’s aromatics and the use of oak is measured. Despite his insistence on a laid-back approach, he comes across as a grower intent on raising the bar and elevating the quality of his wines and the standing of his domaine.
I am impressed by the combination of purity and concentration that I find in the Taupenot wines today. They possess beautifully scented, expressive aromatics and a core of plush, textural fruit. It is evident that Romain has already improved the domaine’s reputation and 2012 is, along with 2010, perhaps his finest vintage to date. There are a couple of stand-outs in the list below; the broad-shouldered, concentrated Pruliers, the floral, textural Chambolle and of course, the stunning Charmes, which balances volume with poise and precision. I include the notes published by Antonio Galloni in January 2014. Scores aside, I like the descriptive nature of Galloni’s notes and, as a consequence, in many instances he is becoming our go-to critic such references. We have added our suggested drinking windows as a guide.
£560 per six bottle case in bond
(93-95) Antonio Galloni
Another highlight in this range, 2012 Charmes-Chambertin is beautifully lifted and savory. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, anise and cinnamon waft from the glass effortlessly. The 2012 is sexy, racy and impeccably polished from start to finish. The tannins are a bit firm today, but there is more than enough depth in the fruit to provide balance. All the 2012 needs is time. Drinking from 2020 to 2032
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